local Pittsburgh Meet
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We spent about 45 mins on the dyno, first pull was 287whp 290wtq @ 24psi, (pump gas, stock airbox and catted dp), Last pull made 331whp and i 330wtq @ 24.5-25psi. havent looked at the sheet in awhile. tq number might be a hair different
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im not sure, this is the first time i really got my hands on his car, we both put our ideas into play and the car kept responding everytime, not only gaining 40+ peak hp and tq but the gains in the midrange were huge to, his whole graph from spool up on went up
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Has nothing to do with being a master tuner (not sure where you pulled that from) - it has all to do with giving good information, not TURN THE SCREW.
There is a process to adjusting the base idle, if your going to do it DO IT RIGHT. It's not my manual - its the OEM mitsu manual, take it up with them if you would like it changed to "i pretend i know what im doing edition".
Who said it would hurt? I suggest to everyone to adjust it but do it properly. Your explanation of - "hey man just turn the screw" doesn't help anyone.......
There is a process to adjusting the base idle, if your going to do it DO IT RIGHT. It's not my manual - its the OEM mitsu manual, take it up with them if you would like it changed to "i pretend i know what im doing edition".
Who said it would hurt? I suggest to everyone to adjust it but do it properly. Your explanation of - "hey man just turn the screw" doesn't help anyone.......
It worked for him anyways, but i think this is more on what you were looking for from me then.
"DO IT PROPERLY" . . .
Travis manual
Page 28
Article 19
Paragraph 5
" After opening your favorite tool box, gently grab your favorite screw driver, holding it within your palm, press firmly with your thumb as if you were cupping it. Then with your other 4 fingers wrap it around the screw driver making sure you have a tight grip. When the tight grip is accomplished, you then have to carefully transport the screw driver from your tool box to the throttle body making sure to wear safety goggles and a any other protective gear to prevent any harm to yourself. While aiming it to the set screw, it may force you to twist your wrist at a 40 DEG angle which will also make your elbow now an angle I cannot predict because i dont know the total length of his arm, or if he has any other bends on his for arm or a limp wrist. "
I hope the write up on how to use a screw driver was good enough for ya trav
Again, I suggested something, and in end it worked.
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i tried it on my evo8, and it would read, but not write, and for the two sti's we tuned the past two weeks, it wont even connect. its useless. Ya jim your cable is what i used to tune the sti's, it was just an unreal pain in the ***, they have a test connector under the dash you have to connect everytime your going to flash the ecu, then disconnect it, do a pull, re-connect, etc etc. And we used it the other night on shawn's evo, which turned out some really impressive numbers, i was very surprised. The honda is fine lol, np, my poor del sol has been out in the snow for a couple days, because we just havent had room in the place, so your cars not lonely
If i recall nate ordered one and it took like 2 months to come in. It didnt work either.
Soo i dont think you are the only one having problems. Call him, may have found a solution since then, or just tossed it.
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You can also aimlessly spend 20 grand to run high 11's. Instead of aimlessly turning screws on the car till something works people like travis suggest sit back, learn how the system works, and properly adjust it. You have your way and he has his.
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" After opening your favorite tool box, gently grab your favorite screw driver, holding it within your palm, press firmly with your thumb as if you were cupping it. Then with your other 4 fingers wrap it around the screw driver making sure you have a tight grip. When the tight grip is accomplished, you then have to carefully transport the screw driver from your tool box to the throttle body making sure to wear safety goggles and a any other protective gear to prevent any harm to yourself. While aiming it to the set screw, it may force you to twist your wrist at a 40 DEG angle which will also make your elbow now an angle I cannot predict because i dont know the total length of his arm, or if he has any other bends on his for arm or a limp wrist. "
I hope the write up on how to use a screw driver was good enough for ya trav
I hope the write up on how to use a screw driver was good enough for ya trav
Funny you mock me for stating the proper steps of setting the base idle screw - instead of not taking your approach of "get a screw driver and turn it"... its a shame your so ignorant to someone that wants to add some technical information to the topic to better explain how to do something right, instead of following this simple approach...
As this is getting lost in all the nonsense that is peteypab here is the steps to adjusting the BISS once more....in "real" simple terms.
basically:
- Warm the car up, turn off all electrical items - stereo, lights, dome light, etc.
