Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Cool, thanks for the thoughts/opinions. Im making a 3d printed bracket to mount by the frame rail with the heat sink facing outward. Will also be able to reach down and get an idea of the heat it makes too.

MrAWD

So, on my last 400 mile trip with 95 degree weather, my AC was barely able to keep up even though I had to run it on max speed for fans. Considering it is 13 years old, it could use some refreshing. All of the local places are asking lots of money re recharge the system. I do see lots of kits for DIY out there as well.

Did anyone try to do any of those kits and is there any info on whether that path is even worth taking. My AC is working, it is just not as cold as it used to be, so I don't want to mess anything up

Thanks for help!
Fedja

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

if you have the AC manifold then its easy to top off with refrigerant (and get an idea of the health of the compressor). those spray can looking things are fine but the 'possible' issue with them is that section of the hose 'might' have air when installed - I have not verified if those hoses are empty(vacuum) when sold. Ideally it should be flushed out with refrigerant

Kevin.

iTrader: (7)

If you wanna DIY I'd use a charging hose and a 12oz self-sealing can of R134a




Evacuate and recharge machines are where it's at tho

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

My buddies Galant VR4 is still running Propane in the AC system .

IIRC its slightly less efficient as R12 but works and has the benefit of burning the POS down if it acts up.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

how would you remove the air from the hose before charging the system? its possible if you have a spare schrader valve
btw i buy these cans in packs of 12 from Samsclub

MrAWD

Do we have any ports already there for hooking up a charging hose or we have to make them ourselves?

Kevin.

iTrader: (7)

Car off, connect the charging hose to the can of R134a refrigerant. Make sure the valve on the hose is closed, attach the quick-connect coupler end of the hose to the low-pressure service port of the vehicle’s A/C system. This port is usually located on the larger diameter tubing between the compressor and evaporator. With the can of refrigerant upright, slightly loosen the hose connection at the can until you hear a hissing sound. This will allow the refrigerant to push out any air trapped in the hose.

Once you see or feel refrigerant escaping, quickly tighten the connection to stop the refrigerant flow. Open the valve on the refrigerant can to start the flow into the A/C system. Start the vehicle and turn on the MAX A/C setting. This helps draw the refrigerant into the system. Shake the can occasionally as the refrigerant is being dispensed, you'll feel the can get cold. Some charging hoses come with gauges you can monitor but many just raw dog. A thermometer in the vents will help gauge cabin temp. I'm sure the FSM has all the HVAC particulars.

This was a good link: https://www.team-bhp.com/news/car-ac...iled-diy-guide

Kevin.

iTrader: (7)

This should have all the Mitsu info you'll need: https://evoscan.com/wp-content/uploa...0000400-55.pdf

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

oh you mean use the refrigerant inside the AC system already to displace the air in the hose. ok i guess that works for that scenario. it would be best to have the AC manifold/tool for small, medium(replacing seals), & large jobs of course, especially when owning several old cars.
I just replaced my compressor with a reman and I was surprised to see that this is the most efficient AC compressor I've ever deal with. the gauges show 25psi on the low side is 250psi on the high side

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

yeah for the CT9A theyre both with light blue caps on the belt side. its not hard, just try not to introduce air into the system. I've used EZ Chill & AC Pro which come with gauges on them

Bee-Raddd

Both work. I think the 2nd option youd need to trigger from ECU. But leaving the OEM box there you can just run the output wires to a plug and straight to the fan.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

to me every metal under the hood gets too hot to touch. I was just adjusting the biss and the strut bar was too hot, with the hood open since cold start.
i read the controller gets stuck to ON when it breaks. Im not sure if 100% of all cases tho

Construct

iTrader: (4)

Still blows my mind that actual professionals need licensing to work with refrigerant, but meanwhile the cans are sold at Walmart to anyone who wants them.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

I dont think this is the one that effects the ozone layer