TimC909

If you don't mind, could you please put up exactly what changes you have had to do to make these fit as a list?

I have to do some corrosion repair to my 9 so whilst I am in there I might as well get any body mods required in the list done now.

Thanks

alpinaturbo

iTrader: (5)

Timc909,

To fit 295/30x18,
You need 18x10.5+38, or you could use 18x10 +38, but 10.5 will wear them better.
Rear trailing arms with larger radius to give room to the inset wheels/tires: SSB Designs offers them (DallasJ here on Forum).

You'll need to massage rear quarter panel (outer), to various degrees: even for 275/35x18 or 275/40x17 (and consequently 285/30x18).

Front is easy, you either buy wider front fenders (wings) or pull OEM ones out, and to stand them off by the door-latch, use little bracket to connect the mid-point fastener up the A-pillar.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ender-mod.html



PF01, NT03, TE37, CE28N, etc, are wheels with lots of room for brake calipers, which helps on the front.
RPF1 has very poor brake caliper fit, and always requires spacers to fit over Evo Brembos, especially if you upgrade to Evo X Brembos or other (Alcon, AP, Wilwood, etc).

TimC909

Is this pretty accurate?

10.5x18 ET38 295/30 Fitment Mods

Front

6” front spring

> -3.5° Camber

Remove liners

Roll lips

Pull fenders or replace



Rear

4” rear spring

> -2° Camber

SSB Radius Arm

Roll arch lips and pull

Relocate bumper mounts

Clearance front part of rear tub

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I would say be careful on the 4" rear spring just because your shocks and setup may not work with them. Thats one of the things youll just have to find out how short you can go.

Driv200

iTrader: (1)

Took family out of country on a family cruise for holidays. Just back and saw some posts. Will try and answer.

For a stock bodied EVO, I think my project is sort of unique considering I fit 18x10.5 +38 on 295/30’s on all 4 corners w/o cutting or gapping fenders. Not the only one, but in a small group.

List of changes:
* switched to 15mm front spacers from 25mm
* switched to shorter 60mm front & rear springs
*** 60mm 6” 10kg & 60mm 6” 13kg
* Purchased Dallas’ rear lower control arms
* couple hammer taps inner rear tub
* rotated rear top mounts inward .5”- 1”
* -3.5 front camber / -2.5 rear camber

We think there is room for 11” or wider tires. We definitely will add more negative rear camber as my first track experience proved there is enough oversteer to need more rear neg camber. I’d probably go to 285/30 Hoosier just for peace of mind on my next tire order. I am considering full slicks and will discuss on a new thread. No rear spacers.

At track, my tire wear was near perfect. Temps were within 10 degrees or less across inner-middle-outer tire readings at all 4 corners. This was great for our first time out and is a testament to my shop guys.

Pic request: I did attach rear tire-to-strut clearance in previous posts. When I get to 4 post lift at shop, I will take more clearance pics and try and get your requests answered.

Name User

iTrader: (1)

Any chance of keeping fender liners with 295/30? Seems ok with 285. Thinking of cutting one up just so that it protects the wires at the top.

I still want to try a 10mm spacer up front, although 15mm seems to be the minimum. (edit: same 10.5 +38)

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I cut the front sections and replaced with screen. I have more room, protection from rocks, and the oil cooler has lots of ventilation.

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

if the fender well is an area of high pressure, do you want the back side of the oil cooler fully vented to the wheel well, vs the stock liner partitioning it off a bit? I’ve wondered about this before with my own car and its modified fender liners.

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

I only have fender liners on the top and a bit on the back. Be warned guys, if you're low enough the tire WILL rub through the liner and eventually start rubbing through the wires. The only way around it is pull the fender off and reroute the harness so it travels along the side of the inner metal instead of the bottom.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I wondered about that, but my car hasn't seen more than about 260°, IIRC (would have to look it up to be exact). No problems so far.

Driv200

iTrader: (1)

Interesting. I got rid of fender liners long long ago. Moved oil cooler to the front mount as it was collecting rocks in stock location. Good reminder about wires at top of inner fender. I think we addressed this so long ago, I forgot about it....and now with my bigger tire set up, I need to double check.

Construct

iTrader: (4)

Bumping this back up.

Is 295 / 10.5" +38 the limit for inboard clearance in the rear? Assuming a small amount of toe-in.

Enkei's new GTC02 is available in 18x10.5 +45, but if I'd have to space it back to the +38 range to avoid rubbing then I might as well get a proper +38 10.5"

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

The 45 would fit with some metal cutting on the inboard side.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

There are a few things that sorta all become a problem around the same point on the driver side.

1. Lower sheet metal on the inner wall is probably obvious as OPR hits it and rubs clean
2. Trailing arm we all know about but most of us have replaced in some way
3. Spring once you have the correct amount of negative camber
4. Fuel filler neck.

If I made my "special" lower control arm, moved to a fuel cell with a different fill tube, and cut/flexed/welded that sheetmetal spot on the inner wall, I think theres another 10-20mm of inboard clearance from just changing the trailing arm. At least on my car, not that Ive considered it

Driv200

iTrader: (1)

Yup. What Dallas said. And you too, proper 10.5 +38!