LV///R

iTrader: (36)

Got it! I'll just leave those alone then.

What are your thoughts on the rear, upper arm bushings and the rear toe bushings? Worthwhile to replace or leave factory?

Thanks Dallas!

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

in case youre after removing all the flex and binding... I did try to achieve that a few months ago with polyu and fresh grease. One thing I didnt anticipate was my rear spring feels softer (compressing more since max flex of the bushings is gone) and I am not sure if I should increase my spring rate

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I put urethane bushings on the upper control arm but it likely does very little there. On the toe arm, definitely don't use the WL offset bushing. Its fully garbage (IMO)

MrAWD

On my old DSM, I had all upper arm bushings done with delrin and I think even rear ones had offset in them. Surprised that you have chosen urethane for it, but perhaps it is OK if not done with offset, I guess

LV///R

iTrader: (36)

That's interesting! Looks pretty darn smooth too me. I'll have to check mine out during the offseason. I'm quite certain I'm getting binding. I mean I was struggling with some "hopping" at the Gridlife event - mainly on the turns that needed a bunch of steering input. Enough that I was having to let off.

Yeah - I'm kinda surprised too! I thought the rear trailing arm bushing was a key one to replace. But if Delrin isn't an option, poly seems to be the only choice for us in STU anyways.

LV///R

iTrader: (36)

Next question:

With the offseason here, I've really been thinking about 2023 and what to do. I REALLY want to attend more gridlife events as well as SCCA Time Trials. For SCCA - I believe they require a 4 point. Gridlife street, they don't require it. I'd like to have it simply for safety purposes.

Any of you guys run the Autopower Roll bar? I've been reading on here that it seems to be a good choice and would meet the SCCA rules for safety. For autox - seems like a downside to add a good amount of weight back in, however it is in the rear half of the car so maybe it's not such a bad thing? Plus the rules state that any of the material/interior pieces you remove simply have to be less than the weight of the roll bar. IE, I could easily remove the rear seat and be OK in regards to weight. I've heard the rigidity alone that it adds is an added benefit too...

I've also been contemplating building the car for XSA instead of leaving it in STU. That way the car could actually be competitive in Gridlife Street. However, will XSA ever be a jacket class? Or will it always be supplemental? If supplemental, I'll probably stay put. Maybe just add injectors and a fuel pump for E85 for Gridlife and have at least a better chance at being competitive there. Then swap back to STU trim for SCCA Solo...a bit of work for that....

Think of it this way - Gridlife street evos seem to be making 400-430+ whp. Full bolt ons, built engines, Dallas's / SSB front/rear uprights, front and rear diffs....So more along the lines of a SCCA Solo SM car, without the aero and limited to 25psi and limited to a 255mm 200 TW tire. That's the best way I can describe how much of a knife to a gunfight my car currently stands for GL....


Thoughts?

tolas

I ran SCCA Time Trials this year in the Tuner 3 class. They do not require a 4 point. I actually just bought an Evo X to build up for track use (SCCA Time Trials Max 2 class, GridLife Street Mod, NASA TT2) and will keep the Evo 9 in STU Trim. If you can pull it off and want to stay in STU, then 2 cars is the way to go. You'll always be sacrificing one for the other. I might also try to run the X in Solo XA class, but we'll see. I have an STU local championship to defend and a national trophy to try to back up so I'd like to stay in STU.

