That might be worth the try! I will try to take off that rear vertical bolt tonight. I had used cordless last night and it was not up to the task (it did take out front horizontal one though). I have about 600 lb air gun, but have to get right size attachment for it, since it is a bit bigger than the rest of my tools.
Now, ball joint on in the front didn't want to budge also with the cordless. Nut came off, but bolt didn't move at all. I sprayed all of them with PB for another try tonight. I have never taken ball joint one off before. That bolt should just come out, right? I am guessing I will have to use those forks to pry it down, but those have tendencies to damage the boot. Are those serviceable? Is there an OEM replacement for that or it is the same as the rear aftermarket stiffer bushing option only?

Also, I am not sure where you are located. Could you PM me your address?

Thanks!

 

A good soak with penetrant will certainly help your case. See what progress you can make tonight as far as getting the bolts off. The vertical one really shouldnt fight you. In the case of the CT9A the horizontal one is the one that always seizes. As for the ball joint can you even get the bolt to spin with a breaker bar? If the BJ has never been popped off them sometimes they can fight you coming off. You could use a pickle fork but those almost always rip the boot. I have a tool, think its just called a ball joint separator and it's worked wonders to pop off the BJ without tearing the boot.

If you can get the arm off yourself and swing down that would be the easiest. We could try welding on the car but that would make things more difficult. Or we could always get it off at my place; my car is back on the lift on account of Sunday but we can move her over.

I'll pm you my address

 

New summer project: pull head and see what kind of damage was done when my timing belt decided it was time for a timing belt change. Felt like a thunk and the engine shut down immediately. Good times.

 

Bummer dude. I had a DSM toss a timing belt because the balance shaft belt was never changed (before I owned it) and took out the main belt. I oddly bent only 5 valves. But at least its typically much more rebuildable the windowing a block or something. Bright side something something

 

The thing that pisses me off the most is that I was planning a built 2.4LR and head to match later this year and this completely jacks up my timeline and parts collection. I had ER do my last timing belt job years ago and I know they wouldn't do a **** job. Things happen, it is what it is. After I figure out the damage I'll ship the head off to Curt Brown for the build and hopefully be able to convince my wife to just let me go ahead and do the block now. Will be easier if there's damaged pistons.

I am SO glad I didn't window the block lol. First thing I did was look under the car for oil. Once I swap in the 2.4 I'm gonna teach myself how to build a block and save the 4G63 for some kind of project car down the line. Would be slightly hard with a window.

 

ive dveloped what appears to be a massive boost leak - way louder and the car won't go past 5k rpm at WOT in 2nd. i just did the egr block off, which requried the removal of the UICP - i rechecked it and all seems fine visually. Aside from that, I'm going to check the LICP & intercooler connections.

Any other suggestions for where to check?

 

Boost leak test.....?

 

Always a boost leak test. Visual inspection almost never finds much

 

luckily was able to find it - UICP that connected the intercooler to hose. i guess after 6 years it decided to blow off

 

u guys ever put temp monitoring into your differentials? im looking to do this to both diffs and trying to decide if i just replace the drain plugs with temp probes or wether i need to drill and tap new holes for the temp probes.

Basically trying to work out how important the diff magnets are really. i change diff oil like every 2 meetings anyway

 

Magnets are very important since there is no filter.

 

Drill through the magnet?

 

this is what im thinking and why im reluctant to remove it.

I even looked for magnetic temp probes but they dont exist hahah

 

put the probe in the fill hole

 

It's not submerged and won't work well there.

On the tcase, you can put the probe in the little bolt on access panel on the bottom.

On the rear diff, find a good spot to drill and tap the bottom of the rear cover.