Sup w/them 2024 Summer Projects?
Oct 15, 2019, 04:33 PM
#1036
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Also hit up Chris Barnett on Facebook. He part Evo's out and has usually had whatever I needed.
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kyoo (Oct 15, 2019)
Oct 15, 2019, 07:05 PM
#1037
There's an evo roller for sale for 7k with most of the drivetrain in it on the market here. I'd be willing to help you tow it up from FL where it's at in exchange for some parts off it.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/market/756340
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/market/756340
Oct 15, 2019, 07:38 PM
#1038
Oooo, always wanted to build a red one...take it with the haltec at 7800, sell the rear axels to Bee cause the dudes desperate 
I'll even host the part pulling party here in Atlanta. Wife says you have to like dogs if you wanna stay the night lol.
I'll even host the part pulling party here in Atlanta. Wife says you have to like dogs if you wanna stay the night lol.
Oct 16, 2019, 10:00 AM
#1039
At some point, if you really want a stock body, it might make more sense to strip the mods and sell the car as is, and then get another car. Just something to consider, especially if you’ve kept the stock parts and not invested in modding the chassis itself (cage, etc.).
Oct 16, 2019, 10:49 AM
#1040
probably not an option at my current resource level.
i'm collecting a bunch of parts from chris thanks to LGTD's suggestion but have one question:
i am going to look under the car to see what possibly is ****ed up there. The car drove fine yes, even tracked straight but there is pretty damn strong popping noise at full lock left. i don't know if that would be related to the frame being bent there, but is there anything specific i should look for to replace?
- control arm, bushing, toe arm, axle/cv joint? power steering line even, etc.?
i'm collecting a bunch of parts from chris thanks to LGTD's suggestion but have one question:
i am going to look under the car to see what possibly is ****ed up there. The car drove fine yes, even tracked straight but there is pretty damn strong popping noise at full lock left. i don't know if that would be related to the frame being bent there, but is there anything specific i should look for to replace?
- control arm, bushing, toe arm, axle/cv joint? power steering line even, etc.?
Oct 16, 2019, 11:46 AM
#1041
EvoM Guru
I bit the bullet and purchased new OEM ones hahaha. happily take some spares tho. i could do with the diff mount hangers etc to be honest.
Oct 16, 2019, 11:49 AM
#1042
EvoM Guru
probably not an option at my current resource level.
i'm collecting a bunch of parts from chris thanks to LGTD's suggestion but have one question:
i am going to look under the car to see what possibly is ****ed up there. The car drove fine yes, even tracked straight but there is pretty damn strong popping noise at full lock left. i don't know if that would be related to the frame being bent there, but is there anything specific i should look for to replace?
- control arm, bushing, toe arm, axle/cv joint? power steering line even, etc.?
i'm collecting a bunch of parts from chris thanks to LGTD's suggestion but have one question:
i am going to look under the car to see what possibly is ****ed up there. The car drove fine yes, even tracked straight but there is pretty damn strong popping noise at full lock left. i don't know if that would be related to the frame being bent there, but is there anything specific i should look for to replace?
- control arm, bushing, toe arm, axle/cv joint? power steering line even, etc.?
Easiest way and proper way would be to have somebody do a laser check for symmetry. Lazy way is just check the wheel alignment and if it seems pretty good then sweet. i guess u could set up a string line and make a square around some axle stands and measure the center of the hubs out and make sure its still square also.
Honestly i doubt youve bent anything. ive hit a tyre wall square on the nose at 60kmh and all it did was push the upper rad support back. except i was less lucky and smashed my radiator and intercooler and everything also. my cars still perfectly square.
Oct 16, 2019, 11:50 AM
#1043
EvoM Guru
If it was me, id buy a roller. take all the oem parts off that you need to make urs mint again. Keep ur car as it is and slowly build the roller up with a cage and widebody etc.
Oct 16, 2019, 11:56 AM
#1044
Its likely youve just busted a CV.
Easiest way and proper way would be to have somebody do a laser check for symmetry. Lazy way is just check the wheel alignment and if it seems pretty good then sweet. i guess u could set up a string line and make a square around some axle stands and measure the center of the hubs out and make sure its still square also.
Honestly i doubt youve bent anything. ive hit a tyre wall square on the nose at 60kmh and all it did was push the upper rad support back. except i was less lucky and smashed my radiator and intercooler and everything also. my cars still perfectly square.
Easiest way and proper way would be to have somebody do a laser check for symmetry. Lazy way is just check the wheel alignment and if it seems pretty good then sweet. i guess u could set up a string line and make a square around some axle stands and measure the center of the hubs out and make sure its still square also.
Honestly i doubt youve bent anything. ive hit a tyre wall square on the nose at 60kmh and all it did was push the upper rad support back. except i was less lucky and smashed my radiator and intercooler and everything also. my cars still perfectly square.
they are gong to laser check the frame when the time comes, yes. I'm just collecting parts so i dont have to have the shop purchase the parts from the dealer right then and there. I'll check the cv joint, hopefully that is the cause of the popping.
