Sup w/them 2024 Summer Projects?
#1276
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Balrok
So Vband, single scroll, EWG? Whatcha expecting boost/power to be at?
Based on Zack's G25-660 making mid-upper 500's on a built 2.0L with stock cams, Evo9.
So, larger turbo, more displacement, bigger cams, mid 600's in the mid 30psi range would be very cool. I expect/hope for it to make 400wtq in the low 4000's, if not by 4000rpm.
#1278
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Dallas J
You sticking with stock ECU?
#1279
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
Nope, not with the diffs super tight right now as they wear in and the R&P of the front and rear diff both new. I want to give at least 100mi before I play.
I can tell you the gymkhana diff is TIGHT. As you can expect with a high preload 1way, even off throttle its popping around corners or even just bends. But it should smooth out as it breaks in, its already quieted down some after only 10miles.
I can tell you the gymkhana diff is TIGHT. As you can expect with a high preload 1way, even off throttle its popping around corners or even just bends. But it should smooth out as it breaks in, its already quieted down some after only 10miles.
very curious to hear your opinion on ACD tunes now that your front and rear diffs work.
#1280
And Im working with Aldo in AU to try some of his new things. He seems to have the best grasp right now on what the programming is trying to do. So hopefully we can make the ACD function as well as the VC at its best moments and better at its worst.
EDIT: I did have a thought today, I wonder if its worse to break in the diff slowly letting it pop or force it do be done faster with figure 8s on things like the axles.
#1282
I grabbed the TRE recommended Redline 80w140 being something I could pick up easily locally. Can switch to something after I get the 500ish mile break-in done. 1000 mi is a pipe dream, that's months of driving for me in a proper SM car with my short commute.
#1283
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Dallas J
I grabbed the TRE recommended Redline 80w140 being something I could pick up easily locally. Can switch to something after I get the 500ish mile break-in done. 1000 mi is a pipe dream, that's months of driving for me in a proper SM car with my short commute.
You should leave the jnjtial oil in for 1000 miles. Jon uses a bunch moly assembly lube to help the gear break in. Better to keep that in there with fluid than change it early. The magnets do a plenty good job collecting any metal.
#1285
Evolved Member
The reccomendation for all plate diffs I have seen was figure 8's in parking lot... My drift friends used to do it all the time when running in new diffs..
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alpinaturbo (Feb 17, 2020)
#1286
Just cant win this week. 4th oil leak found, first one I can fully take blame for.
1st - Timing belt side leak. Thought was the motor mount bolt leaking even though I pulled and sealed it. Turned out to be the o-ring on the balance shaft cap was flat and super brittle. Must have accidentally used the original o-ring and not the new o-ring when swapping stub shafts on this motor build.
2nd - ACD line. the silver sealing washers (are they a soft steel or something?) suck. Put back on old copper washers, will get extras to just have spares.
3rd - ACD fill plug. Same silver washer (TRE provided...). Back to copper washers.
4th - Noticed another fluid that was a different color (Every fluid here is a different color, almost becomes a convenience to sourcing the leak). Trans fluid from between the T-case and Trans. Only 2 things that can be, and 90% chance its the small O-ring. Separated the T-case last night after putting back together timing belt side and ring is pinched half in the oil port.
I apparently only hand tightened the two upper bolt on the front/top. Broke my own rule of never fully hand tighten without actually tightening cause you cant visually see if you missed something. Oh well, **** happens. Just gotta get back in there and fix it.
And the fun part, mitsu doesn't seem to use any common O-ring sizes. They're all just a little bit odd.
T-case small O-ring. M2x11 (15mm OD)
BS Plug O-ring: M2.5x25 (30mm OD)
1st - Timing belt side leak. Thought was the motor mount bolt leaking even though I pulled and sealed it. Turned out to be the o-ring on the balance shaft cap was flat and super brittle. Must have accidentally used the original o-ring and not the new o-ring when swapping stub shafts on this motor build.
2nd - ACD line. the silver sealing washers (are they a soft steel or something?) suck. Put back on old copper washers, will get extras to just have spares.
3rd - ACD fill plug. Same silver washer (TRE provided...). Back to copper washers.
4th - Noticed another fluid that was a different color (Every fluid here is a different color, almost becomes a convenience to sourcing the leak). Trans fluid from between the T-case and Trans. Only 2 things that can be, and 90% chance its the small O-ring. Separated the T-case last night after putting back together timing belt side and ring is pinched half in the oil port.
I apparently only hand tightened the two upper bolt on the front/top. Broke my own rule of never fully hand tighten without actually tightening cause you cant visually see if you missed something. Oh well, **** happens. Just gotta get back in there and fix it.
And the fun part, mitsu doesn't seem to use any common O-ring sizes. They're all just a little bit odd.
T-case small O-ring. M2x11 (15mm OD)
BS Plug O-ring: M2.5x25 (30mm OD)
#1287
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Just cant win this week. 4th oil leak found, first one I can fully take blame for.
