Sup w/them 2024 Summer Projects?

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Aug 28, 2024, 01:01 PM

#6451

MrAWD

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So, as I mentioned earlier, I need to fix my AYC/ACD pump. Once I take out out and close all disconnected pipes, is it safe to take my time and drive the car without it or that would not be recommended?

Thanks!

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Aug 28, 2024, 05:48 PM

#6452

Dallas J

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ayoustin

I would tear any inner joints apart and thoroughly clean out all of the Redline CV2 in them. The inners and outers require different greases. The outer CVs are good to go with a good NLGI 2 grease like Redline CV2 but the inners are a tripod joint and the moly and EP additives in that grease will keep the needle bearings in the tripods from rolling correctly and make them prone to flat spotting, eventually leading to a dead inner joint. Use either the NKG 302 grease that Mitsu calls for on the inners or an NLGI 1 grease that doesn't have any solid additives like moly. There are more than a few good NLGI 1 greases out there and GKN does make this tripod specific grease too: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=32811

Oh man, I asked a while ago trying to find out what was the proper grease for the axles and this is the first real tech I've seen. So thanks! I'll pull all my axles this winter and clean out the inner cups real well and use one of your recommended NLGI greases.

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Aug 29, 2024, 09:56 AM

#6453

Ayoustin

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No prob. I've been debating going through my axles as well this winter for good measure but probably going to come down to time allotment.

Also when greasing the rollers in the tripod be sure to flush out old grease and pack in new stuff. I'm not sure if the tripods can be disassembled to look at the needle bearings but a few years ago I was taught a cheap easy way to force new grease into a roller with a plastic cup:

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Aug 29, 2024, 09:58 AM

#6454

Evo9isLife

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MrAWD

Yes it will be fine. The ACD will just default to being open diff full time and you will have all 3 lights lit if its not already.

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MrAWD (Aug 29, 2024)

Aug 29, 2024, 05:03 PM

#6455

Dallas J

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ViciousLSD

I bring 1 front and 1 rear used (chinesium) hubs too. with ARP studs

Driving more miles today, sounding like it is probably left rear and not center. Might need to borrow or have that hub on backup just in case.

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Aug 29, 2024, 09:01 PM

#6456

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Dallas J

Driving more miles today, sounding like it is probably left rear and not center. Might need to borrow or have that hub on backup just in case.

it's got a timken bearing now. what about tools? I dont have a cordless impact gun with me but I can bring a corded one. do we need that thing to push the axle? I dont need it because I grease the mating surfaces

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Sep 17, 2024, 11:26 AM

#6457

Bee-Raddd

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bump

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Sep 17, 2024, 11:33 AM

#6458

MrAWD

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Here is a more serious bump!

I am waiting for order from Eastwood for POR type paint (rust encapsulator or something like that), so undercarriage would get some protection due to excessive amount of rust that is there.

Has anyone tried any of these paints that convert rust to something more stable, with any success? Or I am just gona waste my time and money...

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Sep 17, 2024, 01:53 PM

#6459

Ayoustin

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POR15 is a coating to put over converted stuff, you want to actually treat the rust before applying it. This is the best video I've seen on converters

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MrAWD (Sep 17, 2024)

Sep 17, 2024, 02:34 PM

#6460

MrAWD

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After watching video from the above post, this one popped up on the same subject:

I though I will be going PO15 route, but ended with that Encapsulator one instead....well, one way to know

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Sep 17, 2024, 02:59 PM

#6461

kikiturbo

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MrAWD

Here is a more serious bump!

Having used the cars in snow and with salt on the roads, we tend to do quite a bit of underside "refreshment " on our evos..

I do not know what you are planning but what we do over here is first wirebrush to bare metal, apply rust converter on as clean surface as possible, then spray with two pack epoxy zinc primer, seam sealer, then 3M rubber stone chip protection and paint over it... add cavity wax later... It is a bit of a job, but ends up better than factory...

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Sep 17, 2024, 03:14 PM

#6462

MrAWD

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Man, that is some serious stuff there!!

Definitely not on that level for sure. I am just trying to stop rust propagation for at least a while, so racks don't fall off the car on my work commute!!

I have bunch of brushes (plus this set of 5, also from Eastwood) and I will take out as many chunks as I can there. Next step is to clean the surface from anything greasy and I will use another Eastwood product called Pre Paint Prep. After that, I will use that Rust Encapsulator Plus thing

I will try to snap some pictures and share it here!

Last edited by MrAWD; Sep 17, 2024 at 03:24 PM.

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Sep 17, 2024, 04:13 PM

#6463

ViciousLSD

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If I still lived up north, the first thing i would want to protect is the frame and the gas tank using the CRC Corrosion Inhibitor. I'd try to do a methodical under wash as frequently as possible as well

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kikiturbo (Sep 17, 2024)

Sep 17, 2024, 08:02 PM

#6464

Bee-Raddd

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A while back i was talking to a member about carbon fibre doors and they recommended MComposit. Ive been talking to them about ordering some just wanted to see if anybody had purchased any in the past and how they found the quality etc? Also want to make sure they will arrive etc. All Seems legit and what not just thought id ask if theres anybody who has ventured before me.

And if you were who i was talking to feel free to touch base as ive totally forgotten who it was haha

https://mcomposit.com/produkt-katego...hubishi/evo-9/

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