Sup w/them 2024 Summer Projects?
Jul 21, 2020, 02:14 PM
#1876
EvoM Community Team Leader
Jul 21, 2020, 02:29 PM
#1877
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Balrok
Really the book is a guideline, it all comes down to the official/inspector at the time. I've had some pass me when my fire bottle has been 3 years past due, loose objects scattered throughout, etc and they find just one thing like your window net needs tightened - but they pass you anyway. In other cases I've been ripped apart for stupid things like no safetywire on belt clamps to inspection holes need to be 2 inches from the weld yours is 1 inch and all sorts of craziness that goes beyond the "exact" wording. In this case best to give them no pause esp if you get an old schooler that believes your safety requires an SS line. So we will comply, and likely stick a fire nozzle at it too.
What's the best cutter/tools for the SS?
What's the best cutter/tools for the SS?
Jul 22, 2020, 05:53 PM
#1879
I replaced that same boost last year some time. I just ordered the OEM boot kit which comes with a 2 part grease and the clamps. But its like $70-80 IIRC.
I would love to pull the axles and replace all the old grease with something more durable for race conditions though.
I would love to pull the axles and replace all the old grease with something more durable for race conditions though.
Jul 23, 2020, 09:31 AM
#1881
Found some CV boots at work. Cheap ones made by Empi. $10 a piece. Pretty sure the part number is 86-2377C (part number verified to be correct). The size is nearly identical to the factory boots.
Last edited by Lumpy Sticks; Jul 23, 2020 at 11:52 AM.
Jul 23, 2020, 09:37 AM
#1882
What about oil and clamp? A slim clamp is definitely preferred. The replacement OEM clamp does fit really well and easy to install.
Jul 23, 2020, 10:43 AM
#1883
How do they feel compared to the OEM boot? The OEM is pretty stout and I've seen some non-OEM boots on other cars were pretty flimsy in comparison but would be cool if you found something even near OEM quality.
What about oil and clamp? A slim clamp is definitely preferred. The replacement OEM clamp does fit really well and easy to install.
What about oil and clamp? A slim clamp is definitely preferred. The replacement OEM clamp does fit really well and easy to install.
Grease, I am still up in the air about. Thinking about Neo Synthetics CC1 but it may be overkill. Might just go with their standard grease (CV500) since its half the price. Clamps I am going to use are this style. Very universal but you need a special crimping tool.
Jul 26, 2020, 09:10 AM
#1886
Getting back to the fuel pump discussion a few posts up...
Now that we have more E85 in my area, I am planning to add a flex fuel setup with FIC 1650s and a pump upgrade. Is there anything to keep in mind unique to a track car when picking a fuel pump setup? For example, is a Hobbs switch setup reliable on a track car? I've read about melting relays and other issues when running the larger single in-tank pumps at full voltage all the time, but isn't that basically what is going to happen when running a 20 minute session on track, even with a hi/low voltage setup (since you are WOT so much of the time)? When does a double pumper make sense vs a larger single in-tank pump?
I want to do this right and not lose a motor because I skimped on the fuel setup. Thanks!
Now that we have more E85 in my area, I am planning to add a flex fuel setup with FIC 1650s and a pump upgrade. Is there anything to keep in mind unique to a track car when picking a fuel pump setup? For example, is a Hobbs switch setup reliable on a track car? I've read about melting relays and other issues when running the larger single in-tank pumps at full voltage all the time, but isn't that basically what is going to happen when running a 20 minute session on track, even with a hi/low voltage setup (since you are WOT so much of the time)? When does a double pumper make sense vs a larger single in-tank pump?
I want to do this right and not lose a motor because I skimped on the fuel setup. Thanks!
Jul 26, 2020, 10:00 AM
#1887
EvoM Community Team Leader
stick to the 80% rule and you should never have anything melting. That is size your wires, relays etc. so that the max current they will see is only 80% of their rated capacity.
Jul 26, 2020, 10:29 AM
#1888
Getting back to the fuel pump discussion a few posts up...
Now that we have more E85 in my area, I am planning to add a flex fuel setup with FIC 1650s and a pump upgrade. Is there anything to keep in mind unique to a track car when picking a fuel pump setup? For example, is a Hobbs switch setup reliable on a track car? I've read about melting relays and other issues when running the larger single in-tank pumps at full voltage all the time, but isn't that basically what is going to happen when running a 20 minute session on track, even with a hi/low voltage setup (since you are WOT so much of the time)? When does a double pumper make sense vs a larger single in-tank pump?
I want to do this right and not lose a motor because I skimped on the fuel setup. Thanks!
Now that we have more E85 in my area, I am planning to add a flex fuel setup with FIC 1650s and a pump upgrade. Is there anything to keep in mind unique to a track car when picking a fuel pump setup? For example, is a Hobbs switch setup reliable on a track car? I've read about melting relays and other issues when running the larger single in-tank pumps at full voltage all the time, but isn't that basically what is going to happen when running a 20 minute session on track, even with a hi/low voltage setup (since you are WOT so much of the time)? When does a double pumper make sense vs a larger single in-tank pump?
I want to do this right and not lose a motor because I skimped on the fuel setup. Thanks!
Pushing the walbro 450 100% of time, the connectors inside the tank seem to be where problems pop up. You can fix that by just hard wiring the pump directly but its possible you'll overrun the fuel return line that way. Ideally, you'd run the 450 with an RC circuit to keep the relay triggered and high voltage for X time after engaged and hard wire the pump so it can handle that power long term.
Jul 26, 2020, 11:09 AM
#1889
EvoM Community Team Leader
you can add something like this to the hanger to pass larger wires through.
https://www.mcmaster.com/7807K56/
https://www.mcmaster.com/7807K56/
Jul 26, 2020, 11:20 AM
#1890
How much power? If ~450-475 and under, a walbro 255 is fine. You can get some head room out of it too with replacing the factory 8mm with a fitting at the tank and running -6 the full length along with a replacement fuel rail.
Pushing the walbro 450 100% of time, the connectors inside the tank seem to be where problems pop up. You can fix that by just hard wiring the pump directly but its possible you'll overrun the fuel return line that way. Ideally, you'd run the 450 with an RC circuit to keep the relay triggered and high voltage for X time after engaged and hard wire the pump so it can handle that power long term.
Pushing the walbro 450 100% of time, the connectors inside the tank seem to be where problems pop up. You can fix that by just hard wiring the pump directly but its possible you'll overrun the fuel return line that way. Ideally, you'd run the 450 with an RC circuit to keep the relay triggered and high voltage for X time after engaged and hard wire the pump so it can handle that power long term.
I need to pour through the other forums and get more knowledgeable in general on all the options, but I just really wanted to know if there is any aspect of fuel pumps that is "street/strip" only, so I don't make the mistake of getting a setup that works for short bursts but not long sessions.