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It won't yield less oil, the point of enlarging it is so there isn't excess pressure in the CC. And you're right, a quart of oil leaving is still a quart leaving, but no CC setup will fix that, it's an engine issue.
you can drain it back, since youre not always on boost
I know people do it and have no problem, but the stuff I drain out of mine (which is almost no oil, its all vapor and condensation) is nasty looking. Maybe that part would get pulled out if I had it running to the intake but my -10 line on the back of the valve cover builds up almost no actual oil volume. I could check mine once a year and be fine.
Draining it back may yield the same "contaminated" result I'm currently experiencing, and what Dallas mentioned, I think without having all your separators. With the whole V1 setup STM had I had almost no oil in the can after a race, same Curt Brown engine.
However the double check valve's created "too much" vac and created this whistling noise and would cause the engine to go rich suddenly and randomly. So STM changed their story and now say to do the pic I posted up before. If I'm pulling moisture ridden vapors in that quanity, the intake pipe has to be producing some intense suction.
one thing i forgot to mention is i used to have an 'oil drain'under my intake hose. the pressure there gets pretty high that i once left a trail of oil on the course before i plugged it. i thought the oil would only come out when parked. Now with my new setup i have a collection container under my intake hose and I'm only getting clear water (and would probably opt to take out the container later)
I can honestly say I gained a bunch of HP back with this
Draining it back may yield the same "contaminated" result I'm currently experiencing, and what Dallas mentioned, I think without having all your separators.
I disagree, because there is no oil collection/baffling(cooling) in the process, where the water separates from the air. it would be like stock setup where the vapors are always hot and flowing
I've never had luck with separator systems. In all the cars I've put them on they always drain condensation back to the pan, even the ones heated by coolant.
Personally, I'd rather just check the oil level and top it off than worry about the oil being degraded quicker by condensation and blowby. Oil is cheap and engines are expensive.
^I agree completely. Buddy had one in his slowbaru and I was never a fan but that thing ate engines like every other week so hard to say if it was purposeful or not. The Buschur catch can is routed back through the dipstick, gross. I have zero interest in that crap going back into my motor. Mostly condensation and ethanol with some gross oily sludge, no thanks. Ill drain and just keep tabs on the oil level thank you very much.
I'm using the green oil (dino blend) and its still green and thick. I have none of the milky layer i saw thru the oil filler cap once. I am monitoring that. I do lose oil a bit but definitely a whole lot less. I may have pressure leak on the bottom of my dipstick (thats new) ... i think this is one reason to go bigger on the ports, Balrok
^I agree completely. Buddy had one in his slowbaru and I was never a fan but that thing ate engines like every other week so hard to say if it was purposeful or not. The Buschur catch can is routed back through the dipstick, gross. I have zero interest in that crap going back into my motor. Mostly condensation and ethanol with some gross oily sludge, no thanks. Ill drain and just keep tabs on the oil level thank you very much.
how BIG was that Buschur CATCH can?
as i was saying, the key is make sure the condensation does not happen in your catch can. keeping the components small and hot will ensure most if not all air vapors make it to the intake (hot, yes - thats a different issue).
btw I used to have a clear fuel filter on my dipstick CC vent lines and I never saw water there so I'm not sure what going on with yours. Thats pure hot oil coming out from there because its from the bottom
One thing I still don't understand is why changing to rear port to a larger port would yeild more "air" and less "oil" in the catch can. A hole is a hole, if the intake pipe is indeed producing that much pulling effect then it won't change the result of a quart+ of oil leaving the engine. The other issue that remains is the oil condition. When my setup was rather simple and oem, rear port to oem check valve/IM, side port "hanging out", my DOM50 would still have a clear/red hue to it after a weekend. Now it's black and moisture ridden after a couple sessions.
Bigger ports/lines means less pressure and therefore less oil.
I had a client with a corvette. It has a built LS3 making 600whp NA on E85. Two 6an lines off of driver side valvecover and one 6an off the passenger valvecover. Above 6500rpm it would literally spew oil out the catchcan. Keeping it below 6500 it would fill the catch can in 2-3 laps.
So, we built a new catch can, modded the existing ports on the valve covers to run 8an line instead of 6an, and ran two 10an lines out of the valley. It can now rev to 7500 rpm without issue and goes a full 30 minute session hot lapping it and get barely an ounce or two of oil in the catch can. Being able to rev it higher it also made another 50whp.
Bigger ports/lines means less pressure and therefore less oil.
you're also pushing less oil thats already clinging on the walls of the hoses. the more vertical the hoses are closer to the port would definitely help
Jun 27, 2019 | 09:55 AM
