Construct

iTrader: (4)

Well it's not winter for some of us any more. I see your winter projects are starting right on time, though.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

The new shop I'm talking to said the same and also when someone forcibly installed it, whatever that means. I did find a few more issues on how my car was put together by the previous big name shop so I think I'll be trying the new shop. Hoping to be back in action soon

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

small news here - swapped in my 10's for 11's in the rear, so running 8/11 with tanabe hollow front and WL 26mm rear on full soft. most guys recommended 12 in the rear.. may work up to it, but pretty happy with how the 11's felt so far, will see on track tomorrow

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I'm gonna take my my turd back apart this month.

Construct

iTrader: (4)

I'm still running 700/850 (about 12.5K / 15K) on track. I suppose I should swap back down to the softer 10-12 range to try it out.

I've enjoyed the stiffer setup for both autocross and light track (HPDE only) so far. The only exception might have been a rainy trackcross event where I definitely would have preferred a softer setup.

Bee-Raddd

Haha yes the car is in a million bits currently.

Box out also in next couple days. needs a new 6th gear zzzz. tuner only set up 1st to 5th on the flat shift setup so 6th is ruined.

I thought being summer u guys would be posting more! im having withdrawls hahaha trying to live through u lot for winter

kaj

iTrader: (60)

They probably mean the bolts were used to pull the transmission into place as opposed to how most of us do it: place and mate the trans by hand until it seats & thread bolts in by hand.
Sounds like a rush and/or lazy job.

alpinaturbo

iTrader: (5)

Kyoo,

So how was it today with 8/11 spring rates, and the Hallow Tanabe up front, and WL 26mm rear?

What size is the Tanabe hallow up front? 26mm or 27mm or?


I would love to hear from track-goers what spring rates they use? Including those that used Dallas' uprights, to maybe spot the difference.
I saw Construct uses 12.5/15kg rates. That sounds like proper track setup that is challenging to use on daily basis over rough local roads.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I'm at 9/10 and have some pretty decent tire wear at the possible expense of a bit of performance. I plan to revalve and go with the basic 10/12 to reduce body roll and sharpen the feel of the car (I assume). My lap times don't seem to suffer much..but now I'm not too worried about making tires last extra long, so we'll see how it goes.

Edit: for track use, not autox.

Bee-Raddd

i use 16 and 20kg currently. but might go down slightly with the new shocks from Dallas. will try it on 16 and 20 first then might go 14 18

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Drop the front, leave the rear

Bee-Raddd

so go softer in the front u reckon? 14kg fronts? i do have a pair there...

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

At least with my uprights, car wants more rear spring for sure. You can do things like increased rear camber and toe in to keep things stable but more rear spring will improve the front grip.

With stock uprights, I'd still do the same thing but I'd raise the front to more like 26.5-26.75 ground to fender assuming 25.3" tire and more like 25.5-25.75 in the rear. If you add my front setup, then slam the front as low as you possibly can for tire clearance. Once you add the rear, even front/rear but still running rear spring 25-50% higher

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Mostly agree, for flat lots you deff need the spring to get the rotation on point with the added front grip of his setup. However on tracks especially ones with elevation you want a slightly softer then normal so that the rear "squats" and makes the tires bite. When I ran above 12k in the rear it was rather unstable coming out of 5 at road atlanta which isn't a corner you want to do that in. Talking to Marty who's also a regular road racer he went even softer then I and I watched him pull on the mustangs ripping out of the same corner which of course leads to a straight. Then we go to places like Sebring which is broken concrete so hard springs equal bad things. Mind you this is on DOT's.

With slicks, especially if your gonna go more narrow, I think 15/17 would be a happy medium. My slick setup is 12/14

Construct

iTrader: (4)

It's stiff, but it's not unlivable on average roads around here as long as I dodge any major holes or dips.

I daily drove the car like that for a few years. I still enjoy driving it on the street once a week now that I have a separate DD. I don't know if I could tolerate much higher spring rates on the street, though.