tune & dyno my evo 8
Apr 20, 2010, 06:17 AM
#18
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In this order, here's what you need:
1) upgraded fuel pump
2) manual boost controller
3) O2 housing and downpipe
4) injectors
the fpWhite is a madman - you just need the supporting mods to make it happen. Shore up your fuel delivery and boost control, and you're good to go.
1) upgraded fuel pump
2) manual boost controller
3) O2 housing and downpipe
4) injectors
the fpWhite is a madman - you just need the supporting mods to make it happen. Shore up your fuel delivery and boost control, and you're good to go.
and you are set! #3 Might as well add a gasket matched ported manifold while you are at it, you have to have the manifold off to do the 02 housing anyway
5) nice set of Kelford 272s
Apr 20, 2010, 06:25 AM
#19
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i say add cams to the list and no need to port the O2 housing, its more pain taking it off than the 5 hp you going to gain. The cams wil def wake the car, and a lower intercooler pipe for a better flow, i say no injectors at these point cause the OEM ones are usually good for up to 350 whp
Apr 20, 2010, 07:52 AM
#20
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few things, there is definately something not right with the car. we ran a completely stock evo on that dyno and it made 230whp. also, your injectors are maxed out at 250whp? also not right.... stock injectors will get you into the 330whp range.
stop on by and we can help you out. then we can take it back to the dyno and see what it does. i know for certain you can make more power... and i know for certain what mods you need to do to make the 300ish whp you should be at with essentially a completely stock car with catback and a FP white (very similair to a stock evo 9 turbo).
stop on by and we can help you out. then we can take it back to the dyno and see what it does. i know for certain you can make more power... and i know for certain what mods you need to do to make the 300ish whp you should be at with essentially a completely stock car with catback and a FP white (very similair to a stock evo 9 turbo).
Apr 20, 2010, 10:41 AM
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Ill just tell you how to mod your evo from the ground up:
1 - Fuel pump - Walbro 255, the stock pump has a bypass in it, and just doesnt flow very well, this is sort of a safety thing, and a relatively cheap necessary mod.
2 - 3" Turboback exhaust - buy it used, and go to the meets and hear them, the most important thing is fitment and if you like the sound.
3 - Open filter and vibrant flange - just buy the AmsOil filter it works really well and the filter it top notch (this is not 100% nessary if you have a good drop in filter, but the stock box is a bit of a restriction)
4 - BOV (if evo 9 you can omit this) - I have the forge adjustable one, but the important part here is make sure that whatever you get, you get one that is RECIRCULATED NOT VTA
5 - Lower Intercooler Pipe (the one that goes between the turbo and the intercooler) and some T-bolts for the upper intercooler pipe (the one on the engine side of the intercooler) - Not 100% necessary but if you find a used one cheap enough get it now cause there are some gains to be had here. The upper pipe doesnt offer much power gains, and if you get a set of T-bolt clamps you can avoid the issue of pipes popping off when you up the boost in the next step.
6 - Boost controller - 3port ecu controlled is the best, you can buy all the parts to make it your self for about $50 (Ill add the GM part numbers when I get home, but a lot of people are making them and selling them plug and play, its up to you (I also found where to get the connectors to make a plug and play one too) (MUST GET TUNED AFTER THIS) I put this here because you can get way without tuning right way until this step and not risk blowing anything up, that said to get the most out of any aftermarket part you should get tuned. I would also suggest before you get tuned to have a boost leak check preformed on your car, if you have an air compressor and a little bit of knowledge you can do this yourself and save $30 to $50+.
At this point you need to make some decisions. What is the end goal, what fuel do you want to run? There are some changes in the path based on these decisions, and form here out, you pretty much have to get tuned after every mod, so I will put them in groups so you dont waste a lot of money on tunes.
6 - Cams and Injectors - Ill start with Injectors, the smallest you should buy is 1000cc, they will still run fine on pump gas and you will have room to handle a fair amount of future mods, even have some room to play if you decide to go the E85 route. Also, if you run out of injector with 1000cc then you have to use a double pumper system for fuel delivery. This is one of the places I to think about your future goals with the car. Next cams, everyone has different opinions for cams, I personally recommend a short duration (Not greater that 272) and as high of lift as you can get, my favorite cams out are the Kelford 272s they offer great driveability, and preform well for both large and small turbo applications.
