Sup w/them 2024 Summer Projects?
#500
EvoM Guru
#502
I run slight toe-out up front, slight toe-in out back. I havent played with it nearly as much over the last couple years because I have so many other variable most don't have control over or at least not this level of control. But I see no reason to run toe out in the rear.
#503
EvoM Guru
If youre running toe out in the rear to get it to rotate, why not run less toe and more rear spring? More rear spring will actually make the rear work more. Rear toe might move the back a bit but you're basically not letting it reach as much slip angle where it can maximize the work it can do. And the more you can work the outside rear, the more the inside front can work.
I run slight toe-out up front, slight toe-in out back. I havent played with it nearly as much over the last couple years because I have so many other variable most don't have control over or at least not this level of control. But I see no reason to run toe out in the rear.
I run slight toe-out up front, slight toe-in out back. I havent played with it nearly as much over the last couple years because I have so many other variable most don't have control over or at least not this level of control. But I see no reason to run toe out in the rear.
Was a trick given to me by an old dog down here who races an evo and done rally for years. his thing is on rails. Cant add more rear spring im already on 21kg rear springs haha.
Video of the old fella in the evo absolutely eating a WRX round the inside of a corner thats notorious for understeer.
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#504
Heh, fair enough. You're in the realm of stiff enough in the rear, though IB4 Marshal says you can still go more
Still feels quite a bit like a bandaid. I would say in Marshals case its also a bandaid but only because he's living within the rules to properly fix the car. Might be wrong, maybe he'll set me straight
Still feels quite a bit like a bandaid. I would say in Marshals case its also a bandaid but only because he's living within the rules to properly fix the car. Might be wrong, maybe he'll set me straight
#506
EvoM Guru
They are similar enough i guess. slight differences but not significant. I personally found the toe out on the rear to be a huge improvement over 2mm toe in i used to run.
I think my limiting factor Dallas is that im still on Tein monoflex shocks which cant be revalved. i think once i upgrade shocks to something decent ill find the car completely different again which is the plan over the next couple months.
You lot must be getting excited with summer coming up haha. winter rebuild time for me
I think my limiting factor Dallas is that im still on Tein monoflex shocks which cant be revalved. i think once i upgrade shocks to something decent ill find the car completely different again which is the plan over the next couple months.
You lot must be getting excited with summer coming up haha. winter rebuild time for me
#508
Evolved Member
Been mocking up the oil tank for the dry sump system... Not having the ABS there helps..
The following 2 users liked this post by kikiturbo:
alpinaturbo (Apr 18, 2019),
griceiv (Apr 18, 2019)
#509
EvoM Guru
Dont forget you need to run a vent line into it from the head then out of it off the top to a catch can also.
#510
Evolved Member
engine bay - because it is close to the oil pump and also because it is a road car.... if it was a race car it would be somewhere in the passenger footwell probably..
This is just a quick mockup to check for clearence, space available and volume.. Top part will be a the air / oil separator for the oil coming from scavenge pumps and will be round, and the part on the right is the final air/oil separator / catch tank that is then vented into the intake. I aim for about 6 litres of oil in the tank plus ample space for its volume growth..
As for the venting of the cam cover.. I will make a provision but will try to avoid it and vent the block just trough the scavenge pumps so I can run a partial vacuum in the engine.. If I measure some pressure in the block I will run some sort of one way valve from the block (I have a hole in the block with AN fitting for venting from the block) and connect that to the oil tank... but will measure without it first. I have removed the vent channels from the head so cant really vent from the cam cover anymore..
This is just a quick mockup to check for clearence, space available and volume.. Top part will be a the air / oil separator for the oil coming from scavenge pumps and will be round, and the part on the right is the final air/oil separator / catch tank that is then vented into the intake. I aim for about 6 litres of oil in the tank plus ample space for its volume growth..
As for the venting of the cam cover.. I will make a provision but will try to avoid it and vent the block just trough the scavenge pumps so I can run a partial vacuum in the engine.. If I measure some pressure in the block I will run some sort of one way valve from the block (I have a hole in the block with AN fitting for venting from the block) and connect that to the oil tank... but will measure without it first. I have removed the vent channels from the head so cant really vent from the cam cover anymore..
The following 2 users liked this post by kikiturbo:
alpinaturbo (Apr 19, 2019),
Bee-Raddd (Apr 21, 2019)