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I just ordered stock to make 5 sets of Aero6 adapters just to have here. Soooo.. .
Really newb question but how do you go about getting your favorite pad compounds to match up to new calipers and rotors? I would hate to not have something you offer for this chassis and I'm in need of rotors anyway...
Really newb question but how do you go about getting your favorite pad compounds to match up to new calipers and rotors? I would hate to not have something you offer for this chassis and I'm in need of rotors anyway...
Theres a specific code for the pad that fits the Aero6. I use the thinner pad version which is about the same pad thickness as OEM. The pad thickness matters because it changes the rotor offset. But they're the same pad as some other cars too and about same surface area as OEM.
I dont know about the US but european carbotech distributor will do any custom pad within reason... I even got them to make me a pad with stainless backing plates that I would send to them.. to bad life had other plans so I cant test that idea sooner..
well the camber plates weren't arriving in time, so i went ahead and reassembled with the old stuff. i dont think there's anything wrong with it, just kind of beat up. the rubber rings ohlins wants you to use between the spring and the mount at the top had torn, so i replaced both with swift's thrust washers. hopefully that handles some of the noise, which may have been spring binding..
otherwise, car is ready for the next set of mods... dying for another event.. midwest just shuts down between november and march
At any rate your rotors actually look great and have a lot of life left in them. The microfractures on the surface of the disc are simply a byproduct of rapidly heating and cooling the cast iron but they are 100% superficial and do not effect the integrity of the rotor at all. It’s only an issue if one of the cracks goes out over the edge or opens up to the point where you could easily stick your fingernail between it, if it’s just catching on them it’s a non issue. I say keep beating on them, they have plenty of life left.
Those rotors are fine. I've had every single set of rotors do exactly that. Bad cracks are the ones that go to the edges and you can see them on the side of the rotor. What you have are micro surface cracks and are 100% normal.
Even my huge stoptech trophy rotors do that.
After a couple of sessions at your next event those will go away, then come back when you come back home and the rotor fully cools
Some photos of mine over the years
Last edited by razorlab; Nov 17, 2020 at 03:56 PM.
I have had rotors like that many times and, at that point, watch them carefully after every session, inside and outside for a crack that raises safety issues. I hate it. It's always such a good feeling to get new ones on again and not worry so much. The older I get, the earlier I replace them.
Those rotors are fine. I've had every single set of rotors do exactly that. Bad cracks are the ones that go to the edges. What you have are micro surface cracks and are 100% normal.
Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
I have had rotors like that many times and, at that point, watch them carefully after every session, inside and outside for a crack that raises safety issues. I hate it. It's always such a good feeling to get new ones on again and not worry so much. The older I get, the earlier I replace them.
yea he said even catching the cracks by fingernails is not an issue - only if u can really get a fingernail in there or the crack goes to the edge - which he has said has almost never happened of the course of them selling these rotors.
more or less said that for lower quality rotors, these cracks could be an issue, but normal on theirs and i've got tons of life left on them still. good point on checking the insides, which is going to be tricky to do regularly.
So pretty much as everyone has said. Sweet! FWIW, once the cracks got to the point my fingernail caught them, they were to the edges after my next session. Matter of time, I guess. I assume how much time, depends on the material. Mine were Gorodisc.
well the camber plates weren't arriving in time, so i went ahead and reassembled with the old stuff. i dont think there's anything wrong with it, just kind of beat up. the rubber rings ohlins wants you to use between the spring and the mount at the top had torn, so i replaced both with swift's thrust washers. hopefully that handles some of the noise, which may have been spring binding..
otherwise, car is ready for the next set of mods... dying for another event.. midwest just shuts down between november and march
just affirming here - it was the junk, torn rubber rings ohlins provided. after swapping them out with swift's thrust bearings, all my lock-to-lock popping noise is gone.
what coolant temp should the stock system target once the car is fully warmed up?
just affirming here - it was the junk, torn rubber rings ohlins provided. after swapping them out with swift's thrust bearings, all my lock-to-lock popping noise is gone.
what coolant temp should the stock system target once the car is fully warmed up?
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Nov 13, 2020, 09:50 AM
