Sup w/them 2024 Summer Projects?
#6151
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
I believe water plus poor heater circuit control is likely the reason they fail. see here:
https://www.nzefi.com/bosch-lsu-wide...-applications/
https://www.nzefi.com/bosch-lsu-wide...-applications/
#6152
Evolving Member
#6153
Evolving Member
iTrader: (7)
@kyoo 2 things sir-
Wideband- I would move the sensor from the o2 housing to the downpipe. My sensor is right under the oil pan. havent ever had a sensor die in the evo. I think the o2 housing will get too hot. might just try to relocate it.
The noise in your video above, not sure if you rectified it, but it might be a heat shield or something rattling. do you have any heat shields on your exhaust or anywhere else? (not an expert on diff or TC noises, but have had some really odd heat shield rattles at random speed/rpm in the past. might be something to look into!) i would also double check all of your mounts. i had a bolt back out of the rear mount, causing the motor to move and rock. it made some odd noises at times.
Wideband- I would move the sensor from the o2 housing to the downpipe. My sensor is right under the oil pan. havent ever had a sensor die in the evo. I think the o2 housing will get too hot. might just try to relocate it.
The noise in your video above, not sure if you rectified it, but it might be a heat shield or something rattling. do you have any heat shields on your exhaust or anywhere else? (not an expert on diff or TC noises, but have had some really odd heat shield rattles at random speed/rpm in the past. might be something to look into!) i would also double check all of your mounts. i had a bolt back out of the rear mount, causing the motor to move and rock. it made some odd noises at times.
#6154
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
@kyoo 2 things sir-
Wideband- I would move the sensor from the o2 housing to the downpipe. My sensor is right under the oil pan. havent ever had a sensor die in the evo. I think the o2 housing will get too hot. might just try to relocate it.
The noise in your video above, not sure if you rectified it, but it might be a heat shield or something rattling. do you have any heat shields on your exhaust or anywhere else? (not an expert on diff or TC noises, but have had some really odd heat shield rattles at random speed/rpm in the past. might be something to look into!) i would also double check all of your mounts. i had a bolt back out of the rear mount, causing the motor to move and rock. it made some odd noises at times.
Wideband- I would move the sensor from the o2 housing to the downpipe. My sensor is right under the oil pan. havent ever had a sensor die in the evo. I think the o2 housing will get too hot. might just try to relocate it.
The noise in your video above, not sure if you rectified it, but it might be a heat shield or something rattling. do you have any heat shields on your exhaust or anywhere else? (not an expert on diff or TC noises, but have had some really odd heat shield rattles at random speed/rpm in the past. might be something to look into!) i would also double check all of your mounts. i had a bolt back out of the rear mount, causing the motor to move and rock. it made some odd noises at times.
wideband - nah it's annoying, 4.2 worked bulletproof, not sure why the shop made me switch but i don't want to deal with it again.
#6155
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (4)
If the 4.2 was working, then no reason not to continue using it.
The O2 housing is a tough spot for the wideband sensor. They do better when they're closer to vertical. The article Grice posted above has more details, but they're sensitive to condensation which can collect on the sensor element if it's in an unfavorable orientation.
The O2 housing is a tough spot for the wideband sensor. They do better when they're closer to vertical. The article Grice posted above has more details, but they're sensitive to condensation which can collect on the sensor element if it's in an unfavorable orientation.
#6156
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (2)
Gents, I'm doing an unscheduled t-belt job since it looks like my intake cam gear skipped 3 teeth while trying to start the car which I later learned had a broken 12v wire to coil#4 (broke during autox run). my ATI damper came off with the crank gear, no idea why its stuck together. qq on this label. is the impact on the timing handled thru the tune, and I still use the timing marks when putting all this together? TIA
#6157
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
71hta or mhi18k for an autox car? bummer about no ball bearing for either option. 51lbs for the 71hta, 54 for the mhi18k. i assume it's slightly less power & quicker spool vs more power slower spool? leaning toward the 71hta, seems like an easy way to upgrade. My turbo feels tired.
