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Ya I'll say it was not very OCD friendly to get it dead 0 lol.
That is always the problem when dealing with aligning a slot. Now if there was a geared adjustment one that could rotate the housing at that point in set increments that would be a step forward.
Anybody know if they can trigger ICS spray light on a usdm Evo 9 (the 5 o clock bulb in this pic)? I thought the ACD cluster on usdm cars might not have that functionality on the cluster but it looks like all the circuitry is there with conductivity and it even has a bulb in that spot. I was thinking of using it as a knock light warning with my standalone if the ecu pin works for it.
Considering I look at wiring diagrams on the daily for various machines, these Mitsubishi schematics confuse the **** out of me but hopefully this helps?
i've got it at a shop that pressurized the system and didn't physically see any leaks, but said that the leak may be coming from the back of the head gasket. they guessed that the motor has been recently rebuilt/out of the car, and they were right. they think they should take it off, resurface if it
but the shop that did the build resurfaced the head and all and should have put everything together properly. that shop is saying that the leak is probably coming from the coolant throttle body hoses, which often fail. these have been bypassed, but he said it's still the same hose so it still be leaking from there.
gonna relay that message to the shop that currently has it, but any ideas?
any ideas before the shop starts really getting in there to take parts off?
Not sure if you can test just by idling/driving the car, but taping paper towels here and there can help identify the source. you can use a zip tie to separate possible drips from heater and TB coolant hoses
those barbs for coolant hoses get rusted/pitted. Sometimes the hoses need to go back the same way for it to sit properly, if not replaced
ok re: my small coolant leak issue (dropping in expansion tank, trail on the transmission)
i took the car to a local performance shop here that works mostly on subarus but also evos and what they said:
new shop: looks like coolant is very slightly leaking out of the back of the head, very little bit wet around the freeze plug. maybe something wasn't torqued all the way down, or head refinished, or whatever
talked to shop that did the motor: we did machine the head, torque everything, it's probably the throttle body coolant lines.
talked to the new shop: those hoses were bypassed
old shop: it's still connected, could leak slightly there - they need to pressure test
new shop: yea we checked, it's bone dry. we did pressure test, it's just hard to see, but looks like the back of the block
so at this point, i'm not sure. i assume the head or head gasket may have warped or something? this never happened with the previous motor, everything was fine, so I'm not sure why this is happening, or if anyone has any other ideas of what it could be.
if there's no ideas, basically the next thing the shop is gonna do is take off the head and start looking/maybe replace whatever, measure the head, etc...
I'd be amazed if your head gasket was leaking coolant externally. If your head was surfaced poorly enough to leak coolant externally then you'd be pouring coolant into the cylinders too.
It's not really hard to see if you pull out the battery and intake. No way should they be dismantling the engine until they have visually inspected every connection under pressure and done some more follow up with the motor like compression testing etc. Inspection cameras are cheap. Even then, I would send it back to the builder at that point.
Last edited by Biggiesacks; Jan 11, 2022 at 11:56 AM.
I'd be amazed if your head gasket was leaking coolant externally. If your head was surfaced poorly enough to leak coolant externally then you'd be pouring coolant into the cylinders too.
Originally Posted by Biggiesacks
It's not really hard to see if you pull out the battery and intake. No way should they be dismantling the engine until they have visually inspected every connection under pressure and done some more follow up with the motor like compression testing etc. Even then, I would send it back to the builder at that point.
ok so:
i talked to both of them and they talked to each other, and basically what the new shop said is that right now, the leak is so small it's not possible to really see what it is. they see some moisture around the back of the head gasket near cylinder 4, *maybe* some around the freeze plug, and that's what they think. I guess the *speculation* is that it somehow got hot and caused some damage to the head gasket.
there's no battery so that's not in the way, and not a noobie shop they are legit. they're basically saying, it's almost impossible to see anything, and what they said is take it back, race it, and let's take a look after the next race to see what's happened. hopefully it'll be clearer if it gets any worse or whatever the case may be. the new shop does not WANT to dismantle it, that's the last thing they really want to do, in part because also they don't know what caused it to begin with. so more or less, i just need to keep an eye on it.
given the coolant hoses to the throttle body are bypassed, anything else i shoudl really do as far as wrapping stuff with paper towel in hopes of seeing if there's a clearer idea where this is happening at?
note: they also did a compression and boost leak test, no issues there.
The bypass itself could be leaking, but you should see that with a pressure test.
It kinda sounded like the new shop was going to try and take you for a ride, so that's good clarification.
sorry, yea not that at all, again if anything they don't want to take apart without a better idea on cause.
and they checked exactly that, the bypass hose, said it was bone dry. would almost be better if the leak were bigger, so that they could see it more easily. i guess the coolant gauge wouldn't show if it got momentarily overheated and the gasket failed, but i did check oil and no signs of coolant there. i'm taking the car back tonight, not sure what else i should be checking for at this point.
sorry, yea not that at all, again if anything they don't want to take apart without a better idea on cause.
and they checked exactly that, the bypass hose, said it was bone dry. would almost be better if the leak were bigger, so that they could see it more easily. i guess the coolant gauge wouldn't show if it got momentarily overheated and the gasket failed, but i did check oil and no signs of coolant there. i'm taking the car back tonight, not sure what else i should be checking for at this point.
any more pictures? i put non oe clamps & hoses recently and had a leak
any more pictures? i put non oe clamps & hoses recently and had a leak
i'll take some pics when i get the car back, but if they're not seeing it while pressure testing, i doubt i will see anything.
if it's an "obvious" leak (one of the coolant hoses, etc) ,when they pressure test (they put 15psi through it), it would be an obvious and apparent where it's coming from, correct?
I've got the car back, it's actually really hard to see anything back there, but let me know what kind of pics I could take to better show anything. Everything is pretty much in the way.
Jan 3, 2022, 07:05 PM
