Hoping these new PF01’s 18x10.5 +38 will fit
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alpinaturbo (Nov 25, 2019)
The following 2 users liked this post by Dallas J:
alpinaturbo (Nov 25, 2019),
Driv200 (Nov 26, 2019)
#7
Well? One white glove test fit. Don’t understand how anyone got anything wider under stock body EVO. Might have spring/tire issue. I was already rubbing spring on first session out until each set worked themselves out. Now, it looks to close to spring and to far past fender lip???
Going for it I guess and then to alignment shop. Getting Dallas’ rear arms put on first. The PF01’s definitely allow for better brake clearance vs the RPF1’s.
Going for it I guess and then to alignment shop. Getting Dallas’ rear arms put on first. The PF01’s definitely allow for better brake clearance vs the RPF1’s.
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Driv200 (Dec 2, 2019)
#10
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
That's interesting mine clear the rear coilover fine. Granted, they're only 275/35r18
#11
Again with the shorter spring, You need a 4" spring up in there. 4" rear and 6" front spring will give you 3-3.5 ish inches of travel with the motion ratio and dependent on the spring.
You're definitely playing in that field of pushing the tire but you can get there. Just takes making all the little bits you gain from each step.
You're definitely playing in that field of pushing the tire but you can get there. Just takes making all the little bits you gain from each step.
#12
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Are those Robispec springs extra long or something? I had KW V3s and I don't remember that. Though I switched to Ohlins when I got 18x10.5 +38 wheels.
For me 18x10.5 +38 needed:
15-20mm spacer up front
Flipped camber bolt
No issues inboard in the rear, just a roll and slight pull.
If I could get shorter springs I could run a smaller spacer up front.
For me 18x10.5 +38 needed:
15-20mm spacer up front
Flipped camber bolt
No issues inboard in the rear, just a roll and slight pull.
If I could get shorter springs I could run a smaller spacer up front.
#13
Great inspiration guys. Thanks for tips and pics. I almost threw in the towel this morning but checked this forum first. I’ll stick with it. I already have the spacers up front.
Looking for 4” & 6” springs? I see 5” springs. Swift shows 10k & 8k rates.
What about my helper springs on front? Keep those?
Planning to do a full mount and stance test to see where we are at. Gapping the front fenders is last ditch effort. The rear.....this is a surprise. Didn’t expect to be up in the coilovers or hard part of suspension.
Looking for 4” & 6” springs? I see 5” springs. Swift shows 10k & 8k rates.
What about my helper springs on front? Keep those?
Planning to do a full mount and stance test to see where we are at. Gapping the front fenders is last ditch effort. The rear.....this is a surprise. Didn’t expect to be up in the coilovers or hard part of suspension.
Last edited by Driv200; Dec 3, 2019 at 06:59 AM.
#14
Couple things to add,
1) If you aren't already, max out your strut top plate neg camber and adjust camber via the strut bolts. There's enough slop in there for ~1deg of adjustment range. Its not as convenient as adjusting from the top but it will give the most clearance to the strut/spring.
2) Get rid of helper springs, your rates aren't high enough to have any use for them especially in the front. A case can be made to run them in the rear but no point up front.
3) I cant see what rate that rear swift spring is but the "100" on your front spring means its a 10k and its probably the standard 10k, 200mm long, 65mm ID. You can get a 10k, 6", 2.5" or 65mm ID spring to replace it no problem. You have plenty of threads on the body there to run the shorter spring.
4) If that rear spring is less than 12k, get a 12k or better 14k spring in there in 6" or shorter length.
1) If you aren't already, max out your strut top plate neg camber and adjust camber via the strut bolts. There's enough slop in there for ~1deg of adjustment range. Its not as convenient as adjusting from the top but it will give the most clearance to the strut/spring.
2) Get rid of helper springs, your rates aren't high enough to have any use for them especially in the front. A case can be made to run them in the rear but no point up front.
3) I cant see what rate that rear swift spring is but the "100" on your front spring means its a 10k and its probably the standard 10k, 200mm long, 65mm ID. You can get a 10k, 6", 2.5" or 65mm ID spring to replace it no problem. You have plenty of threads on the body there to run the shorter spring.
4) If that rear spring is less than 12k, get a 12k or better 14k spring in there in 6" or shorter length.
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Driv200 (Dec 3, 2019)