Sup w/them 2024 Summer Projects?
#1066
Mostly curiousity to see how much the extra displacement changes the behavior of the car. This won't be the last motor the car sees so I'd like to try different stuff and see where my preferences fall.
Any forged aftermarket crank is ~$600 regardless of stroke and since I won't be revving past 8k or making over 500whp I don't need anything more fancy than that. Forged crank, some mild rods and pistons, get the block machined, pick up another head, r2 cams and some springs and send it. There's still some details that I'm up in the air about but I've got time to decide.
Any forged aftermarket crank is ~$600 regardless of stroke and since I won't be revving past 8k or making over 500whp I don't need anything more fancy than that. Forged crank, some mild rods and pistons, get the block machined, pick up another head, r2 cams and some springs and send it. There's still some details that I'm up in the air about but I've got time to decide.
#1068
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Dallas J
Just for reference. Mine broke only making ~480hp and revving to 7800.
Aaron's went many years at 750whp+
#1069
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (2)
Regardless, it's getting an aftermarket crank. After my ventures of machining the stock crank I don't want the hassle of possibly risking yet more crank issues with another refreshed stock crank. I'm willing to pay extra if that means increased reliability and I'm not losing seat time.
#1071
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Dallas J
Mine lasted about two years. Just into 3rd season broke where they do, at the 4th rod bearing.
#1072
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (4)
Regardless, it's getting an aftermarket crank. After my ventures of machining the stock crank I don't want the hassle of possibly risking yet more crank issues with another refreshed stock crank. I'm willing to pay extra if that means increased reliability and I'm not losing seat time.
I've been eyeing the K1 100mm crank for an all-out 2.4LR build. Is the K1 stuff worth the extra money over some of the cheaper options?
#1073
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (2)
I haven't really seen any bad stuff about K1 cranks so I wouldn't hesitate to use one. Personally I'll 95% likely be going with Callies. I've seen Manley, Eagle and Callies cranks first hand and the attention to detail on Callies seems to be a little bit better. For anything under 600whp (on a road course car) I don't see any value add with using a billet over a forged crank.
#1074
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by ayoustin
I haven't really seen any bad stuff about K1 cranks so I wouldn't hesitate to use one. Personally I'll 95% likely be going with Callies. I've seen Manley, Eagle and Callies cranks first hand and the attention to detail on Callies seems to be a little bit better. For anything under 600whp (on a road course car) I don't see any value add with using a billet over a forged crank.
Originally Posted by Construct
I'm starting to price out an engine rebuild if it comes down to it.
I've been eyeing the K1 100mm crank for an all-out 2.4LR build. Is the K1 stuff worth the extra money over some of the cheaper options?
I've been eyeing the K1 100mm crank for an all-out 2.4LR build. Is the K1 stuff worth the extra money over some of the cheaper options?
FWIW, ER makes 1400whp with an Eagle forged 88mm crank. So everything I've been building lately has been getting an Eagle and they seem to do well. No issues with machine work. The just need balanced as they only come +/-2%.
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Oct 24, 2019 at 09:35 AM.
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Construct (Oct 24, 2019)
#1077
EvoM Guru
So engine went back in on the weekend and we got gearbox and everything in. its ready to turn key once all the sensors are hooked up etc from the new haltech ecu.
It is sooooooo much better with all the factory wiring gone and the haltech engine loom installed theres just so much extra space ur not tripping over cable looms everywhere and stuff. we had the gearbox hung and fully bolted up in an hour which is probably a new record.
all the interior bits are in now also. new pedal box mounts all painted up. new seat rails painted. pedal box and seat is bolted in. wiring mostly tucked in its final positions etc.
Just got to install my cusco LSD into the rear diff casing now and put some fluids in it then send it off to the tuner for the remainder of the wiring and tune!
Anybody mucked around with setting the backlash on ur diff before? going to have a go at it on this cusco.
It is sooooooo much better with all the factory wiring gone and the haltech engine loom installed theres just so much extra space ur not tripping over cable looms everywhere and stuff. we had the gearbox hung and fully bolted up in an hour which is probably a new record.
all the interior bits are in now also. new pedal box mounts all painted up. new seat rails painted. pedal box and seat is bolted in. wiring mostly tucked in its final positions etc.
Just got to install my cusco LSD into the rear diff casing now and put some fluids in it then send it off to the tuner for the remainder of the wiring and tune!
Anybody mucked around with setting the backlash on ur diff before? going to have a go at it on this cusco.
The following users liked this post:
alpinaturbo (Oct 29, 2019)
#1078
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (6)
So engine went back in on the weekend and we got gearbox and everything in. its ready to turn key once all the sensors are hooked up etc from the new haltech ecu.
It is sooooooo much better with all the factory wiring gone and the haltech engine loom installed theres just so much extra space ur not tripping over cable looms everywhere and stuff. we had the gearbox hung and fully bolted up in an hour which is probably a new record.
all the interior bits are in now also. new pedal box mounts all painted up. new seat rails painted. pedal box and seat is bolted in. wiring mostly tucked in its final positions etc.
Just got to install my cusco LSD into the rear diff casing now and put some fluids in it then send it off to the tuner for the remainder of the wiring and tune!
Anybody mucked around with setting the backlash on ur diff before? going to have a go at it on this cusco.
It is sooooooo much better with all the factory wiring gone and the haltech engine loom installed theres just so much extra space ur not tripping over cable looms everywhere and stuff. we had the gearbox hung and fully bolted up in an hour which is probably a new record.
all the interior bits are in now also. new pedal box mounts all painted up. new seat rails painted. pedal box and seat is bolted in. wiring mostly tucked in its final positions etc.
Just got to install my cusco LSD into the rear diff casing now and put some fluids in it then send it off to the tuner for the remainder of the wiring and tune!
Anybody mucked around with setting the backlash on ur diff before? going to have a go at it on this cusco.