7- Intercooler, intake and Intercooler pipes, for sure BOV at this point. - Intercoolers, fairly simple, buy a 3" core or greater, buy a name brand, it doesn't really matter who, buschurs are supposed to be the "best" but they use the same inter core at ETS and AMS, in reality it doesn't matter to much and they all fit really well. Stay away from the no names, and ebay stuff they generally fit like crap, a lot of them use nice cores, but the terrible fitment negates that positive. Intercooler pipes, pretty much the same story, STAY AWAY FROM injen, they fit terrible and the position of the Blow off Valve is absolutely terrible. - this is another freebie as far as tune is concerned, so same as before of course the make the most out of the mods you should get tuned, but if you are on a budget, save the cash for the tune now and get it after the next step. It is generally ok to get used here too, just make sure and get pictures, and look for fin damage on the intercooler, a little is ok, but if there are extreme amounts beware!
8 - Turbo, ported Manifold, O2 housing - This is another critical decision to make. I ask the same question, what do you want to get out of the car, a good streetable car that is fun on the road course and fun to drive, dont go to big look in the FPRED (careful with the fpreds, read first), 30r, MAP SST, and CBRD BBK range of turbos, they all have great spool and produce good power, if you are more interested in higher power, drag race applications and willing to sacrifice some spool look in the 35r range and prepare to spend some $$$$$ and buy a quality kit from one of the big names, Buschur, ETS, AMS, etc, used is ok, again get pictures ask about condition and just be careful. If you stick with a stock frame turbo, aka FPred, CBRD, MAP, just get an inexpensive o2 housing, the ebay ones work ok you just need to get someone to clearance the waste gate dump a little bit to avoid boost creep, the open dump tubes are nice, MAP makes a really nice one, but they are loud and Im not 100% convinced they add all that much to the car. Since you have the manifold off the car, at least get it gasket ported, I can give you some tips on this, I have ported a fair amount of manifolds in my time
9 - BUILD THE MOTOR! At this point your car is probably pretty dang quick, and you are potentially flirting with launching a rod through the block. There are a number of different routes to do from here, who ever you have do it, make sure everything is done right, buschur has proven time and time again his blocks are strong and can take a beating, there are also other options, there are some pretty competent engine builders locally (Ill let you make that decision of who) and the possibilities are endless. Dont do drop in piston/rods, that is just cheating, the honing is not done properly leading to a poor ring seal to the bore and you are leaving power on the table. This is a whole other discussion to have when you get to this point.
The above is making the most out of power mods, and assuming you have a budget, I guess kindof stages if you will, but I think stages are goofy, sounds to Fast and the Furious for me.... During all this moding you will probably go through some clutches, brakes etc. You should probably keep in mind to work on the drivetrain, building the Tcase a least at some point also. The other thing I would say is someone is going to come along and tell you, "you have to have head studs" I stand by replace them when you take the head off, if you never blow a head gasket, or never build the engine, then they arent a problem dont do anything. If you take the head off for porting, building your engine etc, certainly put in head studs.
There you go moding and evo in a nutshell.
Please forgive typos spelling and grammar errors... I did this between "mental breaks" at work.... :-)
1 - Fuel pump - Walbro 255, the stock pump has a bypass in it, and just doesnt flow very well, this is sort of a safety thing, and a relatively cheap necessary mod.
2 - 3" Turboback exhaust - buy it used, and go to the meets and hear them, the most important thing is fitment and if you like the sound.
3 - Open filter and vibrant flange - just buy the AmsOil filter it works really well and the filter it top notch (this is not 100% nessary if you have a good drop in filter, but the stock box is a bit of a restriction)
4 - BOV (if evo 9 you can omit this) - I have the forge adjustable one, but the important part here is make sure that whatever you get, you get one that is RECIRCULATED NOT VTA
5 - Lower Intercooler Pipe (the one that goes between the turbo and the intercooler) and some T-bolts for the upper intercooler pipe (the one on the engine side of the intercooler) - Not 100% necessary but if you find a used one cheap enough get it now cause there are some gains to be had here. The upper pipe doesnt offer much power gains, and if you get a set of T-bolt clamps you can avoid the issue of pipes popping off when you up the boost in the next step.
6 - Boost controller - 3port ecu controlled is the best, you can buy all the parts to make it your self for about $50 (Ill add the GM part numbers when I get home, but a lot of people are making them and selling them plug and play, its up to you (I also found where to get the connectors to make a plug and play one too) (MUST GET TUNED AFTER THIS) I put this here because you can get way without tuning right way until this step and not risk blowing anything up, that said to get the most out of any aftermarket part you should get tuned. I would also suggest before you get tuned to have a boost leak check preformed on your car, if you have an air compressor and a little bit of knowledge you can do this yourself and save $30 to $50+.
At this point you need to make some decisions. What is the end goal, what fuel do you want to run? There are some changes in the path based on these decisions, and form here out, you pretty much have to get tuned after every mod, so I will put them in groups so you dont waste a lot of money on tunes.
