Balrok

iTrader: (15)

For Bee? He's after that show car StAnCe lol. With full slicks you usually run between 3 and 4 deg.

MrAWD

Even in the rear?

Well, never run slicks on the road track, but that is a lot from autoX perspective! How do you even make it to turn with that amount of camber?

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

An ASP evo needs around 4-4.5 deg of front camber and 2.5-3deg of rear camber.

MrAWD

I believe that! I was just surprised to see things over 3 degrees for the rear end.

MrAWD

At the same time, what would STU require?

Construct

iTrader: (4)

I preferred 3.7 up front and 2.1 in the rear in STU trim on my IX. Some people prefer rear camber in the 1.5 range for a looser setup, but I could never get that to feel right in the sweepers.

Bee-Raddd

Normally run 2 to 2.5deg in the rear and 4 to 4.5 deg up front fellas

Think the angle of that pic is distorting it a lil.

And yea its a full wrap its chrome and alot brighter in person. Been on there for a couple rounds of racing so far

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

good to know, I'll go take out some camber from the front and rear of Tom's car.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Haha, straight from the horses mouth

Meathooker

iTrader: (2)

lol i was thinking the same thing.

iirc i had around 5 or 5.5 in my car when i did autox

MrAWD

I have no issues with larger front camber - you get as much as you need to keep things happy!

But, having much more than 3 degrees in the rear is surprising...

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

Rear camber lets you crank up the rear roll stiffness and also helps reduce the understeer caused by the rear diff preload.

That said we're only at like 3.2 deg in the rear.

MrAWD

Makes sense!! 3.2 on sticky tires like Hoosiers can work for sure.

Me personally, I like to create rotation with the throttle as early as possible, so going too stiff in the rear might get in the way of that. But, lots of ways to skin this one, and that is what makes all of this so additive and fun!!!

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I'm picturing this

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Not quite what Marshal is *probably* eluding to. Make the rear do more work by taking a greater amount of the total weight transfer and the front has to do less work. Then do what you need to to keep the car stable. This has little to do with on throttle rotation and more about getting the front to turn and rear to yaw.

Evo's are a funny thing, lowering the car increases rear camber gain and decreases front. In something like an ASP/SM car, the rear might be so stiff its barely going to move so camber gain isn't seen so you need static camber. At the same time, RC's move at totally different rates so you may dump the rear ride height and leave the front high. Or you can jump to SM and just fix all that non-sense