Last edited by kyoo; Oct 16, 2019 at 12:08 PM.
Oct 16, 2019, 12:57 PM
#1045
Ouch Sam nooooo! Sorry to hear bud thats a huge bummer but glad youre OK!
Judging from the pics youre at close to 10k on the front end alone. Add in rear quarter and there is a good chunk of change hiding under there as well. Couple notes...the clickign noise is prob a CV. Boot is probably ripped from the incident so thats no biggie. Our cars are a unibody so its not really bent frame per se. The vehicle needs to be put on a frame machine and measured with lasers and pulls made if needbe.
Rad core support is most certainly tweaked. Cut that out and weld in new one. Rear quarter should probably be cut out and replaced as well.
It sucks bc your car was so clean but being that youre not going through insurance perhaps finding a clean roller makes the most sense. Drop in your parts and off to the races.
Judging from the pics youre at close to 10k on the front end alone. Add in rear quarter and there is a good chunk of change hiding under there as well. Couple notes...the clickign noise is prob a CV. Boot is probably ripped from the incident so thats no biggie. Our cars are a unibody so its not really bent frame per se. The vehicle needs to be put on a frame machine and measured with lasers and pulls made if needbe.
Rad core support is most certainly tweaked. Cut that out and weld in new one. Rear quarter should probably be cut out and replaced as well.
It sucks bc your car was so clean but being that youre not going through insurance perhaps finding a clean roller makes the most sense. Drop in your parts and off to the races.
Oct 16, 2019, 01:09 PM
#1046
Ouch Sam nooooo! Sorry to hear bud thats a huge bummer but glad youre OK!
Judging from the pics youre at close to 10k on the front end alone. Add in rear quarter and there is a good chunk of change hiding under there as well. Couple notes...the clickign noise is prob a CV. Boot is probably ripped from the incident so thats no biggie. Our cars are a unibody so its not really bent frame per se. The vehicle needs to be put on a frame machine and measured with lasers and pulls made if needbe.
Rad core support is most certainly tweaked. Cut that out and weld in new one. Rear quarter should probably be cut out and replaced as well.
It sucks bc your car was so clean but being that youre not going through insurance perhaps finding a clean roller makes the most sense. Drop in your parts and off to the races.
Judging from the pics youre at close to 10k on the front end alone. Add in rear quarter and there is a good chunk of change hiding under there as well. Couple notes...the clickign noise is prob a CV. Boot is probably ripped from the incident so thats no biggie. Our cars are a unibody so its not really bent frame per se. The vehicle needs to be put on a frame machine and measured with lasers and pulls made if needbe.
Rad core support is most certainly tweaked. Cut that out and weld in new one. Rear quarter should probably be cut out and replaced as well.
It sucks bc your car was so clean but being that youre not going through insurance perhaps finding a clean roller makes the most sense. Drop in your parts and off to the races.
shop did mention the car is unibody so not as big of a deal, vs an actual bent frame. it will be put on a frame machine and put back in shape, but it's heartbreaking man i tell you. so much time effort and $ built into the car. expecting to find more $, yea. and this doesn't even include the headlights, which got hit hard. the tabs on the driver's side broken clean off, ouch. i can't even get the hood open to get off the car right now.
Oct 16, 2019, 01:18 PM
#1047
Yeah that's it although didnt realize it was sold in multiple pieces like that; thought it was the whole assembly. As for part pricing OEM is $$$ so used marketplace will save you a ton. Otherwise hood 1k bumper 1k headlight 1k each etc etc which doesnt even take into account paint and body work. I would get a really good idea of what youre getting yourself into before you start pulling the trigger on parts.
I also still think from an economics perspective finding a roller is the way to go.
I also still think from an economics perspective finding a roller is the way to go.
Oct 16, 2019, 01:35 PM
#1048
Yeah that's it although didnt realize it was sold in multiple pieces like that; thought it was the whole assembly. As for part pricing OEM is $$$ so used marketplace will save you a ton. Otherwise hood 1k bumper 1k headlight 1k each etc etc which doesnt even take into account paint and body work. I would get a really good idea of what youre getting yourself into before you start pulling the trigger on parts.
I also still think from an economics perspective finding a roller is the way to go.
I also still think from an economics perspective finding a roller is the way to go.
but yea, headlights... smh. brackets break and the headlight is toast, like what?
Oct 16, 2019, 02:02 PM
#1049
EvoM Guru
i have a pair of headlights i was going to list for sale locally. maybe make me an offer on them?
Oct 16, 2019, 02:36 PM
#1050
is there anything i need to consider about the car making power etc? probably should do a boost leak test i assume. car ran fine, started up like normal the next day. hopefully power levels don't change