Sup w/them 2024 Summer Projects?
Dec 29, 2022, 11:59 AM
#4996
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
A fuel tank drain spout so it doesnt make a mess?
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LetsGetThisDone (Dec 29, 2022)
Dec 29, 2022, 02:07 PM
#5000
You divided instead of multiplying or something,
CP8350 Relative bias shift = 1 - (2480/2919 * 325/320) = 13.7% (rearward shift)
XRZ4R = 13.1%. So sure, I guess thats less than the essex kit. On paper, that should be more than the stock ABS will be happy with, though maybe its happier with rear bias. Its still a bit of a mystery what it will freak out with.
I use the Aero6 kit with 320mm rotors having an 11% rear shift for AutoX with the idea that I'll swap to X rotors for track for a net zero shift.
CP8350 Relative bias shift = 1 - (2480/2919 * 325/320) = 13.7% (rearward shift)
XRZ4R = 13.1%. So sure, I guess thats less than the essex kit. On paper, that should be more than the stock ABS will be happy with, though maybe its happier with rear bias. Its still a bit of a mystery what it will freak out with.
I use the Aero6 kit with 320mm rotors having an 11% rear shift for AutoX with the idea that I'll swap to X rotors for track for a net zero shift.
I use an estimate for the "effective radius" number that RSMike mentioned: Rotor radius minus one half of the brake pad width.
The OEM Evo brake pads are relatively wide at 61-62mm depending on the drawings you look at. This makes the effective radius = 320mm / 2 - 62mm / 2 = 129mm. Most aftermarket calipers use narrower pads, so the effective radius is slightly larger.
It's not a huge difference, but it explains why your calculations didn't match mine.
And no, I didn't "divide instead of multiply or something"
Dec 29, 2022, 02:19 PM
#5001
The AP CP9660 is an awesome caliper for 356mm to 380mm rotors, but it's significantly more expensive.
They have a few calipers in between, but they're not cheap. The Wilwood stuff can be had at a decent discount through distributors.
I should probably bite the bullet and get the big CP9660 kit, though.
Dec 30, 2022, 08:03 AM
#5004
Has anyone ran one of these:
https://jdcustomsusa.com/products/fr...yABEgLvHfD_BwE
wondering if you can run a shorty belt from the PS pump to crank to alt without the water pump pulley.
That or shave the blades off of the stock water pump housing to retain the pulley but the FF solution would be a lot cleaner.
https://jdcustomsusa.com/products/fr...yABEgLvHfD_BwE
wondering if you can run a shorty belt from the PS pump to crank to alt without the water pump pulley.
That or shave the blades off of the stock water pump housing to retain the pulley but the FF solution would be a lot cleaner.
Dec 30, 2022, 08:30 AM
#5005
Evolving Member
What water pump do you plan on running? I believe BMW electric pumps are supposed to be the one to go for.
11-51-7-586-925 is the part number of said pump btw.
11-51-7-586-925 is the part number of said pump btw.
Last edited by TimC909; Dec 30, 2022 at 09:01 AM.
Dec 30, 2022, 09:06 PM
#5009
I'm using one of the land rover/ford fuel pump control modules (7H42 style). They're cheap on ebay (~$50) and I can control it with the AEM infinity ecu. Spent a long time reading through the awesome threads mrfred has on here about his fuel pump DIY's and I thought I'd try to do something similar. It seemed like the biggest unresolved issue was modulating the fuel flow at low load to prevent over running the return flow and the two stage voltage control (stock) wasn't cutting it so PWM here we come. my stretch goal is to not modify the return line/regulator/jet pump diameter and see if I can just control the fuel supply to not over run the pressure regulator.
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Construct (Dec 31, 2022)
Dec 30, 2022, 10:58 PM
#5010
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by griceiv
I'm using one of the land rover/ford fuel pump control modules (7H42 style). They're cheap on ebay (~$50) and I can control it with the AEM infinity ecu. Spent a long time reading through the awesome threads mrfred has on here about his fuel pump DIY's and I thought I'd try to do something similar. It seemed like the biggest unresolved issue was modulating the fuel flow at low load to prevent over running the return flow and the two stage voltage control (stock) wasn't cutting it so PWM here we come. my stretch goal is to not modify the return line/regulator/jet pump diameter and see if I can just control the fuel supply to not over run the pressure regulator.
That being said, 1650's tune out completely fine with a walbro 450 or 525 on hi/lo voltage wiring, stock regulator, and stock siphon drilled to 9/64", with no issues getting fuel from the other side of the tank. (Source- my car and idk how many others I've done)
Larger injectors idle better at 55-60psi base pressure anyways, it seems to smooth out the non-linear short pulse width region. Every 2000/2150 car we do with a real fuel system, we set base pressure to 58psi. This also allows the 2000cc injectors to support over 1000hp if we have enough pump. I end up doing the same base pressure with 1650's, they tune out better.