6 - Cams and Injectors - Ill start with Injectors, the smallest you should buy is 1000cc, they will still run fine on pump gas and you will have room to handle a fair amount of future mods, even have some room to play if you decide to go the E85 route. Also, if you run out of injector with 1000cc then you have to use a double pumper system for fuel delivery. This is one of the places I to think about your future goals with the car. Next cams, everyone has different opinions for cams, I personally recommend a short duration (Not greater that 272) and as high of lift as you can get, my favorite cams out are the Kelford 272s they offer great driveability, and preform well for both large and small turbo applications.
7- Intercooler, intake and Intercooler pipes, for sure BOV at this point. - Intercoolers, fairly simple, buy a 3" core or greater, buy a name brand, it doesn't really matter who, buschurs are supposed to be the "best" but they use the same inter core at ETS and AMS, in reality it doesn't matter to much and they all fit really well. Stay away from the no names, and ebay stuff they generally fit like crap, a lot of them use nice cores, but the terrible fitment negates that positive. Intercooler pipes, pretty much the same story, STAY AWAY FROM injen, they fit terrible and the position of the Blow off Valve is absolutely terrible. - this is another freebie as far as tune is concerned, so same as before of course the make the most out of the mods you should get tuned, but if you are on a budget, save the cash for the tune now and get it after the next step. It is generally ok to get used here too, just make sure and get pictures, and look for fin damage on the intercooler, a little is ok, but if there are extreme amounts beware!
8 - Turbo, ported Manifold, O2 housing - This is another critical decision to make. I ask the same question, what do you want to get out of the car, a good streetable car that is fun on the road course and fun to drive, dont go to big look in the FPRED (careful with the fpreds, read first), 30r, MAP SST, and CBRD BBK range of turbos, they all have great spool and produce good power, if you are more interested in higher power, drag race applications and willing to sacrifice some spool look in the 35r range and prepare to spend some $$$$$ and buy a quality kit from one of the big names, Buschur, ETS, AMS, etc, used is ok, again get pictures ask about condition and just be careful. If you stick with a stock frame turbo, aka FPred, CBRD, MAP, just get an inexpensive o2 housing, the ebay ones work ok you just need to get someone to clearance the waste gate dump a little bit to avoid boost creep, the open dump tubes are nice, MAP makes a really nice one, but they are loud and Im not 100% convinced they add all that much to the car. Since you have the manifold off the car, at least get it gasket ported, I can give you some tips on this, I have ported a fair amount of manifolds in my time
9 - BUILD THE MOTOR! At this point your car is probably pretty dang quick, and you are potentially flirting with launching a rod through the block. There are a number of different routes to do from here, who ever you have do it, make sure everything is done right, buschur has proven time and time again his blocks are strong and can take a beating, there are also other options, there are some pretty competent engine builders locally (Ill let you make that decision of who) and the possibilities are endless. Dont do drop in piston/rods, that is just cheating, the honing is not done properly leading to a poor ring seal to the bore and you are leaving power on the table. This is a whole other discussion to have when you get to this point.
The above is making the most out of power mods, and assuming you have a budget, I guess kindof stages if you will, but I think stages are goofy, sounds to Fast and the Furious for me.... During all this moding you will probably go through some clutches, brakes etc. You should probably keep in mind to work on the drivetrain, building the Tcase a least at some point also. The other thing I would say is someone is going to come along and tell you, "you have to have head studs" I stand by replace them when you take the head off, if you never blow a head gasket, or never build the engine, then they arent a problem dont do anything. If you take the head off for porting, building your engine etc, certainly put in head studs.
There you go moding and evo in a nutshell.
Please forgive typos spelling and grammar errors... I did this between "mental breaks" at work.... :-)
Last edited by denver; Apr 20, 2010 at 10:55 AM.
Apr 20, 2010, 01:32 PM
#27
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Amen to that brother! I'm still having to pay for crap to replace the crap that I went out and bought a couple of years ago. Definitely have a goal in mind, take your time, and do some research. If I could go back and do it all over again I would A: go with either all Buschur, AMS, or ETS parts or B: leave my car mostly stock with the exception of basic bolt on's, cams, and a tune.
Happy motoring
Apr 20, 2010, 02:42 PM
#29
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I will not buy, support, or suggest ever buying anything from GSC after the way they treated people when their cams FAILED! ask Tim how much support he got! at least kelford let you exchange their cams for a set with the new improved core.....
Apr 20, 2010, 02:50 PM
#30
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Their business model in that situation sucks horribly, but I would still buy their new series of s2 cams because they are a solid cam. Also look at my text!!!