Terror Rising

iTrader: (26)

Buy a second Evo for Gridlife purposes, duh. The XSA / SM / Gridlife decision is a tough one and I'm currently in the same boat. I have all the parts to complete my SM build (SSB everything, 18x12s & 315s, 18x10.5s, Ohlins Flags) but my car is a perfect 255mm tire car as it sits. The three biggest challenges I have are 1) It has a sunroof. 2) It has untouched fenders. 3) No Mivec. So it's not even the right model to start a hardcore SM build with and fenders aren't reversible. Meanwhile if I don't do nationals (which I never have) then there's no reason for a truck and trailer and if I don't need my truck I can replace it with a Supra. First world problems.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

I was inspired by @Ayoustin . I'm my mind the coilovers are designed & tested with everything else as "negligible force", so I tried to get it there. I'm still getting used to it.
I'm not sure if these polyu bushings are intended to be rubbing on the controlarm brackets or it should be stationary and the controlarm rolling on the bushing... i just greased every surface including the bolts. It's definitely quieter. I think I have a video of the stiction/groaning
I was wondering what was going in your video, it looked like when I took my underdamped springs to the track that limited me in long sweepers so I'm looking forward to a new PB

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

wow cool. we're all in the same crossroads. A 2nd evo/car is definitely the most tempting.
Personally, I'm not doing big events for a jacket, but would like to check out the XSA/B one day.
I also do SCCA TT/TA and I only have a lap belt.
E85 in my car wont last 15mins in a really open track

LV///R

iTrader: (36)

I should clarify - I meant Mid-Divisional SCCA Time Trials. They run a different rule-set than the National level from what I've gathered.

It's just not feasible for me at the moment to buy another track toy. I still need to buy a truck and trailer. I've been holding off for a long time - trying to wait and see if the market comes back down to reality, but I'm unsure that will happen now. Probably screwed myself a bit for holding off as long as I have. Congrats on getting an X!


If only it were that easy (as referenced above ) Yeah man - I'd think long and hard. I wish I never would have rolled/pulled the rear fenders on my old ASP evo. Everyone is in this for different reasons, however. Can you swap out the sunroof glass in SM? If so, that shouldn't be a massive deal in my opinion. Is there really a major downside not having MIVEC either? Decisions, decisions!

Thanks for sharing, man! It's definitely something I need to consider. I haven't really experience hop this bad with my Shaftworks dampers this whole first year. But this is the only track event I've done. It definitely got more noticeable the lower I dropped my tire pressures out back. I possibly went too low. I am going to have Jonathan Lugod take a look at the video and see what his thoughts are. There were two turns at Heartland Motorsports Park where I was getting the hopping from time to time, one was pretty crucial, and it was at higher speeds. (Turns 6 and 8 for those who know the track). I feel like I might be under damped as well. I know with my old JRZ's, if I would max out the settings, I could get it to feel truly over damped. I don't feel I can get anywhere close to that with the current valving. Doesn't help that I was running 20k rears - when I believe most track evos are probably in the 12-14k range front/rear....

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

Check for tire rubbing the control arms or the wheel well. i've addressed those in the past a number of times. Not sure how bad it is to over tighten the axle nut but thats one thing i felt i needed to do. you could be 3 wheeling too, that makes the outer rear wheels squiggly.
Yeah i'm also a bit confused about spring rates. local fast guys prepped for track (370z for example) got 20k springs so i'm not sure if all that is for aero and lower CG/suspension clearance

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Brent, you definitely need to start with what is your main goal. Then add a sub goal or two.

Do you want to win nationally or locally, is that elusive nationals Jacket important to you, do you care about PAX (locally indexed for competition), need to be competitive in multiple series, etc...

I have no clue whats going to happen to SM vs XSA long term. One definitely pulls from the other and I know the pointy end of SM is getting quite pointy these days. But a lot of series are coming out with open rulesets and 200tw tires. That has a lot of allure for me but its hard to give up on my Hoosier factory.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

on the damping dyno charts, assuming the both are legit, i noticed the Shaftworks and the FA510s have very different profiles. Maybe your JRZ's are more like the FAs (peaks early). I haven't taken either of mine to the track after getting them back from the manufacturers. cant wait

Lumpy Sticks

iTrader: (3)

You guys need a series like what I run in. No limitations besides tires. Classes are based on car type only. Since the Evo is AWD, you would be in the Super class with $200k super cars but as @griceiv proved last event, an Evo can still put down the fastest lap of the day.