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My rear Racing Logic springs are 63idx180 12kg/672lb with 72idx100 tenders 1/4"dia coils on top.
I got staggered retainers made to suit the 63-72 internal dias. 5mm preload. 60mm spring droop.
To close the tenders on top of the mains it takes 65mm of compression to close
the tenders to 50mm & the mains compressed to 165mm. -15 down from the 180 relaxed.
So my tender springs cusion the impact if I lift a wheel.
Ribbon helper springs don't realy cusion the impact when they close. Soft springs
i've got new ohlins coming my way - the total cost actually ended up not being significantly more than revalving my current, beat up set with all kinds of body wear. I will probably swap in my springs and top hats to the new set and go from there. revalved to 8/11k, my current rates. stepping down from tanabe fsb to stock with cirodesign's bracket that can get me to 150% stiffer than stock.
as I go over all this, i wanted to check - the only reason to run helper/assist springs is to make sure the spring is always seated, correct? and you only need that if you can't have any preload on the springs for height? I recall there being maybe some marginal benefit to ride quality, but other than that, no impact on handling or anything?
Ok, so here is my perspective. Take it for what its worth since everyone has their own perspective/belief/religion on shock/spring length setup.
Whats the purpose of the damper? To control the spring/mass system. What happens when you run out of spring travel in extension? You now just have a mass and damper. Do you think the weight of the un-sprung is going to provide some tractive value as it tries to fall to the ground while its now an excessively over-damped system (as its now without spring force).
I do not bother worrying about what the shock will do once the spring is no longer in play. Therefore, tenders/helpers are not really that useful unless its to just keep a spring captive on a single adjustable shock. Or if you need your bump stop to be a travel limit and set the body length specific for that and your spring isn't captive, there's a good use of a helper.
I use to use a tender or assist spring in the rear to try and help push the wheel down. But when that tender comes into play, its again massively over damped. At best it can only skip across the ground which turns out is worse for hop issues than just keeping it up in the air.
I also don't see any other value in those helper springs other than keeping the main spring in place at full extension. Without them, main spring can move out of place and not seat properly when the weight gets back on. My old setup included 50 lb helper springs for that reason only. I have seen people argue about some other benefits, but...
interesting notes. def suspension setup dependent as well, i'm 11k in the rear with one way ohlins, i'm sure it's much much softer so hopefully the bouncing issue doesn't rear its head
Finishing up a full resto and build of this fine automobile... On first major test drive noticed a loud whine from rear diff.. Unfortunately it is a AYC diff, which means no spare parts.. Took the inspection cover off and discovered no wear on gear, and mesh was good.. so pulled the input gear and discovered worn input bearings... 40 bucks later in a bearing shop and all is good again..
interesting notes. def suspension setup dependent as well, i'm 11k in the rear with one way ohlins, i'm sure it's much much softer so hopefully the bouncing issue doesn't rear its head
The way I go about this - when you put it together on the work bench, if spring is moving, add helpers.
When my 110kg stands on one 100mm long tender, it measures 55mm.
50mm it's closed. So I have to bounce a bit to close it.
I'm not sure if that equates to 2.4kg per mm for that one spring.
Ribbon helpers I can close in my hands
Last edited by GTA.RS; Mar 7, 2020 at 12:54 PM.
Reason: Added more
71's are a little faster at first from what I've heard whereas RC's tolerate the heat way better. Wear wise is about the same unless you're doing 20+ minute 10/10th's laps where the 71's blocks will blister and shred.
71's are a little faster at first from what I've heard whereas RC's tolerate the heat way better. Wear wise is about the same unless you're doing 20+ minute 10/10th's laps where the 71's blocks will blister and shred.
I do 20 minute sessions at 9/10ths, 8 sessions per weekend.
On hot days (Utah summer) my 265 RE71Rs can't handle more than a few laps before they get noticeably greasy. If the RC1s can actually handle the heat while giving almost as much grip as the 71s, I'll be happy.
I stepped up to 275/35R18. The RC1 is slightly shorter than the average 275, but I expect I'll have to do a little bit of adjustment to make them fit. Maybe it's time to order some high clearance rear trailing arms from Dallas.
The way I go about this - when you put it together on the work bench, if spring is moving, add helpers.
yep pretty much this. you should set the height by adjusting the keeper ring up on the spring till its where you want it, if its not captive then you add the helper springs. You only want to adjust the bottom of the shock/coilover to set your initial droop settings
about 3 inches up and outward 3 inches from the bottom latch the latch is kind of a triangle shape with the point to the bottom if that makes sense. the bolts are on each point of the triangle so 1 bottom center then 2 top one either side
Mar 6, 2020, 06:55 AM
