Sup w/them 2024 Summer Projects?
#1848
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Balrok
Missing the AK lol. Nevermind the brake dust and chemicals you absorb into your skin daily, Corona must be worse lol.
#1849
Evolved Member
#1852
Evolved Member
it depends on the tools you have. I have access to a lift and a small crane so it is ok. Having said that, last evo I restored I deliberately did everything on the floor, no lifts.. put the complete engine + trans + TC on a pallet, and just lifted the nose of the car with the crane. Slid the engine underneath and then lowered the car onto the jacks. Then, just hooked the engine and lifted it into position..
I always found it easier to mount the TC with the engine out, than doing it with the engine in.
Fun fact.. Rally teams do not use lifts. They do all the work with the cars on the ground, on those high jackstands.. That way they train for when they have to service the car in the field
I always found it easier to mount the TC with the engine out, than doing it with the engine in.
Fun fact.. Rally teams do not use lifts. They do all the work with the cars on the ground, on those high jackstands.. That way they train for when they have to service the car in the field
#1857
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (2)
Motor out the bottom while connected to the trans is way easier. Coming out the top sucks but is the only option most of the time.
With the trans sitting underneath the driver side frame rail and the accessory drive so close to the passenger frame rail there's not a whole ton of room to maneuver the engine up and out. You for sure want a load leveler for it.
Going out the bottom is a breeze if you're able to.
With the trans sitting underneath the driver side frame rail and the accessory drive so close to the passenger frame rail there's not a whole ton of room to maneuver the engine up and out. You for sure want a load leveler for it.
Going out the bottom is a breeze if you're able to.
#1858
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (4)
Rear:
18x10 +38 RPF-1
265/35R18 RE-71Rs
-2.5 camber, zero toe or slight toe out for AutoX
Mild roll to inner fender lip (mine was about 45 degrees bent upward)
5mm spacer (could reduce to 3mm if your tires are narrow enough)
Extended studs / open lugs to get enough thread engagement with the 5mm spacer
Shave ABS mounting bracket flush with control arm to be safe
Front:
18x10 +38 RPF-1
18mm spacer (18-20mm is the sweet spot with this wheel)
-3.2 camber
If you have added caster at the top of the strut, you will need offset LCA bushings to move the wheel forward
Worked great with fender liners installed and everything. It starts to feel like threading the needle when you're adjusting offset by millimeters and camber by fractions of a degree to make it work, but it fits.
Jumping up to taller/wider 275/35R18s has been a headache, but the 265s fit just fine.
I ran 255 RE-71Rs and 265 RE-71Rs back to back one AutoX season. The 265s did have marginally more grip, but they were also ever so slightly slower in a straight line due to the additional height. Top speed was slightly higher, though, so it worked out on most courses. I was shocked that I could actually notice the difference, however small, between the two setups.
#1859
Evolved Member
iTrader: (15)
Annnnnnnnnnd I'm broke ....now...again...as well ...lol.
DailyEng, 3 stage, ARA1 tanks and breather, IRP remote with oil cooler ports. Unfortunately we can't use the built in air-oil separator because it comes into the downpipe right at the bolt area by 2 inches. But with the proper tank it shouldn't be an issue they said.
DailyEng, 3 stage, ARA1 tanks and breather, IRP remote with oil cooler ports. Unfortunately we can't use the built in air-oil separator because it comes into the downpipe right at the bolt area by 2 inches. But with the proper tank it shouldn't be an issue they said.
The following 3 users liked this post by Balrok:
#1860
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
Annnnnnnnnnd I'm broke ....now...again...as well ...lol.
DailyEng, 3 stage, ARA1 tanks and breather, IRP remote with oil cooler ports. Unfortunately we can't use the built in air-oil separator because it comes into the downpipe right at the bolt area by 2 inches. But with the proper tank it shouldn't be an issue they said.
DailyEng, 3 stage, ARA1 tanks and breather, IRP remote with oil cooler ports. Unfortunately we can't use the built in air-oil separator because it comes into the downpipe right at the bolt area by 2 inches. But with the proper tank it shouldn't be an issue they said.