kyoo

iTrader: (29)

well darn

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

has anyone gotten a quote for new front wheel bearings from these guys? or is it better to just go with timkens?

someone recently told me reusing wheel bearings for the new ssb uprights would be like putting used pistons into a new engine @Balrok

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

You're more a "while your in there" then about anyone we know so you already know the drill lol.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

hence the ap racing brakes and strut tower brace still sitting in my basement, lol

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

ya good to have a back up hub with arp studs already

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

hubs come with studs in them right? lol

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

I reused mine. Wheel bearings don't just go bad, they give warning. They're not hard to replace and it's better to have a spare than replace them on principal.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

i can still keep the used one as a spare backup, not exactly like i was gonna toss it. maybe eventually swap the core with something nice.

it's a very much while i'm in there kind of thing

on some really good news, a local car buddy is gonna help me install all this stuff next weekend

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

if you get the assembled ones, it comes with the flange and/or OE studs. I personally cant use OE length studs with my various wheels so I immediately install arp studs. the old ones you just replaced because new uprights can be your backup. People normally do self tech inspection a few days before an event and a fully assembled hub could come in handy

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

yea that's what i'm thinking. save some immediate trouble for now.

fwiw, i asked proracing and they sell 4 corners (fronts with full hub assembly, rears just the cartridge to press the hub into) for $2k. A little steep for me though.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

yeah too much. I've tried the cheap ones (not the cheapest lol) on ebay and none of them broke on me. I do replace for whatever reason like surface rust or studs getting old or flange spins 'a lot freer' than new I have genuine mitsubishi hubs as my back up too

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

a buddy of mine is gonna help me do all this work next weekend (thank god) so we're gonna try to knock it all out. haven't made a final decision yet on front hub, but it'll be:

- strut tower brace
- ssb upright + wheel bearing/hub assembly
- ap racing 8350
- (possibly) uicp
- (possibly) air intake pipe

with a few other things lined up for march. little by little trying to shift the weight balance on the car

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Make sure to use anti-seize on most everything threaded. A rat-a-tat helps speed things along greatly. Also be sure to use WOOD to tap the hubs in/out. Not the metal part of the hammer. SSB's are a perfect fit which means lining it up make take a couple tries. Some anti-sieze on the outside on the mating surface (i mean very little) helps. You may kick yourself for not getting his control arms Buuut, fear not replacing control arms is 3 bolts if you do it after. What else...oh...be ready for WTF levels of grip, braking, and overall joy. THEN you'll be asking yourself why the REARS are 2x better performance then doing the fronts . And then we'll likely get another 300 questions just so you can keep EvoM post activity up haha.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

anti-seize on threads? i was thinking loctite? 10-4 on antiseize on the mating surface between upright & wheel bearing.

rear uprights are next on the list, but probably a 2023 thing for me.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Lol. The fronts are totally necessary but the rears are weird. Even I never expected they'd have as much impact as they do. It'd be a sketchy ride with rear only, but I still remember my first turn on course with the prototypes, MAGIC!