Sup w/them 2024 Summer Projects?
#6003
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Yeah that's a first for me.
#6008
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
you’re in the Motorsports section. Our evo running ratio is lower than the standard population haha
Aiming to build the most comfortable street evo. Every bushing on this car is pretty much shot so I have my work cut out for me. This is good info.
I'm not ready for the track yet as I feel like I'd need a completely different suspension set up and would like SSB uprights. Not a brand ***** per say but no way I'm running anything Megan Racing lol
I'm not ready for the track yet as I feel like I'd need a completely different suspension set up and would like SSB uprights. Not a brand ***** per say but no way I'm running anything Megan Racing lol
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Kevin. (Apr 4, 2024)
#6009
Evolved Member
I would still check if the input shaft circlip is seated, as that you can do without opening the box..
#6010
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (2)
check out my bad luck with this damned car. my engine has been rebuilt again but now I have this bs phantom knock issue, exactly the same issue I just found searching the forums. fresh engine install seems to be common in these scenarios
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tom-knock.html
now i'm being forced to try haltech as last resort. does that make sense to anyone? is there a bright side to this? and yes, there were some inexperienced(IMO) techs that worked on removal/installation of the motor ugh
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tom-knock.html
now i'm being forced to try haltech as last resort. does that make sense to anyone? is there a bright side to this? and yes, there were some inexperienced(IMO) techs that worked on removal/installation of the motor ugh
#6011
Evolved Member
Lots of issues here with all kind of EVOs - let me add a bit more to it, luckily not as bad as some others!
Since I had issue with tire show not being able to take the lug nuts off of my car, I did go through the work and ended up replacing front ones with ARP studs, while rears decided to let go of the grip on those nuts and all of them are off. Using induction heating gun helped a ton and I have only good things to say about it. For about $250 that they go on Amazon, it is worth it for sure!
So, I managed to go back to the tire show and they finally swapped the tires and they were suppose to do alignment as well. What I was told when I came to pick the car up was that both front tie rod ends where not cooperating and they couldn't adjust them on either side. Surprisingly, they said they heated it up a bit and managed to adjust it a bit, but not all the way. Kind of puzzling there about what the hack was going on.
Then they couldn't do the rear because cam bolts on the long arm are bad on both car sides and need to be replaced.
So, I ended up with this:
All that show could do here
I guess, I need to go back to dealer to look for more parts...
Anyone knows if those tie rods could be freed up or I should just get a new pair of those too?
Since I had issue with tire show not being able to take the lug nuts off of my car, I did go through the work and ended up replacing front ones with ARP studs, while rears decided to let go of the grip on those nuts and all of them are off. Using induction heating gun helped a ton and I have only good things to say about it. For about $250 that they go on Amazon, it is worth it for sure!
So, I managed to go back to the tire show and they finally swapped the tires and they were suppose to do alignment as well. What I was told when I came to pick the car up was that both front tie rod ends where not cooperating and they couldn't adjust them on either side. Surprisingly, they said they heated it up a bit and managed to adjust it a bit, but not all the way. Kind of puzzling there about what the hack was going on.
Then they couldn't do the rear because cam bolts on the long arm are bad on both car sides and need to be replaced.
So, I ended up with this:
All that show could do here
I guess, I need to go back to dealer to look for more parts...
Anyone knows if those tie rods could be freed up or I should just get a new pair of those too?
#6014
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
check out my bad luck with this damned car. my engine has been rebuilt again but now I have this bs phantom knock issue, exactly the same issue I just found searching the forums. fresh engine install seems to be common in these scenarios
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tom-knock.html
now i'm being forced to try haltech as last resort. does that make sense to anyone? is there a bright side to this? and yes, there were some inexperienced(IMO) techs that worked on removal/installation of the motor ugh
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tom-knock.html
now i'm being forced to try haltech as last resort. does that make sense to anyone? is there a bright side to this? and yes, there were some inexperienced(IMO) techs that worked on removal/installation of the motor ugh
The fix in that thread was the engine harness, which was likely damaged. I would have the shop check that first. The haltech is a great improvement, but if the something in the harness for the knock sesnor is messed up, the haltech will get the same false knock readings.
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ViciousLSD (Apr 5, 2024)
#6015
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Lots of issues here with all kind of EVOs - let me add a bit more to it, luckily not as bad as some others!
Since I had issue with tire show not being able to take the lug nuts off of my car, I did go through the work and ended up replacing front ones with ARP studs, while rears decided to let go of the grip on those nuts and all of them are off. Using induction heating gun helped a ton and I have only good things to say about it. For about $250 that they go on Amazon, it is worth it for sure!
So, I managed to go back to the tire show and they finally swapped the tires and they were suppose to do alignment as well. What I was told when I came to pick the car up was that both front tie rod ends where not cooperating and they couldn't adjust them on either side. Surprisingly, they said they heated it up a bit and managed to adjust it a bit, but not all the way. Kind of puzzling there about what the hack was going on.
Then they couldn't do the rear because cam bolts on the long arm are bad on both car sides and need to be replaced.
So, I ended up with this:
All that show could do here
I guess, I need to go back to dealer to look for more parts...
Anyone knows if those tie rods could be freed up or I should just get a new pair of those too?
Since I had issue with tire show not being able to take the lug nuts off of my car, I did go through the work and ended up replacing front ones with ARP studs, while rears decided to let go of the grip on those nuts and all of them are off. Using induction heating gun helped a ton and I have only good things to say about it. For about $250 that they go on Amazon, it is worth it for sure!
So, I managed to go back to the tire show and they finally swapped the tires and they were suppose to do alignment as well. What I was told when I came to pick the car up was that both front tie rod ends where not cooperating and they couldn't adjust them on either side. Surprisingly, they said they heated it up a bit and managed to adjust it a bit, but not all the way. Kind of puzzling there about what the hack was going on.
Then they couldn't do the rear because cam bolts on the long arm are bad on both car sides and need to be replaced.
So, I ended up with this:
All that show could do here
I guess, I need to go back to dealer to look for more parts...
Anyone knows if those tie rods could be freed up or I should just get a new pair of those too?
Your car is a 2010, so this isn't uncommon. I'm sure with the mileage you could use new inner/outer tie rod ends anwyas.
It's also commmon for the rear eccentric to freeze up. I'd replace the toe and camber arms so you can install lockouts and then adjust with the arm.