Sup w/them 2024 Summer Projects?
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kikiturbo (Jul 20, 2020)
Jul 20, 2020, 02:32 PM
#1862
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
That's big move man. Congrats (I guess) lol
Have fun plumbing it. I enjoy installs like that.
Have fun plumbing it. I enjoy installs like that.
Jul 20, 2020, 06:46 PM
#1864
18x10 with up to 265s is relatively easy on stock control arms. You don't even need to pull the rears if your camber is right. I ran this setup for several years without any rubbing. My setup was:
Rear:
18x10 +38 RPF-1
265/35R18 RE-71Rs
-2.5 camber, zero toe or slight toe out for AutoX
Mild roll to inner fender lip (mine was about 45 degrees bent upward)
5mm spacer (could reduce to 3mm if your tires are narrow enough)
Extended studs / open lugs to get enough thread engagement with the 5mm spacer
Shave ABS mounting bracket flush with control arm to be safe
Front:
18x10 +38 RPF-1
18mm spacer (18-20mm is the sweet spot with this wheel)
-3.2 camber
If you have added caster at the top of the strut, you will need offset LCA bushings to move the wheel forward
Worked great with fender liners installed and everything. It starts to feel like threading the needle when you're adjusting offset by millimeters and camber by fractions of a degree to make it work, but it fits.
Jumping up to taller/wider 275/35R18s has been a headache, but the 265s fit just fine.
I ran 255 RE-71Rs and 265 RE-71Rs back to back one AutoX season. The 265s did have marginally more grip, but they were also ever so slightly slower in a straight line due to the additional height. Top speed was slightly higher, though, so it worked out on most courses. I was shocked that I could actually notice the difference, however small, between the two setups.
Rear:
18x10 +38 RPF-1
265/35R18 RE-71Rs
-2.5 camber, zero toe or slight toe out for AutoX
Mild roll to inner fender lip (mine was about 45 degrees bent upward)
5mm spacer (could reduce to 3mm if your tires are narrow enough)
Extended studs / open lugs to get enough thread engagement with the 5mm spacer
Shave ABS mounting bracket flush with control arm to be safe
Front:
18x10 +38 RPF-1
18mm spacer (18-20mm is the sweet spot with this wheel)
-3.2 camber
If you have added caster at the top of the strut, you will need offset LCA bushings to move the wheel forward
Worked great with fender liners installed and everything. It starts to feel like threading the needle when you're adjusting offset by millimeters and camber by fractions of a degree to make it work, but it fits.
Jumping up to taller/wider 275/35R18s has been a headache, but the 265s fit just fine.
I ran 255 RE-71Rs and 265 RE-71Rs back to back one AutoX season. The 265s did have marginally more grip, but they were also ever so slightly slower in a straight line due to the additional height. Top speed was slightly higher, though, so it worked out on most courses. I was shocked that I could actually notice the difference, however small, between the two setups.
Jul 21, 2020, 08:58 AM
#1865
Ya whole lot of fun lol. Just wrapping my engineering head around the concept took a minute. It'll only be another 1k in hose and fittings haha. I like to use Fragola on everything. As much as stainless hose is a standard, is there really nothing else up to the task?
Jul 21, 2020, 09:08 AM
#1866
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
I hate stainless line, I only use it in spots wear I'm worried about it being abraided. I only use fragola for crank case breathers. Dry sump, transmission and fuel lines I use XRP. Its more expensive, but they also have lightweight hose options and the fittings are much higher quality and lighter weight. Also, even though most hose is "rated" for 28in/hg vacuum, I've seen fragola hose collapse. XRP has speciifc hose for using on the suction side of the dry sump pump, and it also offers a super tight bend radius capability.
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Construct (Jul 21, 2020)
Jul 21, 2020, 10:05 AM
#1867
That extra 13mm of wheel width is starting to get into diminishing returns territory. I always prefer the feel of slightly stretched tires. Not sure if it's actually faster, but that extra tightness in the steering and handling feel helps inspire confidence.
Jul 21, 2020, 11:16 AM
#1868
EvoM Community Team Leader
If your competing check the rule book. They might require a specific type of line.
Jul 21, 2020, 01:03 PM
#1869
I hate stainless line, I only use it in spots wear I'm worried about it being abraided. I only use fragola for crank case breathers. Dry sump, transmission and fuel lines I use XRP. Its more expensive, but they also have lightweight hose options and the fittings are much higher quality and lighter weight. Also, even though most hose is "rated" for 28in/hg vacuum, I've seen fragola hose collapse. XRP has speciifc hose for using on the suction side of the dry sump pump, and it also offers a super tight bend radius capability.
Jul 21, 2020, 01:09 PM
#1870
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Ya I looked, "metal or braided" if it's anywhere inside the car...sigh. I like Driv's concept of using alum tubing to save money/weight but the fear of bumping/crimping/dropping something on it would steer me away. XRP isn't carried by my usual guys but I'll take a look there as well.
Jul 21, 2020, 01:26 PM
#1871
EvoM Community Team Leader
Depending on the rules, I think inside the trunk is still considered inside the car. Maybe not if you install a bulkhead, but again you gotta check the rules.
Or maybe you are just talking about running hard lines under the car, in which case NVM.
Or maybe you are just talking about running hard lines under the car, in which case NVM.
Jul 21, 2020, 01:32 PM
#1872
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Biggiesacks
Depending on the rules, I think inside the trunk is still considered inside the car. Maybe not if you install a bulkhead, but again you gotta check the rules.
Or maybe you are just talking about running hard lines under the car, in which case NVM.
Or maybe you are just talking about running hard lines under the car, in which case NVM.
Jul 21, 2020, 01:43 PM
#1873
EvoM Community Team Leader
Thats cool, just because you haven't seen it doesn't mean it doesn't exist. NHRA rules require a bulkhead for a lot of things in the trunk. All I said was check the rules, wouldn't expect that to be a controversial bit of advice.
Jul 21, 2020, 02:06 PM
#1874
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Biggiesacks
Thats cool, just because you haven't seen it doesn't mean it doesn't exist. NHRA rules require a bulkhead for a lot of things in the trunk. All I said was check the rules, wouldn't expect that to be a controversial bit of advice.
They typically require a firewall (.032 aluminum, good joke) for batteries placed in the rear but make no mention of anything else.
Jul 21, 2020, 02:07 PM
#1875
Really the book is a guideline, it all comes down to the official/inspector at the time. I've had some pass me when my fire bottle has been 3 years past due, loose objects scattered throughout, etc and they find just one thing like your window net needs tightened - but they pass you anyway. In other cases I've been ripped apart for stupid things like no safetywire on belt clamps to inspection holes need to be 2 inches from the weld yours is 1 inch and all sorts of craziness that goes beyond the "exact" wording. In this case best to give them no pause esp if you get an old schooler that believes your safety requires an SS line. So we will comply, and likely stick a fire nozzle at it too.
What's the best cutter/tools for the SS?
What's the best cutter/tools for the SS?