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Old Jun 14, 2021, 08:35 AM
  #3256  
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Here's a dumb question - why couldn't we do this 2g style and flip the turbo Around so that the intake faces left and the o2 housing faces right? There's no AC/Drysump pump in that scenario and you simply have to go around the starter then.
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Kevin. (Jun 14, 2021)
Old Jun 14, 2021, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
MVR Wastegate spring question -- I put the 1 bar spring combo in one of the 44mm Tial MVR wategates and on a bench test the valve barely cracks open at about 23 psi (fully open at at about 28 psi). I found an old post on EvoM with Tial saying this is normal and explained by the lack of exhaust pressure on the valve, but I'm really skeptical and suspect this is going to result in wastegate pressure being over 20 psi, when I want it to be more like 14.5 psi (at least for starters). Since it's a pain to change springs once everything is installed, I'm hoping to get this right on the first try, or at least underboost rather than over. Any suggestions?

EDIT: Just saw this on Turbosmarts’s site: Although you can perform a “bench test” of a wastegate to confirm that it is cycling properly and not seized, this bench test will not offer accurate results in regards to the amount of air required to open the wastegate. It is important to keep in mind during this test that when the wastegate is actually run on the vehicle, there will be additional exhaust backpressure helping to force the wastegate open. Because of this, a 14 PSI wastegate may require 20+ PSI or air pressure to open during a bench test. The best way to confirm the proper operation of a wastegate is to run it on a vehicle.

6/13 EDIT : I reduced the spring pressure by 20% so it cracks at 16-17 psi and opens significantly at 20 psi. Hopefully, that works out okay.
If you're running dual 44mm gates, you're probbaly going to want 17-20psi springs in them. The g30-770 car I built had twin MVS (38mm) and ran 21psi on wastegate pressure with 17psi springs in the gates. The 44's flow more, and will run closer to "spring" pressure. So if you put 1bar springs in, it'l likely run 15ish psi on gate. And you'll probably have a hard time running much more than 30psi for "kill" mode.

Originally Posted by Balrok
Here's a dumb question - why couldn't we do this 2g style and flip the turbo Around so that the intake faces left and the o2 housing faces right? There's no AC/Drysump pump in that scenario and you simply have to go around the starter then.
Because then the intake tube would have to go through the P/S pump.
Old Jun 14, 2021, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Balrok
Here's a dumb question - why couldn't we do this 2g style and flip the turbo Around so that the intake faces left and the o2 housing faces right? There's no AC/Drysump pump in that scenario and you simply have to go around the starter then.
You'd have to move the power steering reservoir and the coolant overflow to fit the air filter. The exhaust would end up awkward still too and would require a pretty tight radius bend. Stuff like this is why I'm happy to stick with the stock frame stuff, keeps life simple.
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kaj (Jun 14, 2021)
Old Jun 14, 2021, 12:25 PM
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i used to have my gate water cooled but found it a pain in the *** and a point of failure so removed the water lines and havnt looked back. ive never had an issue on track with the wastegate getting too hot.
Old Jun 14, 2021, 02:25 PM
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Dang evos...lol. They also make the MVS's with the heat sink built-in but the neck on those would be into the P/S pump on your setup. To clarify did you do dual 44's or dual 38's?
Old Jun 14, 2021, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ayoustin
You'd have to move the power steering reservoir and the coolant overflow to fit the air filter. The exhaust would end up awkward still too and would require a pretty tight radius bend. Stuff like this is why I'm happy to stick with the stock frame stuff, keeps life simple.
I'm with this guy. So much less work.

Originally Posted by bee-raddd
i used to have my gate water cooled but found it a pain in the *** and a point of failure so removed the water lines and havnt looked back. ive never had an issue on track with the wastegate getting too hot.
I've never run water cooling. Only recently have I ever heard about it. I assume it's needed for some applications.
Old Jun 14, 2021, 04:09 PM
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But yes in that case - I'd run the throttle body fittings and daisy chain them back to the throttle body return. But since you don't ...really...know that you need them yet, I'd try without and focus on those steps first.
Old Jun 14, 2021, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Balrok
But yes in that case - I'd run the throttle body fittings and daisy chain them back to the throttle body return. But since you don't ...really...know that you need them yet, I'd try without and focus on those steps first.
I’m not going to worry about the water lines for now. I’m sure it’s okay for initial wastegate spring testing and initial tuning. I do plan to add it because the gate on the right side is so close to the header tubes. The motorsport MVS with the extra heat sink doesn’t fit as you said. I asked Morrison about that gate. They got one on loan from Tial for me, but weren’t able to make it work without compromising the wastegate inlet angle on the passenger side. I do have twin MVRs, not MVSs — Morrison’s recommendation based on my desire to be able to really turn down the boost.
Old Jun 14, 2021, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Balrok
Here's a dumb question - why couldn't we do this 2g style and flip the turbo Around so that the intake faces left and the o2 housing faces right? There's no AC/Drysump pump in that scenario and you simply have to go around the starter then.
Well its a slippery slope. I am sure you are aware of the changes that you need to make to run a forward facing setup which is almost the same goal. The market might see the advantage of that.
When you ask yourself the question:
If a shop developed a kit like that then how many units could they produce and sell?
Old Jun 14, 2021, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by kaj
As much as I'd like more power, all these headaches keep me happy at 450.

They aren’t headaches to me. I’ve had 6 different stock frame setups on my car over 17 years of ownership. It’s exciting to me to finally try something different, even if I don’t make big numbers.
Old Jun 14, 2021, 07:35 PM
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Wastegates only need water cooling if they're stuff in an area surrounded by exhaust heat and have little airflow going over them. The left gate may need it. A good indicator if water cooling is needed is if the anodizing on the top of the wastegate starts to fade fast.
Old Jun 14, 2021, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
They aren’t headaches to me. I’ve had 6 different stock frame setups on my car over 17 years of ownership. It’s exciting to me to finally try something different, even if I don’t make big numbers.
I assumed going away from stock frame would make things easier. No more being limited to OEM locations for stuff, etc.
But not so sure now, especially since I prefer IWG.
Old Jun 15, 2021, 07:08 AM
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Looking through some of the finer details of putting together my next engine and where I want bearing clearances to be. Trying to determine if I want to move from Amsoil Dominator 15w50 to Dominator 10w30. The 15w50 is some pretty thick stuff and I'm concerned some of the bearing wear I saw on my last tear down a couple years ago was from insufficient flow on cold starts.
Old Jun 15, 2021, 10:09 AM
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Eh, the DOM 15 feels a bit thin for a 50 weight category oil to begin with which I liked due to the reasons you stated, it's not like honey you get on vr1 or the like. In motorsport conditions I'd rather a 50 back down to a 40 then a 30 back down to a 20 when the heat comes in. Even though I am running a oem block.
Old Jun 15, 2021, 10:17 AM
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Seems 10w40 or 50 would be the answer then.


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