Its a really quick and easy check. If you adjust the rod at the pedal too long is when you run into issues which would be trying to raise the pedal. If you go too far it leads to inconsistent pedal engagement point and pedal pump-up. If you dont have that, then its probably adjusted fine.

But that valve will probably prevent motive from doing too much bleeding. Might be wrong, but would be easy to test by slightly pressing in the pedal to get off that valve with the motiv pressurized and clutch bleed open.

 

u put the car in gear with the car turned off. push the pedal all the way down and get somebody to roll the car forward. you lift the clutch pedal till the car engages into gear and cant be pushed anymore. you should have around 1cm of travel left in the pedal after this point.

 

nope not possible. ud need like 5mm of crank walk to do that and that would basically mean ur thrust washers no longer exist lol.

Most likely cause of this is when you get dirt or a small stone etc caught in there.

 

Seeing as it's happened twice now I don't think it's a stone or debris. You only need about .040" (about 1mm) to wipe out the crank sensor with the trigger wheel, I've measured. My thrust measured at .005" so I'm still not quite sure what's going on. Won't know for a while either unfortunately.

 

I ordered parts for all four endlinks from McMaster racing.

If I do the front links, I might also re-drill the stock FSB. I've never played with FSB adjustments before, so it might be nice to adjust it a bit and see what happens.

 

i had a small nick in my trigger plate which was wiping out sensors for me. replaced the plate and never had an issue since. maybe try that?

 

He replaced the sensor but it still got taken out in short order. Strange situation screams crankwalk yet the measurements suggest otherwise. Sucky situation...

 

Its not an OEM crank right? Making me wonder if its miss-machined or something.

 

Don't want to speak on his behalf bc seems I misquote in misinform but IIRC hes on OEM 88mm crank. Also, what strikes me as odd was if it were machined wrong youd think it would fail immediately and in this case I think it worked until it didnt then replaced and failed again in short order. To me that means something changed.

 

Out of curiosity, why do all four links? Also, Cusco makes brackets that allow for adjustment if you decide you don't wanna try to drill through the bar.

 

Eric is on the money. Original stock crank. Replaced the sensor and trigger wheel. Got a full day on track of it running great before it bit the dust with no warning.

 

WTF? I'm super curious as to what the cause could be. Belt moving? I doubt it, but....
There's only so many things that can cause this. Good luck, dude. Wish I knew enough to help.

 

Most of the nuts and bolts come in packs of 5-10 from McMaster. It was only about $20 extra to get the rod ends to do the front links too. I probably won't install them, but now I've got the parts on hand if I ever need them.

 

I imagine I'll find a smoking gun when I get the chance to pull the motor back apart but for now the car is taking a backseat while I try to find a new job and get moved into a new place which will hopefully have enough room to work on the car.

 

Makes sense. I was actually wondering the reason for putting links on both ends of each bar.

Frustrating. Good luck on everything. It'll all workout
I just stayed a new job this week...a little stressful. Career change...