kaj

iTrader: (60)

Hose clamps. Or duct tape. Your choice.

Kevin.

iTrader: (7)

like 500 maybe? I've put less than 1k on it in this last year. Just crossed 137k.

Under boost the broken filter I think was messing with the MAF readings cus it had symptoms of a large boost leak.

I bought a K&N instead of waiting, matches the valve cover better than boy blue

​​​​​​​That the AMS kit?

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

binary engineering

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

so just to be clear as far as engine heat management, not much else to do besides intercooler, radiator/fan, and some coating? the only thing I've got in that regard is my ported and coated oem exhaust manifold and a cerakote downpipe, and some heat tape on my oem uicp

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Soooo, I did a boost leak check for some pre tour/pro maintenance and I haven't done one in a while on it. Wow, two massive leaks. Its just funny when its a massive leak that stops with 1/4 turn of a t-bolt.

Only have a few T-bolts left which seem to cause some rubber creep over time and lose their holding. Replaced almost all with constant pressure clamps and tested to 35psi. ECU seems to be pulling adequate duty cycle to hold 25-26psi but its always impressive how much power a couple good leaks with lose.

Soooo, if you havent tested lately maybe go out for me and verify

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

constant pressure clamps? I am kinda getting sick of stabbing myself on the end of the t-bolts lol.

*cough arms cough*

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

https://www.mishimoto.com/automotive...clampstyle=663

Not sure if this link will work right, but its the worm drive with the Belville spring stacks to keep tension. They work pretty great.

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

I've been using ABA smooth high torque worm clamps for over a decade on my car and others with zero issues. Best clamps period, you pay for it though.

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

Check your oil cooler. If it's got a ton of messed up fins then it'd be a good time to upgrade to a decent 25 row kit.


Someone mentioned something about expensive clamps? I'm just happy I won't lose any more seat time to popped pipes or crush the end tanks of my intercooler any more lol.

Bee-Raddd

You should be doing this as your pre round prep checks! theres always leaks haha. Ive got wiggins couplings for my throttle body like ayoustin does but i havnt done the other clamps yet. To be honest i use real heavy duty t bolt clamps and dont really ever get an issue with boost leaks. Big thing about the wiggins clamps is your pipework must be lined up perfectly.

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

Do you put 35 psi right into the turbo inlet and not remove or block anything else in your setup to test? I’ve never put operating PSI into my turbo inlet because I’ve worried about pressurizing the crankcase.

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

if your temps are okay, then your cooling is good enough. Obviously, you can do more than you mentioned with ducting, hood vents/extractors, extra fans, engine bay partitioning around the airbox, etc., but it’s overkill if your temps (coolant, oil and AITs) are fine as is.

Terror Rising

iTrader: (26)

I take the BOV recirc hose off so I can see if that's leaking and put the pressure to the inlet.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

What Kevin said. BOV is on but recirc is dangling to check that too. If you have an MBC you might need to tighten it. If you're at TDC, you might get air flowing through the cylinder in the overlap but just move pistons somewhere in the middle and either intake or exhaust will be closed.

And use a compressor with a regulator. connected a hose to it like a power tool fitting so its all just connected and you dont have your hand in there when its pressurizing cause things can blow off aggressively. Ramp up the regulator gradually, easy peasy.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

has anyone heard from raybestos/girodisc about ANY pad other than the st43? i'm getting nothing from them in terms of production for st41, st45, st47... apparently it was a nightmare for girodisc even to get the st43s