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Couple pics from our final round last weekend. ended up blowing the clutch in race 1 which was disappointing but thats racing! Top of the winter to do list is sort out some new struts with decent valving in it as these are still falling over even with 21kg rear springs
As of brand, you mean eccentric bolts?
If so, I have no clue on this one. But we are talking about the bolts here, so I don't think it is going to be that difficult to find something that make sense. They have to be strong and they will have some offset built in. Since, suspension is free there, you can do anything in there. I am sure that combination of top hats and slotted upper holes with eccentric bolts will be easy to figure out.
only thing with slotting the hole is it will move over time esp if ur bashing kerbs etc.
I have offset inserts in mine. have 3 different ones i can swap in and out for different camber. this way because they are a round hole theres no chance of it moving like an eccentric or slotted hole can.
On another note u lot must be getting ready to start racing? whos doing what?
You are right there! If slot is bigger than the bolt part, it would be very difficult to torque it enough so it doesn't move. I guess a set of two or three different bolts with different offsets, but same size as the hole would be the best bet!
You are right there! If slot is bigger than the bolt part, it would be very difficult to torque it enough so it doesn't move. I guess a set of two or three different bolts with different offsets, but same size as the hole would be the best bet!
not quite, so what you need are offset inserts (for want of a better name) dallas should be able to make these.
Essentially they are a sleeve. u drill out the hole in the strut to be bigger say 14mm. then you machine up an insert that slides into the hole with a face on it which has a small m4 hole on the edge. you then drill through into the strut here and thread it then put a cap screw through and use this to stop it from rotating. then in the center of the sleeve u drill ur bolt hole at say m10 or m12. but u offset the hole by xxx amount from the center depending how much camber u want.
If this doesnt make sense i can take a photo of my ones for you.
not quite, so what you need are offset inserts (for want of a better name) dallas should be able to make these.
Essentially they are a sleeve. u drill out the hole in the strut to be bigger say 14mm. then you machine up an insert that slides into the hole with a face on it which has a small m4 hole on the edge. you then drill through into the strut here and thread it then put a cap screw through and use this to stop it from rotating. then in the center of the sleeve u drill ur bolt hole at say m10 or m12. but u offset the hole by xxx amount from the center depending how much camber u want.
If this doesnt make sense i can take a photo of my ones for you.
Looks to me we are talking about the same thing, except you have sleeves and my part is welded to the bolt! I more of an old school and like things welded when they are not suppose to move!
Couple pics from our final round last weekend. ended up blowing the clutch in race 1 which was disappointing but thats racing! Top of the winter to do list is sort out some new struts with decent valving in it as these are still falling over even with 21kg rear springs
Looking good! Man clutch in the first race? Wasn't it slipping beforehand or did it self destruct?
nope wasnt slipping at all during quali i dont think. i was about a second down on pace but i thought it was just the cold track. didnt sound like it was slipping but it may have been ever so slightly.
I only noticed it on the warm up lap when i gave it a boot full it kinda just revved. i thort it was wheel spin so put it onto low boost for the start but nope once i got halfway round the lap it was just all revs and no go. We pulled the box out track side but i didnt have the right plates to replace it with in the end so was a bit of a fail. on of the plates had cracked right through to the center spline which must have done the damage.
Sounds like it mrAWD. pretty much same idea. slotted holes just dont work same as eccentric bolts they end up slipping
I've almost got my car ready for the season. Lining up a couple open track days in the next two months, I'll be at Pike's Peak International Raceway at the end of July for Gridlife and then a few more events after that. Think I'll be keeping this season light so I can start focusing more on business venture stuff.
nope wasnt slipping at all during quali i dont think. i was about a second down on pace but i thought it was just the cold track. didnt sound like it was slipping but it may have been ever so slightly.
I only noticed it on the warm up lap when i gave it a boot full it kinda just revved. i thort it was wheel spin so put it onto low boost for the start but nope once i got halfway round the lap it was just all revs and no go. We pulled the box out track side but i didnt have the right plates to replace it with in the end so was a bit of a fail. on of the plates had cracked right through to the center spline which must have done the damage.
Sounds like it mrAWD. pretty much same idea. slotted holes just dont work same as eccentric bolts they end up slipping
its a tilton twin hydraulic. They arent sprung so eventually the plates just crack. that clutch did a season and a half + offseason testing so not too bad. Will get into the habit of putting fresh plates in every season as its the 2nd time its happened on a tilton and ive also had a similar quartermaster do the same. asked the supplier and yea he said they do eventually crack due to having no springs to dampen them.
Annoying too cause its so unpredictable they just break. last time it was on the dyno so not as bad but yea this one ruined our weekend a bit.
its a tilton twin hydraulic. They arent sprung so eventually the plates just crack. that clutch did a season and a half + offseason testing so not too bad. Will get into the habit of putting fresh plates in every season as its the 2nd time its happened on a tilton and ive also had a similar quartermaster do the same. asked the supplier and yea he said they do eventually crack due to having no springs to dampen them.
Annoying too cause its so unpredictable they just break. last time it was on the dyno so not as bad but yea this one ruined our weekend a bit.
If you know TRE aka Jon you know his work. He talked my ear off for a combined total of AT LEAST 5 hours about "these * that run unsprung uber plate clutches". He's a straight shooter and convinced me to go from a Twin (which I loved) back to a HD single (which I don't). My max tune as we discussed earlier is around 400+ and it still holds well. Reason being is that the twins literally destroy the input shaft, especially unsprung, and the singles don't. He has dozens of pics of proof, so some food for thought while you have it open.
I spoke to a friend who is "on the other side" of Evo Spectrum, 900whp daily driver and 1/2 mile races. A guy who is no stranger to dropping a clutch and lighting up all 4.
He said that Exedy Twin is prone to input shaft damage for cars with 700whp and more, dropping clutches etc.
And, not to break the input shaft, to wear it out sooner.
So notion that Exedy Twin is somehow inadequate, may be reflection of TRE's Jon's customer base majority, not your typical road racer.
yea sprung twins generally snap the springs off on a high power application. im 700hp ATW with sticky slicks on so kind of the extreme end of the spectrum.
I totally agree with what Jon is telling you for your application. although ive had lots of issues with exedy products and the exedy dealer in nz is a dodgy bull**** artist and id never give him my business again haha. Basically inspected a clutch of mine from them that had been setup incorrectly by a workshop. said it had been incorrectly setup in writing, then found out it was his mates workshop and changed his story,
I also snapped the fingers off 2 of their release bearings and each time i took them to him hes like ooooo never seen that before thats a first!
Anyway the main advantage of the tilton/QM clutches is u get a push type clutch rather than pull type which i personally believe is the better system.
Luckily i have a sequential which has a fancy shiny input shaft anyway but i never had issues with the stock box either.
HD single is probably fine for your application although id prob go away from exedy as their gear just seems to be junk. think i went through 3 of their large single plate clutches in quick succession before ditching and going for the Tilton
Apr 29, 2019, 02:13 AM
