Looking For Advice On Switching to Speed Density
Sep 5, 2024, 04:37 PM
#1
Looking For Advice On Switching to Speed Density
Hi All!
Hoping to get your insight on whether switching to SD is the right choice for me. We are finishing up my engine setup and now at the final phase of tuning. Desmond is recommending that I switch to SD and swapping to 4 bar?
I've done as much reading as I can about this but I'm not really sure this is the right way to go for my setup. My build was based around reliability (as reliable as possible) and consistency rather that MAX POWA... I chose the smaller 55mm stock frame/manifold setup with a target of 450hp for reliability and simplicity. My hope has been to just get to event and run it with little to no messing around with tuning or adjustments outside of suspension/alignment. I don't really care about winning and the goal is to have as little down time as possible for mechanical issues.
It seems to me that switching to SD could create issues when going from sea level to high elevation. Also, from what I've read it sounds like low speed and part throttle is affected negatively? I have no intent of switching to stand alone. I want to keep the setup and car as simple as possible to try and maximize seat time over trying to win plastic trophies.
Hoping to get your insight on whether switching to SD is the right choice for me. We are finishing up my engine setup and now at the final phase of tuning. Desmond is recommending that I switch to SD and swapping to 4 bar?
I've done as much reading as I can about this but I'm not really sure this is the right way to go for my setup. My build was based around reliability (as reliable as possible) and consistency rather that MAX POWA... I chose the smaller 55mm stock frame/manifold setup with a target of 450hp for reliability and simplicity. My hope has been to just get to event and run it with little to no messing around with tuning or adjustments outside of suspension/alignment. I don't really care about winning and the goal is to have as little down time as possible for mechanical issues.
It seems to me that switching to SD could create issues when going from sea level to high elevation. Also, from what I've read it sounds like low speed and part throttle is affected negatively? I have no intent of switching to stand alone. I want to keep the setup and car as simple as possible to try and maximize seat time over trying to win plastic trophies.
Sep 5, 2024, 06:49 PM
#2
To me the car runs much better overall on the MAF on the stock ECU.
Driven, tuned and rode on many different setups and nothing beats how it drives on the MAF.
My current setup is similar, FP green on 25lbs and after doing an SD tune and spending a lot of time trying to get it to drive like stock I decided to just go back to MAF and immediately the car was soo much smoother.
Only benefit I see of SD on the stock ECU is if you blow a coupler then it’ll still drive ok.
But at 25lbs it’s just not something that happens to me so moot point as far as I’m concerned.
Also the 4Bar MAPs are not reliable.
I run the OEM 3Bar of an Evo X, that’s good up to 31/32lbs which for me is more then I need. And OEM reliability.
Driven, tuned and rode on many different setups and nothing beats how it drives on the MAF.
My current setup is similar, FP green on 25lbs and after doing an SD tune and spending a lot of time trying to get it to drive like stock I decided to just go back to MAF and immediately the car was soo much smoother.
Only benefit I see of SD on the stock ECU is if you blow a coupler then it’ll still drive ok.
But at 25lbs it’s just not something that happens to me so moot point as far as I’m concerned.
Also the 4Bar MAPs are not reliable.
I run the OEM 3Bar of an Evo X, that’s good up to 31/32lbs which for me is more then I need. And OEM reliability.
Sep 5, 2024, 10:56 PM
#3
I also switched my car from MAF to SD, stock turbo and ECU. In the 10 years I owned my car, it has only broken down twice. Both was due to a faulty OMNI 4 Bar, which was replaced free of charge. Symptoms prior to failure was the car bucking at low RPM. I believe it was some electrical contact issue within the part itself that was supposedly resolved. Have not had that issue in over 5 years but I rarely drive my car. If it ain't broke, leave it alone.
Sep 6, 2024, 01:30 PM
#4
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
For reliabilty, get an MHI-18k. the AGT stuff is ....meh. And doesn't perform well per wheel size.
SD runs very well, requires a proper tune and you have to let the car warm up before driving away. If you do cams you pretty much need to do SD.
The MAF works until the screen gets sucked into the turbo. Or a decent set of cams cause too much reversion and it won't idle.
SD runs very well, requires a proper tune and you have to let the car warm up before driving away. If you do cams you pretty much need to do SD.
The MAF works until the screen gets sucked into the turbo. Or a decent set of cams cause too much reversion and it won't idle.
Sep 7, 2024, 09:45 AM
#5
If you want trouble free with AC, stay with MAF or get a tuner to guarantee he can make it work troublefree. I'm sure some can, but 2 "reputable" shops near me CAN'T. I made more progress with it than they did.
I also had omnibar 4bar sensor issue. I cant see any real advantage comparing MAF vs SD, but I autox more, just basic 450hp setup. maybe MAF is harder to find as backup?
I also had omnibar 4bar sensor issue. I cant see any real advantage comparing MAF vs SD, but I autox more, just basic 450hp setup. maybe MAF is harder to find as backup?
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