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Youd be surprised how much travel you get if your loaded through a corner and hit a bump or something. Its not something you can test by just jacking the wheel up
Even with my crazy spring, I use up all my 2" of bump travel as evidenced by the tires occasionally hitting the fender.
On that harness on the driver side, you can relocate it pulling slack from both ends and using insulated loop clamps. With that moved, I folded the seam for an extra 3/4" of up travel.
Even with my crazy spring, I use up all my 2" of bump travel as evidenced by the tires occasionally hitting the fender.
On that harness on the driver side, you can relocate it pulling slack from both ends and using insulated loop clamps. With that moved, I folded the seam for an extra 3/4" of up travel.
i havend had the issue of tire contacting fender in the past - will there be something about the upright that changes that?
btw - the binary brake duct brackets don't fit anymore - @Balrok did you do something to modify them?
i think i am giving up a lot of heat management in the brakes, and want to see if i can claw some back - just in terms of heat management below - not just considering boiling temps but optimal temps for the pad function:
losing:
- brake ducting (only 2" to be fair, but I did notice the difference)
- 25mm of material mass in rotors (heat sink)
- titanium shims
gaining:
- clearer path for MR brake air guides (though I shaved an edge off of mine for the ducting clearance, dammit)
- possibly better rotor design, though girodisc's was pretty good, possibly better hat/design
- stainless steel pistons (never noticed a difference when I did the ventilated ss pistons on the stock calipers)
mainly worried about the loss of ducting here, but there's def no way that ducting bolts on to both bolts, the shape of the bracket spindle impedes binary's flat surface. it's easier to see if you look at the bottom of where the bracket would attach. you can attach one bolt and it would be decently secure; however, the air would be pointing basically at the front end of the rotor/back of the caliper; essentially pointless, potentially harmful in respect to pad wear.
i also just want to be clear the stuff i have been posting is no way a knock on the ssb products that i've received, and it will always be difficult/impossible for aftermarket parts to take into account other aftermarket parts. however, i do want to make these posts just to note various things i have encountered for posterity.
I did the SSB and the 9660's at the same time and decided to ditch said bracket since the rotor was so large. So no I haven't tried going back. But it should be added to the list!
I did the SSB and the 9660's at the same time and decided to ditch said bracket since the rotor was so large. So no I haven't tried going back. But it should be added to the list!
ah i see. i guess the only relevant question then is, do you think i will have issues with heat in the brakes, given my setup and pad choice (3.12's if you recall)
you could make up a spacer to space the brackets out so they clear the middle. or cut down the shape of the ducting so it clears but you will weaken them this way.
I found the girodisc material to be quite soft and you go through the disc thickness quite fast. Doesnt compare to a proper motorsport rotor like an AP racing rotor for example.
Optimal brake temps vary depending on what pads etc you have and their working range.
Pretty much what happens is each brake application the brake temp spikes. and then as you accelerate etc the temp comes back down. and then you brake again and it spikes again. without proper cooling to bring them back down between brake applications each spike increases the temp more and more. for example if you dont have sufficient cooling for ur brakes it will go like this: first application brake temp peaks at 500deg then comes back down to say 200deg but then you brake again and temp peaks at 700 the second time. and then only falls down to 400deg. and then you brake again and peak temp is now 900deg.
Obviously various things can affect this like the circuit layout, power level of car, weight of car, strength of braking system, ambient temperature, raining or not etc.
Generally you can get away with the temp constantly increasing if your only doing short runs but at some point you will hit boiling point of your fluid and then get brake fade.
I would also advise cooling for brakes because the more you keep the temps under control the more life you get from your wheel bearings and wheelspeed sensors etc. as they arent subjected to massive heat and spikes in temperature as much.
Best thing to do would be get your local brake supplier to paint mark your calipers and discs with their temp stickers or temperature sensitive paint and see what sort of temp your brakes are getting up to this will tell you if you need more or less ducting.
I do have a design for a 2.5" duct, I just havent been able to get it made at any reasonable price unfortunately. Its a bit complicated of a fit and keeping clearance to the Axle. Almost wondering if a 3D printed ASA or CF Nylon would work there.
also worth mentioning that air will take the path of least resistance, so unless you have an almost air tight seal to the inside of the rotor hat forcing the air through the vanes of the rotor you wont get that efficient cooling. essentially all the binary style ducting does is blows air onto the inside surface of the disc, which isnt great but its better than nothing. If it was really efficient youd have issues with bowing of your rotors as your cooling the inside surface of the rotor much more than the outside. this can cause pad knockoff and premature failure of your rotors. But the correct way is to force air up the center of the rotor between the faces and up out the vanes of the disc. although obviously alot more complicated and time consuming to make a tailored solution to achieve this.
Unfortunately i dont have a picture with the duct itself installed or the disc installed but it just has a moulded piece of fibreglass which bolts on to the gold brackets where the 2 empty holes are. the gold circular bit is designed to match the inner edge of the disc i run and the disc is almost touching this gold bracket. which is designed to seal any air that blows in via the duct into the inner circumference of the rotor encouraging the air to escape out via the center of the rotor and hence cooling it as it goes. With a setup like this i can run an entire tank of gas at full race speed (about 30min) without overheating brakes or fluid.
Obviously this is an extreme solution but just thought i would show an example of what lengths you can go to if required. First step temp paint and that will let you know what your temps are spiking to and what cooling you need to suit your demands.
Also should add to the above the solution is alot easier if your running an aftermarket brake setup. there isnt much room with the factory disc to do much which makes life harder.
I do have a design for a 2.5" duct, I just havent been able to get it made at any reasonable price unfortunately. Its a bit complicated of a fit and keeping clearance to the Axle. Almost wondering if a 3D printed ASA or CF Nylon would work there.
Biggest issue will be temp and if the temp of the rotor would be enough to melt the 3d printed material. You could 3d print a mould and make it out of fibreglass?
Feb 1, 2022, 02:05 PM