1st - Timing belt side leak. Thought was the motor mount bolt leaking even though I pulled and sealed it. Turned out to be the o-ring on the balance shaft cap was flat and super brittle. Must have accidentally used the original o-ring and not the new o-ring when swapping stub shafts on this motor build.
2nd - ACD line. the silver sealing washers (are they a soft steel or something?) suck. Put back on old copper washers, will get extras to just have spares.
3rd - ACD fill plug. Same silver washer (TRE provided...). Back to copper washers.
4th - Noticed another fluid that was a different color (Every fluid here is a different color, almost becomes a convenience to sourcing the leak). Trans fluid from between the T-case and Trans. Only 2 things that can be, and 90% chance its the small O-ring. Separated the T-case last night after putting back together timing belt side and ring is pinched half in the oil port.
I apparently only hand tightened the two upper bolt on the front/top. Broke my own rule of never fully hand tighten without actually tightening cause you cant visually see if you missed something. Oh well, **** happens. Just gotta get back in there and fix it.
And the fun part, mitsu doesn't seem to use any common O-ring sizes. They're all just a little bit odd.
T-case small O-ring. M2x11 (15mm OD)
BS Plug O-ring: M2.5x25 (30mm OD)
1st - Timing belt side leak. Thought was the motor mount bolt leaking even though I pulled and sealed it. Turned out to be the o-ring on the balance shaft cap was flat and super brittle. Must have accidentally used the original o-ring and not the new o-ring when swapping stub shafts on this motor build.
2nd - ACD line. the silver sealing washers (are they a soft steel or something?) suck. Put back on old copper washers, will get extras to just have spares.
3rd - ACD fill plug. Same silver washer (TRE provided...). Back to copper washers.
4th - Noticed another fluid that was a different color (Every fluid here is a different color, almost becomes a convenience to sourcing the leak). Trans fluid from between the T-case and Trans. Only 2 things that can be, and 90% chance its the small O-ring. Separated the T-case last night after putting back together timing belt side and ring is pinched half in the oil port.
I apparently only hand tightened the two upper bolt on the front/top. Broke my own rule of never fully hand tighten without actually tightening cause you cant visually see if you missed something. Oh well, **** happens. Just gotta get back in there and fix it.
And the fun part, mitsu doesn't seem to use any common O-ring sizes. They're all just a little bit odd.
T-case small O-ring. M2x11 (15mm OD)
BS Plug O-ring: M2.5x25 (30mm OD)
Did you use the big, extra thick, oring for the tcase fluid transfer port that TRE provides? I've never had an issue with that one. The tiny stock one however has dislodged on me during install a time or too. Nothing like redoing that after finishing a clutch job.
#1288
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Just cant win this week. 4th oil leak found, first one I can fully take blame for.
4th - Noticed another fluid that was a different color (Every fluid here is a different color, almost becomes a convenience to sourcing the leak). Trans fluid from between the T-case and Trans. Only 2 things that can be, and 90% chance its the small O-ring. Separated the T-case last night after putting back together timing belt side and ring is pinched half in the oil port.
I apparently only hand tightened the two upper bolt on the front/top. Broke my own rule of never fully hand tighten without actually tightening cause you cant visually see if you missed something. Oh well, **** happens. Just gotta get back in there and fix it.
And the fun part, mitsu doesn't seem to use any common O-ring sizes. They're all just a little bit odd.
T-case small O-ring. M2x11 (15mm OD)
BS Plug O-ring: M2.5x25 (30mm OD)
4th - Noticed another fluid that was a different color (Every fluid here is a different color, almost becomes a convenience to sourcing the leak). Trans fluid from between the T-case and Trans. Only 2 things that can be, and 90% chance its the small O-ring. Separated the T-case last night after putting back together timing belt side and ring is pinched half in the oil port.
I apparently only hand tightened the two upper bolt on the front/top. Broke my own rule of never fully hand tighten without actually tightening cause you cant visually see if you missed something. Oh well, **** happens. Just gotta get back in there and fix it.
And the fun part, mitsu doesn't seem to use any common O-ring sizes. They're all just a little bit odd.
T-case small O-ring. M2x11 (15mm OD)
BS Plug O-ring: M2.5x25 (30mm OD)
Debating on fixing or waiting till I finally throw a tcase in it.
#1289
The silver washers as aluminum, I prefer them for them drain and fill plugs because they don't chew into the aluminum case. On the ACD banjo I use copper. Never had any leak from either and they all get torqued to spec.
Did you use the big, extra thick, oring for the tcase fluid transfer port that TRE provides? I've never had an issue with that one. The tiny stock one however has dislodged on me during install a time or too. Nothing like redoing that after finishing a clutch job.
Did you use the big, extra thick, oring for the tcase fluid transfer port that TRE provides? I've never had an issue with that one. The tiny stock one however has dislodged on me during install a time or too. Nothing like redoing that after finishing a clutch job.