- Activate the SAS actuator
- Watch the tach - then adjust the screw while keeping it in SAS mode until the tack reads 800 rpms +/- 50 rpms.
- De-activate SAS mode
The car may idle high or low at first depending on how far off it was - you usually have to drive the car for a while so the ecu can re-learn. Once everything is complete the car should idle very very close to the target idle setting in the ecu.
- Warm the car up, turn off all electrical items - stereo, lights, dome light, etc.
- Activate the SAS actuator
- Watch the tach - then adjust the screw while keeping it in SAS mode until the tack reads 800 rpms +/- 50 rpms.
- De-activate SAS mode
The car may idle high or low at first depending on how far off it was - you usually have to drive the car for a while so the ecu can re-learn. Once everything is complete the car should idle very very close to the target idle setting in the ecu.
Final note i have seen some so out of adjustment the second i activated the SAS actuator the car stalled but without the actuator activated the car idled still - but with the proper BISS setting it wont work as hard to idle hence all around better drive-ability.
I dont expect Eric to understand this information because its not caveman talk but I expect more mockery and back pedaling as we all know its what he is good at....
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Hahaha. Since day one I never got involved in the Eric Petor fights and today is not the day to change that. Trav, I totally respect u and everyone else on here, but eric u just made me laugh for like 5 minutes with that ****
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i tried it on my evo8, and it would read, but not write, and for the two sti's we tuned the past two weeks, it wont even connect. its useless. Ya jim your cable is what i used to tune the sti's, it was just an unreal pain in the ***, they have a test connector under the dash you have to connect everytime your going to flash the ecu, then disconnect it, do a pull, re-connect, etc etc. And we used it the other night on shawn's evo, which turned out some really impressive numbers, i was very surprised. The honda is fine lol, np, my poor del sol has been out in the snow for a couple days, because we just havent had room in the place, so your cars not lonely
http://www.tactrix.com/product_info.php?products_id=48
It can only be used with the OP 2.0.
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I have $400 invested in my car running 11's with a CRACKED DIVIDER WALL.
Why sit back, when you can take initiative.
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me used peteypabs instuktuns and the screw made the injen fall out. so me cave man just sit in car like hot tub.
No i totally respected the member asking the question. The way i saw it was, i throw out an idea, if he attempted it already he would say "tried that" or if he was interested in the idea he would say "tell me more". You think im a monster trav, but really im a guy with feelings. That cave man remark really hurt them...
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yes we purchased a whole package kit, like i said it worked once on my car to log. Then tried to tune a newer sti with it to no avail. also hasnt worked since then on any car.
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Did you try using it with another laptop? Updating the ECUflash and EvoScan software? I have had a terrible time with cables/logging software for my car, it always seems to be one issue or another. I would say try a different laptop or different port and reinstall the software. I know thats a crappy suggestion. I will bring my laptop up and you can give it a shot (OS X or Windows 7) if you'd like.
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On another note, peteypab, where the **** did you get a picture of a gutted evo in the park? The other crap was obviously photoshopped, but wtf is with the rolling chassis in a park? Random picture indeed.
As for the advice and whose to use. One (petey) is a quick fix, that might solve the problem, however when the weather changes or another variable comes into play the idle will only be further from what you want it and can possibly cause more problems (rev higher at idle than desired, etc.). The other (travs) will fix it guaranteed and also help you get a slight insight into tuning and dealing with the issues that arise from a modified car when the seasons change.
I don't mean to step on anyones toes, or to throw more gas on the fire, but it just seems like you should get travs a shot, if you get lost or struggle with it, try peteys for the quick fix.
Good luck with it
As for the advice and whose to use. One (petey) is a quick fix, that might solve the problem, however when the weather changes or another variable comes into play the idle will only be further from what you want it and can possibly cause more problems (rev higher at idle than desired, etc.). The other (travs) will fix it guaranteed and also help you get a slight insight into tuning and dealing with the issues that arise from a modified car when the seasons change.
I don't mean to step on anyones toes, or to throw more gas on the fire, but it just seems like you should get travs a shot, if you get lost or struggle with it, try peteys for the quick fix.
Good luck with it
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That was a cave man, and that is my face so that would make me that caveman no photoshops there !!!