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haha - all those things are subbed/bookmarked for me.
my guess is electronic diff modifications would count as a mod as well, FWIW. restacked plus ACD reflash is another option, though prob not as good as a cusco rear
Yeah, thank you for all your proselytizing on this. You have had a real role in pushing the knowledge about the restack to be general knowledge (on the boards at least).
Assuming this goes through, I would be keeping the OE clutch as long as I can (especially since I put a new one in after the engine issues).. I don't think I'll be making much additional power under the new allowances and my last clutch got me 600 runs (~97 of those Pro launches). What would be the streetable legal upgrade from there?
Yeah, thank you for all your proselytizing on this. You have had a real role in pushing the knowledge about the restack to be general knowledge (on the boards at least).
Assuming this goes through, I would be keeping the OE clutch as long as I can (especially since I put a new one in after the engine issues).. I don't think I'll be making much additional power under the new allowances and my last clutch got me 600 runs (~97 of those Pro launches). What would be the streetable legal upgrade from there?
i've been on the exedy twin HD for a really long time. it's completely overkill, kind of a carryover from my fp green evo. if i could do it over, i'd get the SD, but given the amount of driving i will probably never get there.
Because no one buys it, it's pretty pointless. The HD drives fine and the pedal isn't overly heavy.
Yeah, driving mine its engagement soft enough I keep wondering how its actually going to hold a hard launch. The old XTSS with clutch restrictor would pretty much limit me to a 1.7 60ft. Any harder and it wanted to slip (4.11 gears, tall 25.5" tire, and IX 1st gear makes it a bit harder than most to launch). Wondering on the twin if I should pull restrictor or leave it.
I'm finally getting around to installing my JRZ Motorsport triples on my Evo 9. Initially, I planned on running swift assist springs both front and rear with 8" main springs. However, I'm noticing, initially my ride heights are SUPER low. Literally my rear wheels/tires on the car are tucked to where the lip is almost at the lip of the wheel rim in the rear. #stancelife
I started cranking the spring perch on the front to get closer to a 25.5" - 26" right height from fender lip to ground. I'm nowhere close to that goal and the higher I crank on the collar I am noticing the assist spring is totally compressing. Enough that it's deforming the collar that sits between the main spring and assist spring. Turning the adjustable spring perch is definitely taking more effort the further I try and raise this car up.
I then took the assist spring off, just to see if the 8" spring alone up front would work, however I'm still putting a ton of preload on that spring to increase height. At what point is this detrimental? Or is it even detrimental? I know some shocks are designed to run at lower ride heights. I'm guessing these JRZ's fall in that boat or am I off base here?
I can snag pictures tonight if need be! Here's an initial picture.
In for this too. Dallas and I were talking about this earlier. I did the same thing putting longer springs on and find out that to get the ride height that makes the tire happy the assist is so compressed it's really just a glorified spacer now. He claims as long as it compresses more then .5 inches at rest and your rates aren't extreme you should be good? Otherwise time to look at different length springs.
In for this too. Dallas and I were talking about this earlier. I did the same thing putting longer springs on and find out that to get the ride height that makes the tire happy the assist is so compressed it's really just a glorified spacer now. He claims as long as it compresses more then .5 inches at rest and your rates aren't extreme you should be good? Otherwise time to look at different length springs.
The odd thing is, I've been through many different coilovers on the evo chassis and never really ran into this, at least from my crappy memory. Started with BC Racing, went to AST's, KW's, Ohlins, Reinharte and now JRZ's. With the AST's and KW's, both of which adjusted height the same way as the JRZ. I'm fine with not having to run assist springs if that's what it comes to. I'm just concerned how hard I'm having to crank on these spring collars and what, if any complications that puts on the strut. I'm unsure how to word that in a more technical way.
I'm running pretty high rates, 800lb front, 1000lb rears to start. I'd assume this is part of the reason why I'm really having to crank on the collar and it's compressing the tenders before I even set the car on the ground. These coilovers haven't seen a mile on them yet so the threads are perfect and I did put some WD-40 on the threads to help with friction.
I'd like to run assists in the rear, but I have a feeling that I'll get to the same point that the assists will fully compress (which I understand you want them fully compressed at ride height, but the darn plastic spacer in-between the main and tender is deforming while the drivers side car is up in the air still...
At softer spring rates (like 10-12k range) Id want more like an inch of rear droop. If you in the upper realm of stiff (16k +) then 0.5-0.75 is fine but thats a limitation based on the static load only being able to compress the heavy spring rate that much.
There is a trick to getting more droop though and sometimes its needed on my billet uprights because the pickup points are moved for the geometry correction. Flip the lower control arm. It will shift things about 1.25" IIRC moving the wheel down by effectively making the shock length longer to the control arm axis. I ran it like that all last year with a completely stock lower arm but I would recommend replacing the shock bushing and absolutely leaving the outer bushings the OEM sphericals.
Is the assist spring a helper spring or a tender spring? My recollection is that helper spring = flat under normal load, tender spring = has an actual rate and is not designed to be flat all the time, can make suspension tuning tricky.
Is the assist spring a helper spring or a tender spring? My recollection is that helper spring = flat under normal load, tender spring = has an actual rate and is not designed to be flat all the time, can make suspension tuning tricky.
Swift calls them an assist spring which would be a tender spring. I believe I went somewhere in the 300lb range. I'd have to double check. that rate for sure.
Assist spring is what Swift calls a tender spring.
I've now come around full circle on its use. A Tender/Assist isn't going to push thru the swaybar and only really help if you bounce the car maybe. But you are going to be getting weird dynamics with the damping ratio changing in step function potentially. I'm feeling lately that the amount of droop you get with your spring rates is what you need. Once you get to a low enough load that the tire is zero load it makes sense the spring match that (ignoring the effects of the ARB). So for a high rate car, if you have a body height adjustment, then setting preload to exactly zero and adjusting body is my preference.
If you have a lower rate and much longer travels, its probably better to set the body length to the travels you need and use a helper to take up space of the spring unless you are preloading the main spring due to body length limitations (fixed body length) or travel needs (like a rally car or something)
Most I've used are ~60 lbs range. Basically there to hold the spring on the perch at full decompress/droop. On my AST's they would bounce HARD on certain curbs whereas the MCS's just soak them up. So the rule would be if you have 1" or less of space at full droop between the top of the spring and the perch - add a helper. If you have more then 1" then go up to the next lengh of main spring and /or assist spring. Which means I'll likely end up with helpers in the front but none in the rear, we'll see.
Apr 7, 2020, 07:43 AM
