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think i found which screw punctured my tire this past weekend - the right two were completely gone, and the left two were unthreaded a good deal. i think the balance shaft delete is making things very buzzy on the engine, any other bolts and such i should make sure are good? the valve cover is still on good
Do you put 35 psi right into the turbo inlet and not remove or block anything else in your setup to test? I’ve never put operating PSI into my turbo inlet because I’ve worried about pressurizing the crankcase.
Yes pretty much, I have a pipe i made up with a hose fitting welded into the end of it. I will take a photo of it all if you like. I remove the intake pipe between the air filter box and turbo intake and bolt it straight onto the turbo intake. And as Dallas also said i use a regulator and just increase the pressure till im around 35 - 40psi and have the hose hooked up to the compressor.
As also mentioned you can loose a little pressure if the engine is sitting with a valve open but it doesnt really matter as long as you have a supply hooked up you can hear and feel straight away if theres an external leak. having e throttle too the throttlebody is completely shut so only get a very small amount leaking past the butterfly.
you just then go around each intercooler joint and feel each one for leaking air and also feel around the manifold and any hoses coming off there etc. but when you have an external leak its pretty noisy you can hear them.
Im not sure why you would be worried about pressurising the crankcase or which route the pressure would be taking to get there, and if its getting there via a boost leak down test its getting there when the engines going too
think i found which screw punctured my tire this past weekend - the right two were completely gone, and the left two were unthreaded a good deal. i think the balance shaft delete is making things very buzzy on the engine, any other bolts and such i should make sure are good? the valve cover is still on good
id be surprised if it was a screw off your own car that punctured your tyre unless it fell off and you managed to run it over on another lap. More than likely somebody elses junk haha.
Its always good practice to spanner check every bolt and nut before going on the track, but depends how much time you want to spend doing prep i guess.
With the GT3 cup cars we run they are generally super reliable so we just do a spanner check before first practice physically with tools and then we use a paint pen to match mark the bolt heads to the chassis etc. then we just visually inspect for the rest of the weekend to see if any of these match marks no longer line up which is a good quick indication. so you could always go around and do that after youve done a full tighten once.
On the evo i use a product called torque seal which is like a silicone almost that you put along the bolt and nut or bolt to chassis etc same as youd do with a paint pen and it dries hard. if the bolt turns the torque seal will crack and break and you can instantly see if its no longer tight. Could also try some of this? i have every bolt and nut that isnt commonly removed marked up with this stuff now.
Been fitting up my SSB billet front hubs the last 2 nights. Pretty exciting getting them all bolted up. big difference in geometry! Weve had to modify the front brake duct/ caliper mounts to get it all to fit up so is taking a bit of time to get done but will post up some photos later today. Also got my air jack kit all running on my car which is pretty wicked
for the air jacks i ended up finding a supplier who built my own branded jacks, can send you a set if you like balrok.
for the mounting points i have one picking up off the middle of the rear subframe using the old diff pickup points, and then 2 on the floor right next to where my rollcage front laterals come down. Will see if i have pics
first "upgrade" to my 2 month old evo. car had everything from the factory in tact, except the trunk carpet was missing. i did the trunk bar install (using Lancer (non evo) strut bar), and added a Beatrush strut bar, mostly to have something to tie things to in the trunk. topped off the spare to 60psi. painted the wood board. and today I just received my factory OEM carpet from Mitsubishi. it covers the trunk bar nicely.
I pulled everything out. The part of the window regulator that connects to the top-side cable broke. Motor seems to be fine, so a new regulator is on the way.
first "upgrade" to my 2 month old evo. car had everything from the factory in tact, except the trunk carpet was missing. i did the trunk bar install (using Lancer (non evo) strut bar), and added a Beatrush strut bar, mostly to have something to tie things to in the trunk. topped off the spare to 60psi. painted the wood board. and today I just received my factory OEM carpet from Mitsubishi. it covers the trunk bar nicely.
I just realized how long it's been since I've seen an Evo with a carpeted trunk.
2012, I'm thinking.
I kept looking at that for a minute and finally remembered "oh ha this dude's right hand drive" lol. We have a number of makers over here in the states. I was too thinking two on the front cage and just one in the middle rear to save weight. How far they raise at what psi/bar? Did you do the whole lance back fender connection or?
Morrison G25-660 update: Running 0.8 bar springs in my dual 44mm wastegates (single scroll), with an uncorked exhaust, it hits about 18 psi at 3750 rpm (relatively untuned on a 2.0) and creeps to 21 psi at 7000 rpm, which is as high as I’ve taken it so far). Very glad I got a 2-gate setup and that I didn’t go with 38s. I’m also glad that the 0,8 bar springs seem pretty good for a guesstimate. I can’t change wastegate springs without pulling off the manifold, so I was dreading having to do all that work just to dial in the springs. Looks like I don’t have to. Also, although the IC pipes are hot to the touch when I open the hood, the AITs are still at ambient according to the logs. Still, I plan to do something about shielding before hitting the track with this setup. For now, I’m happy just to be able to drive it again.
I wonder if it wouldn’t creep if I were not recirculating the WG flow? Doesn’t matter because I definitely wouldn’t want that noise factor.
Jul 7, 2021, 11:23 AM
