Sup w/them 2024 Summer Projects?
#5506
Evolved Member
iTrader: (20)
You are more than welcome to keep the balance shafts in your engine, they have their place especially if the car is just a daily driver, but don't go spreading false information and telling people blatantly wrong information by saying that they will damage their engine by removing the balance shafts.
#5507
Evolving Member
I just picked up a used Tanabe 2.75" DP, Ultimate Racing 3" HFC and a AEM X-series WB. The car already has a Blitz FMIC, Nisei LICP and HKS Super Turbo CBE and I need to find a way to get a Grimmspeed 3-port BCS and OmniPower 3-bar MAP sensor to CA so I can start tuning it. I'm sort of following an FQ360+ build sheet so I'm hoping to get about 300whp/300wtq on 91 with all of these mods. I've driven a stock Evo 9 for 2 and a half years and it's time for some more power and response. You guys think this is doable on 91 and stock injectors?
Last edited by Spooled_IX; Aug 9, 2023 at 09:36 PM.
#5508
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by RallySport9
You make valid and true points, and for a car not doing many miles/track, drag only. I myself would feel comfortable driving without them. I'm not saying it's gona destroy your car immediately. I just don't believe it's false to say that secondary vibrations cause other long term issues. How is that possible? If the vibration is enough to back out bolts, that's pretty significant.
#5509
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (4)
I just picked up a used Tanabe 2.75" DP, Ultimate Racing 3" HFC and a AEM X-series WB. The car already has a Blitz FMIC, Nisei LICP and HKS Super Turbo CBE and I need to find a way to get a Grimmspeed 3-port BCS and OmniPower 3-bar MAP sensor to CA so I can start tuning it(CA bans sales of certain motorsports products that are deemed to violate smog laws). I'm sort of following an FQ360+ build sheet so I'm hoping to get about 300whp/300wtq on 91 with all of these mods. I've driven a stock Evo 9 for 2 and a half years and it's time for some more power and response. You guys think this is doable on 91 and stock injectors?
I'd recommend not aiming too aggressively for specific numbers. See what you get and then back off a little bit for some added safety margin. These cars are fun with the stock turbo uncorked.
The following 2 users liked this post by Construct:
Kevin. (Aug 4, 2023),
Spooled_IX (Aug 4, 2023)
#5511
EvoM Guru
has anybody toyed around with upgrading to 1/2 head studs rather than going down the o ring route? or if youve gone down the o ring route have any of you done the head side rather than the block side?
If you have L19 studs how far have you pushed them?
If you have L19 studs how far have you pushed them?
#5514
EvoM Guru
As i understand it the main issue is generally the boost level presses into the head and the material around the nut/washer compresses causing the head to lift off the block.
https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop/...ldered-dowels/
#5515
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Bee-Raddd
has anybody toyed around with upgrading to 1/2 head studs rather than going down the o ring route? or if youve gone down the o ring route have any of you done the head side rather than the block side?
If you have L19 studs how far have you pushed them?
If you have L19 studs how far have you pushed them?
Block or head, take your pick. It's all works well. L19's torqued to 100ftlbs with the oversized nut and .9" washers and oring will hold a lot.
The following users liked this post:
TimC909 (Aug 7, 2023)
#5516
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (2)
I generally avoid L19 just because of how corrosion prone the material is. It's a fairly exotic tool steel and when tool steels like it corrode they form weak points in the corrosion and the material doesn't stretch, it snaps.
I recall watching an HPA interview with an engineer who was involved with RX cars that were 4G powered and were making some insane torque at lower RPM and the only way they could keep the deck of the block from flexing was basically adding a thicker deck plate between the block and head.
Edit: here it is
Last edited by Ayoustin; Aug 7, 2023 at 08:14 AM.
#5517
EvoM Guru
Oversized head studs aren't worth the effort. Grab some 625+ studs and call it a day. With o-rings those will hold 1000+.
I generally avoid L19 just because of how corrosion prone the material is. It's a fairly exotic tool steel and when tool steels like it corrode they form weak points in the corrosion and the material doesn't stretch, it snaps.
Depends on who you talk to. The deck on a 4G block isn't crazy thick but still thicker than most. But clamping force is clamping force, whether you get it from stronger materials or larger fasteners, they both deform the deck after a certain point. The bigger issue than block deck thickness is how deep, or not deep, the studs thread into the block. The threads aren't that far below the surface of the deck which forces the deck to deform more easily. If you look at most modern engines the fastener threads for the head fasteners are a good 4-6" below the surface of the deck and aftermarket head studs are like twice as long as 4G head studs. This is where being an iron block is advantageous because it'd be far worse if the threads were this close to the deck in an aluminum block but the principles still apply. Unfortunately I don't think the head fastener threads can be made any lower in the block without breaking into the crankcase.
I recall watching an HPA interview with an engineer who was involved with RX cars that were 4G powered and were making some insane torque at lower RPM and the only way they could keep the deck of the block from flexing was basically adding a thicker deck plate between the block and head.
Edit: here it is
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3wGe...ormanceAcademy
I generally avoid L19 just because of how corrosion prone the material is. It's a fairly exotic tool steel and when tool steels like it corrode they form weak points in the corrosion and the material doesn't stretch, it snaps.
Depends on who you talk to. The deck on a 4G block isn't crazy thick but still thicker than most. But clamping force is clamping force, whether you get it from stronger materials or larger fasteners, they both deform the deck after a certain point. The bigger issue than block deck thickness is how deep, or not deep, the studs thread into the block. The threads aren't that far below the surface of the deck which forces the deck to deform more easily. If you look at most modern engines the fastener threads for the head fasteners are a good 4-6" below the surface of the deck and aftermarket head studs are like twice as long as 4G head studs. This is where being an iron block is advantageous because it'd be far worse if the threads were this close to the deck in an aluminum block but the principles still apply. Unfortunately I don't think the head fastener threads can be made any lower in the block without breaking into the crankcase.
I recall watching an HPA interview with an engineer who was involved with RX cars that were 4G powered and were making some insane torque at lower RPM and the only way they could keep the deck of the block from flexing was basically adding a thicker deck plate between the block and head.
Edit: here it is
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3wGe...ormanceAcademy
#5518
Evolving Member
iTrader: (12)
You make valid and true points, and for a car not doing many miles/track, drag only. I myself would feel comfortable driving without them. I'm not saying it's gona destroy your car immediately. I just don't believe it's false to say that secondary vibrations cause other long term issues. How is that possible? If the vibration is enough to back out bolts, that's pretty significant.
#5519
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (2)
summer project ugh
sadly, i got forced into rebuilding my current motor a bit too early, was planning it until after that nats. so this is the buschur 2.0 short block package, built 2019, didnt race during the pandemic, so I got 1.5years of autox + 2 lite time attack days *sigh*. oil pump was new, changed brad penn oil frequently and it doesnt smell e85. i got a spun #4 rod bearing... is 8200rpm rev limit the culprit here?
sadly, i got forced into rebuilding my current motor a bit too early, was planning it until after that nats. so this is the buschur 2.0 short block package, built 2019, didnt race during the pandemic, so I got 1.5years of autox + 2 lite time attack days *sigh*. oil pump was new, changed brad penn oil frequently and it doesnt smell e85. i got a spun #4 rod bearing... is 8200rpm rev limit the culprit here?
#5520
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
No, the #4 rod is the last to get oil. Likely a starvation issue. Post pics of all the bearings. I'm sure the others show evidence of starvation as well.