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Just got my Innovate flex fuel sensor in. Will be converting once my new engine is in.
Quick question: is it better to get SAE quick connects or just clamp the fuel line directly to the sensor? IIRC the return line is 1/4" and the sensor is definitely larger so it seems the quick connect would be the better option. Don't see the need to go -6 and change the entire return line unless I absolutely have to.
I install them with the QD fittings. You they have 5/16" barb, so I use 1/4" E85 rated fuel line (a smidgen bigger than stock) and replace the under sections of return line and secure it work drive clamps on fuel rail return, and the return hard line that goes under the car.
I made a bracket that bolts up to the back of the intake manifold. It's completely plug and play if you no longer have your evap lines there. I pitched the idea a couple years ago but nobody was interested at the time so I didn't pursue making any production parts.
That's clean as hell. I'd totally rock that, especially since I'll be running a CB ported stock manifold.
Just ordered a pair of quick connect fittings. Hope this wire is long enough to make it to at least the stock radio location. Guess I can add some wire if need be.
Yea if people are interested then I don't mind doing the logistics for getting a few kits made.
Kit would include:
- Base plate
- Cross bar
- Cross bar spacers
- Mounting bolts (x3)
Not going to advertise prices or anything here, I'm not a vendor so don't want to step on any toes. If you interested shoot me a PM and I'll reach out to my water jet shop tomorrow to see what they can do for me to get 10 made.
Oh also, it puts the sensor in spot where the stock return reaches nicely so no modifying required for that, you'd just need to get ~12" of hose to run from the regulator to the inlet of the sensor like shown in my pic.
i've got new ohlins coming my way - the total cost actually ended up not being significantly more than revalving my current, beat up set with all kinds of body wear. I will probably swap in my springs and top hats to the new set and go from there. revalved to 8/11k, my current rates. stepping down from tanabe fsb to stock with cirodesign's bracket that can get me to 150% stiffer than stock.
as I go over all this, i wanted to check - the only reason to run helper/assist springs is to make sure the spring is always seated, correct? and you only need that if you can't have any preload on the springs for height? I recall there being maybe some marginal benefit to ride quality, but other than that, no impact on handling or anything?
i've got new ohlins coming my way - the total cost actually ended up not being significantly more than revalving my current, beat up set with all kinds of body wear. I will probably swap in my springs and top hats to the new set and go from there. revalved to 8/11k, my current rates. stepping down from tanabe fsb to stock with cirodesign's bracket that can get me to 150% stiffer than stock.
as I go over all this, i wanted to check - the only reason to run helper/assist springs is to make sure the spring is always seated, correct? and you only need that if you can't have any preload on the springs for height? I recall there being maybe some marginal benefit to ride quality, but other than that, no impact on handling or anything?
My rear Racing Logic springs are 63idx180 12kg/672lb with 72idx100 tenders 1/4"dia coils on top.
I got staggered retainers made to suit the 63-72 internal dias. 5mm preload. 60mm spring droop.
To close the tenders on top of the mains it takes 65mm of compression to close
the tenders to 50mm & the mains compressed to 165mm. -15 down from the 180 relaxed.
So my tender springs cusion the impact if I lift a wheel.
Ribbon helper springs don't realy cusion the impact when they close. Soft springs
i've got new ohlins coming my way - the total cost actually ended up not being significantly more than revalving my current, beat up set with all kinds of body wear. I will probably swap in my springs and top hats to the new set and go from there. revalved to 8/11k, my current rates. stepping down from tanabe fsb to stock with cirodesign's bracket that can get me to 150% stiffer than stock.
as I go over all this, i wanted to check - the only reason to run helper/assist springs is to make sure the spring is always seated, correct? and you only need that if you can't have any preload on the springs for height? I recall there being maybe some marginal benefit to ride quality, but other than that, no impact on handling or anything?
My rear Racing Logic springs are 63idx180 12kg/672lb with 72idx100 tenders 1/4"dia coils on top.
I got staggered retainers made to suit the 63-72 internal dias. 5mm preload. 60mm spring droop.
To close the tenders on top of the mains it takes 65mm of compression to close
the tenders to 50mm & the mains compressed to 165mm. -15 down from the 180 relaxed.
So my tender springs cusion the impact if I lift a wheel.
Ribbon helper springs don't realy cusion the impact while they're closing. Soft springs
Last edited by GTA.RS; Mar 5, 2020 at 08:39 PM.
Reason: alter
Dont drop your aluminum fittings! Been fighting this stupid ACD line leak for weeks, finally just pulled the line and inspected and found a perfect wedge shaped dent 1 day before the first event of the season. You know how easy it is to find an M14 -6an male banjo fitting locally? Its not
Mar 2, 2020, 08:50 PM
. Simple enough flat model, could just have them water jet.