#6158
Gents, I'm doing an unscheduled t-belt job since it looks like my intake cam gear skipped 3 teeth while trying to start the car which I later learned had a broken 12v wire to coil#4 (broke during autox run). my ATI damper came off with the crank gear, no idea why its stuck together. qq on this label. is the impact on the timing handled thru the tune, and I still use the timing marks when putting all this together? TIA
With mivec, you will lose 2deg at the top end of the range, so -3.5 to 26.5 and this will need to be changed in the tune or its possible to have a CEL when it tries and target higher than 26.5 and cant reach it. I only saw this when cruising on freeway in 5th and you roll into throttle going up a hill. Its an easy change to the min/max range.
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ViciousLSD (Jun 21, 2024)
#6159
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (4)
Gents, I'm doing an unscheduled t-belt job since it looks like my intake cam gear skipped 3 teeth while trying to start the car which I later learned had a broken 12v wire to coil#4 (broke during autox run). my ATI damper came off with the crank gear, no idea why its stuck together.
The following users liked this post:
ViciousLSD (Jun 21, 2024)
#6160
71hta or mhi18k for an autox car? bummer about no ball bearing for either option. 51lbs for the 71hta, 54 for the mhi18k. i assume it's slightly less power & quicker spool vs more power slower spool? leaning toward the 71hta, seems like an easy way to upgrade. My turbo feels tired.
#6161
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by kyoo
71hta or mhi18k for an autox car? bummer about no ball bearing for either option. 51lbs for the 71hta, 54 for the mhi18k. i assume it's slightly less power & quicker spool vs more power slower spool? leaning toward the 71hta, seems like an easy way to upgrade. My turbo feels tired.
#6162
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (4)
71hta or mhi18k for an autox car? bummer about no ball bearing for either option. 51lbs for the 71hta, 54 for the mhi18k. i assume it's slightly less power & quicker spool vs more power slower spool? leaning toward the 71hta, seems like an easy way to upgrade. My turbo feels tired.
I would lean toward the smaller 71HTA. In my admittedly very limited experience in other people's Evos, 2.0L builds with more than ~50lb/min turbos started to feel more laggy than I would want for AutoX.
I agree that it's too bad both are journal bearing. Having proper twin scroll housings is a huge advantage, though.
The more modern, albeit more expensive, option in this range is GCG's G25-550 stock frame turbo: https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-g25...390-evo9a.html Note price is in AUD, so it's more like $3400 USD. Still a lot more than an MHI 18K and substantially more than a 71HTA supercore, but it would be at the top of my list for stock frame ~50lb/min turbos for AutoX use.
#6163
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (4)
The 1.0XTR is a ~48lb/min turbo and you have a 2.3L, right? Given that you find that combo to spool just right for AutoX, I'd be really hesitant to go with a 54 lb/min turbo (18K) on a stock displacement engine.
OTOH, if the car is being built for dual-purpose track duty, the bigger turbo could make more sense.
#6164
I was trying to remember which turbo you had, because your experience is most relevant for AutoX.
The 1.0XTR is a ~48lb/min turbo and you have a 2.3L, right? Given that you find that combo to spool just right for AutoX, I'd be really hesitant to go with a 54 lb/min turbo (18K) on a stock displacement engine.
OTOH, if the car is being built for dual-purpose track duty, the bigger turbo could make more sense.
The 1.0XTR is a ~48lb/min turbo and you have a 2.3L, right? Given that you find that combo to spool just right for AutoX, I'd be really hesitant to go with a 54 lb/min turbo (18K) on a stock displacement engine.
OTOH, if the car is being built for dual-purpose track duty, the bigger turbo could make more sense.
On a 2.2l and I did 420hp on 92oct and 520hp on E85. And that 520 was pretty maxed out up top. Adding timing dropped boost, Pulling timing added boost, but power stayed constant. We're pretty much choked on backpressure at this point Im guessing. Only thing I could consider changing for would be same power, same spool, but less EMAP.
#6165
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (6)
Gents, I'm doing an unscheduled t-belt job since it looks like my intake cam gear skipped 3 teeth while trying to start the car which I later learned had a broken 12v wire to coil#4 (broke during autox run). my ATI damper came off with the crank gear, no idea why its stuck together. qq on this label. is the impact on the timing handled thru the tune, and I still use the timing marks when putting all this together? TIA
The following users liked this post:
ViciousLSD (Jun 21, 2024)