When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm always a little surprised at how well the wheels tuck into the body under compression. It also helps that the loaded tires only deflect inward, although the effect is small at the top of the tire.
Headed to shop after break. Will share camber & specs when I know. Test fitting tires & rims is first task. Getting to alignment shop after confirming it’s possible to fit is next step.
Well? One white glove test fit. Don’t understand how anyone got anything wider under stock body EVO. Might have spring/tire issue. I was already rubbing spring on first session out until each set worked themselves out. Now, it looks to close to spring and to far past fender lip???
Going for it I guess and then to alignment shop. Getting Dallas’ rear arms put on first. The PF01’s definitely allow for better brake clearance vs the RPF1’s.
Yep, these are the joys of trying to make it fit. First step, get a 6" front spring to move the perch up so you can get the tire in pushed in to about 5mm off the strut. Theres more than 1/2" of clearance you'll gain there.
Again with the shorter spring, You need a 4" spring up in there. 4" rear and 6" front spring will give you 3-3.5 ish inches of travel with the motion ratio and dependent on the spring.
You're definitely playing in that field of pushing the tire but you can get there. Just takes making all the little bits you gain from each step.
Great inspiration guys. Thanks for tips and pics. I almost threw in the towel this morning but checked this forum first. I’ll stick with it. I already have the spacers up front.
Looking for 4” & 6” springs? I see 5” springs. Swift shows 10k & 8k rates.
What about my helper springs on front? Keep those?
Planning to do a full mount and stance test to see where we are at. Gapping the front fenders is last ditch effort. The rear.....this is a surprise. Didn’t expect to be up in the coilovers or hard part of suspension.
1) If you aren't already, max out your strut top plate neg camber and adjust camber via the strut bolts. There's enough slop in there for ~1deg of adjustment range. Its not as convenient as adjusting from the top but it will give the most clearance to the strut/spring.
2) Get rid of helper springs, your rates aren't high enough to have any use for them especially in the front. A case can be made to run them in the rear but no point up front.
3) I cant see what rate that rear swift spring is but the "100" on your front spring means its a 10k and its probably the standard 10k, 200mm long, 65mm ID. You can get a 10k, 6", 2.5" or 65mm ID spring to replace it no problem. You have plenty of threads on the body there to run the shorter spring.
4) If that rear spring is less than 12k, get a 12k or better 14k spring in there in 6" or shorter length.
Dec 2, 2019, 08:19 PM
