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Old Jun 3, 2024, 11:34 AM
  #6121  
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Originally Posted by griceiv
it is a question of if you turn hard enough on track to unload the inside rear. If the rear gets light you need the high preload to keep the diff working. the ramp angle is not the primary difference between the F and FG versions.
i do unload the inside rear on track as well. higher preload may make up a little for any stability lost going from 1.5 to 1-way, i assume
Old Jun 3, 2024, 08:11 PM
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How you get corner exit rotation is by applying force to the outside rear tire. When the inside rear tire is in the air the only amount of torque the outside wheel can put down is equal to the preload of the diff. This is why we use the gymkhana diff.

That amount of preload does require you to lift the inside tire on tight turns but if you aren't doing that you have other issues (The pejorative "you").

Understeer seems to be cause by the center diff locking up due to inside rear or front wheel spin binding the front/rear together. And like turning a 4x4 truck locked on pavement doesnt work, its fighting high grip AWD rally cars as well.
Old Jun 4, 2024, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
How you get corner exit rotation is by applying force to the outside rear tire. When the inside rear tire is in the air the only amount of torque the outside wheel can put down is equal to the preload of the diff. This is why we use the gymkhana diff.

That amount of preload does require you to lift the inside tire on tight turns but if you aren't doing that you have other issues (The pejorative "you").

Understeer seems to be cause by the center diff locking up due to inside rear or front wheel spin binding the front/rear together. And like turning a 4x4 truck locked on pavement doesnt work, its fighting high grip AWD rally cars as well.
I've actually always been confused by this. re: the preload. simplifying it, if we have a rwd car with one tire on ice and one tire on tarmac, the max the tire on tarmac can receive is the preload amount? I thought with, for example, WOT, that both tires will lock, and the diff will force the tire on the tarmac to spin at the same speed as the tire on ice, meaning both get the same power, but essentially torque is shifted to the tire on the tarmac and that's how the power transfer works. whereas preload is just how fast the diff will respond and how much breakaway torque is needed to allow the tires to turn at a different speed, which also essentially provides some additional stability.

In that example scenario, ice would be equivalent to one tire in the air, right? As soon as you accelerate and the tire touches down, you should get more torque transfer anyway, and that's when you want the power-on rotation. Before that, one tire in the air should essentially help corner-entry rotation, no? especially with a 1-way where there's no attempted locking between rear tires, where the lifted tire should basically be stopped when in the air.

re: the ACD's actions, I don't know but I've got the ER tune and I think we're in agreement that the center diff should more or less be open on turn-in, maybe minmal lock on braking for stability/max braking but should be open as you turn the wheel without gas, locking as you add gas.
Old Jun 4, 2024, 08:40 AM
  #6124  
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In your example, the tire on ICE (assuming pure zero grip) will spin equal to the grip tire until the torque to the side with grip exceeds preload. Then any extra applied torque will just increase speed of the ICE tire. In reality the ice has some amount of friction and will create more lockup of course.

The reason for preload is so we can get on throttle as early as possible. Which is when the inside rear is in the air. Yes it will set down once you have enough acceleration, but with low preload the acceleration limit before spinning is easily exceeded before touch-down. IIRC, the low preload versions are around 30-40 ft-lbs and the gymkhana version is 90-100 ft-lbs. Since its split front/rear assuming no slip, then thats ~75 ft-lbs or 190ft-lbs for the two diffs you can put down before the inside lets go.

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Old Jun 4, 2024, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
In your example, the tire on ICE (assuming pure zero grip) will spin equal to the grip tire until the torque to the side with grip exceeds preload. Then any extra applied torque will just increase speed of the ICE tire. In reality the ice has some amount of friction and will create more lockup of course.

The reason for preload is so we can get on throttle as early as possible. Which is when the inside rear is in the air. Yes it will set down once you have enough acceleration, but with low preload the acceleration limit before spinning is easily exceeded before touch-down. IIRC, the low preload versions are around 30-40 ft-lbs and the gymkhana version is 90-100 ft-lbs. Since its split front/rear assuming no slip, then thats ~75 ft-lbs or 190ft-lbs for the two diffs you can put down before the inside lets go.
Interesting. Once the tire touches down though, and you're on power, the diff functions "as expected" and the outside tire will still have more grip than the inside, so more torque goes to the outside, creating the power oversteer right? likewise with the front diff, outside tire receiving more torque.
Old Jun 5, 2024, 06:26 AM
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so twice in a row now after an event the o2 sensor on the car has failed. I never had an issue on my old aem wideband, and i only changed bc the shop recommended i get a newer, "better" wideband. it uses a bosch lsu 4.9 or something, and it's twice now. 1,000 mile trip home, driving all around, all good - but as soon as I have an event, right after - the o2 sensor fails. Anyone have any recommendations?
Old Jun 5, 2024, 09:14 AM
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From what little I know, the 4.9 is very sensitive to the heater control but when done right (like an OEM application) its very robust. The older 4.2 seems to be a bit more robust but not as accurate, or maybe it wasnt as fast?

Not an expert in it of course, just going off foggy memory. I have a 4.2 thats been in the car for 15 years. Previously at the end of the downpipe but now in the o2 housing. But now that Im talking about it, I'll be keeping a spare in the trailer.
Old Jun 5, 2024, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
From what little I know, the 4.9 is very sensitive to the heater control but when done right (like an OEM application) its very robust. The older 4.2 seems to be a bit more robust but not as accurate, or maybe it wasnt as fast?

Not an expert in it of course, just going off foggy memory. I have a 4.2 thats been in the car for 15 years. Previously at the end of the downpipe but now in the o2 housing. But now that Im talking about it, I'll be keeping a spare in the trailer.
4.2 was robust but not as fast. As if I needed the extra speed.

not sure what to do about the 4.9 if it is gonna keep failing event after event, extra speed is pointless. I also had a 4.2 int he car for the past 10 years, i shouldnt have listened to the shop to switch
Old Jun 5, 2024, 11:45 AM
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Did they change out the controller too? Like, is it suppose to have a 4.2 and they just swapped in a 4.9 or did they change to a completely difference gauge/controller?
Old Jun 5, 2024, 11:47 AM
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recommended a whole new gauge and all. i'm going to switch it back to a 4.2 wideband gauge & sensor, i don't really care about the speed i just want it to stop failing after each and every event.
Old Jun 5, 2024, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by kyoo
so twice in a row now after an event the o2 sensor on the car has failed. I never had an issue on my old aem wideband, and i only changed bc the shop recommended i get a newer, "better" wideband. it uses a bosch lsu 4.9 or something, and it's twice now. 1,000 mile trip home, driving all around, all good - but as soon as I have an event, right after - the o2 sensor fails. Anyone have any recommendations?
Innovate? I'm on my 3rd sensor.
Old Jun 5, 2024, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
Innovate? I'm on my 3rd sensor.
yep, mtx-l.

gonna reorder my trusty autometer 4378. might be slower but never had an issue. it's just measuring afrs and won't impact tune or anything to switch the gauge & sensor, right?
Old Jun 5, 2024, 12:52 PM
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PS I saw a JDM evo 4 on the queensborough bridge riding home yesterday. pretty cool, never seen one in person
Old Jun 5, 2024, 01:16 PM
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I've been a fan of the AEM widebands. They don't do everything perfect, but have had really good luck with both versions I've had (2 different cars).
Old Jun 5, 2024, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Did they change out the controller too? Like, is it suppose to have a 4.2 and they just swapped in a 4.9 or did they change to a completely difference gauge/controller?
The plug is different. So installing the wrong sensor for the controller would take some special effort.


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