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youre probably on fresh asphalt? older asphalt tracks near me have concrete patches. youre not going to get the best grip if you leave that patch
fresh asphalt also have a slick layer of dust. one local dragstrip closed because of dust from a neighboring business
Yea we dont have any concrete circuits here they are all asphalt so we are quite spoilt.
Having an abundance of extra grip is one of the most plausable reasons why i suspect maybe the super high spring rates dont work for me but i dont like to assume or jump to conclusions Hence why it would be good to compare what surfaces and tyres etc people are using with their setups and which spring rates they prefer. Might help everybody in the future when somebody can say i have this setup on these tyres for this type of racing on this type of surface and it makes it easier to recommend what spring rates might work as there seems to be quite a variance.
Yea we dont have any concrete circuits here they are all asphalt so we are quite spoilt.
Having an abundance of extra grip is one of the most plausable reasons why i suspect maybe the super high spring rates dont work for me but i dont like to assume or jump to conclusions Hence why it would be good to compare what surfaces and tyres etc people are using with their setups and which spring rates they prefer. Might help everybody in the future when somebody can say i have this setup on these tyres for this type of racing on this type of surface and it makes it easier to recommend what spring rates might work as there seems to be quite a variance.
our slower turns are banked too
I have to lower maybe 5k on all corners if i take my car to COTA. If i make it the there this year i may try both setups
control arms flipped! austin's max camber settings figured out too. so - i re-RAISED the suspension from the cup about an inch, as this is supposed to give it back, correct?
ok so basically no difference from flipping the control arm. i shortened the coilover at the height adjusting lower cup by the amount i was supposed to receive (0.75", plus another 1/4" to get the desired ride height). I thought I was supposed to gain 0.75" from flipping the control arm. @Dallas J
I dont know what you changed on the shock, but this is the gap you gain, which is about .75". If you changes the shock body length at the same time you just negated the gain.
I dont know what you changed on the shock, but this is the gap you gain, which is about .75". If you changes the shock body length at the same time you just negated the gain.
i had to change the shock body length, otherwise the rears would be up by that amount when sitting on the ground? i'm not trying to add rear ride height, trying add rear droop
The whole point of flipping was to move the wheel down at full droop. Shortening the body just pulls it back up at full droop. Lower the spring perch to lower the car.
The whole point of flipping was to move the wheel down at full droop. Shortening the body just pulls it back up at full droop. Lower the spring perch to lower the car.
ok, this is why i was asking about a longer spring, and preloading it an inch. then the ride height is added at the preload of the spring, and i can thread the cup back down for more droop travel, right? since the preloaded spring does not take away the shock body length. right now i have about 1.5" of droop travel.
ok, this is why i was asking about a longer spring, and preloading it an inch. then the ride height is added at the preload of the spring, and i can thread the cup back down for more droop travel, right? since the preloaded spring does not take away the shock body length. right now i have about 1.5" of droop travel.
this is where you use shorter spring + helper. the helper is the one that droops. see pic i posted earlier
I wouldnt play too much with preload unless you want more from the actual spring rate
this is where you use shorter spring + helper. the helper is the one that droops. see pic i posted earlier
I wouldnt play too much with preload unless you want more from the actual spring rate
so don't preload the helper but rather let it be at uncompressed length to "consume" the ride height drop, lowering the car when it is on the ground, and then add the height back again at the cup, lengthening the shock body and droop travel?
so don't preload the helper but rather let it be at uncompressed length to "consume" the ride height drop, lowering the car when it is on the ground, and then add the height back again at the cup, lengthening the shock body and droop travel?
dont mind how the helper is pre-compressed. just set the ride height you want and fill the air gap between the (shorter) spring and the top hat with a helper spring. you probably need the thinnest helper/tender spring to get the most droop to play with
FWIW - took a quick drive just now. Brakes feel way better now, more similar at least in cold performance to the ST43s. That said, it's 80 degrees outside.
As I thought, the car does feel a little gentler over mild to moderate bumps. There is a disconcertingly solid thunk from the rear over the tougher bumps, but overall no real change in NVH. Something started groaning when steering as I pulled the car in, but gonna wait and see post alignment if there's anything going on, just a preliminary one on the car right now.
also, just installed an RS trunk bar! anyone know what the part number is for the plastic that covers the trunk latch/surrounding area? I've got mine but it requires cutting to fit over the bar, would like to do it on a spare/used if possible
also, just installed an RS trunk bar! anyone know what the part number is for the plastic that covers the trunk latch/surrounding area? I've got mine but it requires cutting to fit over the bar, would like to do it on a spare/used if possible
Mar 1, 2022, 01:40 PM
