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Feb 13, 2008, 12:56 PM
#7756
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Front suspension is making a clunk/pop sound (intermittent) when rolling while making a turn on uneven surfaces. I've narrowed it down to the strut insulator / upper spring seat.
It has no suspension modifications, just a TBE.
I replaced mine with stainless bolts, FWIW.
It has no suspension modifications, just a TBE.
I replaced mine with stainless bolts, FWIW.
You will have no problems getting that looked at and possibly warrantied with just a TBE
Feb 13, 2008, 01:56 PM
#7758
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Hey guys still have a few things for sale
HKS 272 CAMSHAFTS
GT3076R TURBO KIT(OR TURBO ONLY)
FIC 850cc INJECTORS
SBR FMIC GARRETT CORE 24X12X3.5
The turbo kit consist's of HAFE Stainless Steel Cast manifold, Garrett ball bearing turbo with a .63 turbine housing, HAFE Stainless Steel Cast O2 housing, Tial 44mm wastegate with both dump and recirculation pipe, 4inch intake with pipe/filter/ and a 4inch maf adapter to allow use of the stock maf sensor. And stainless oil feed line with filter , and oil return line.
The nice thing about this kit is the fact that it will bolt to either the stock downpipe or any downpipe that bolts to factory location , which is almost every downpipe
The Camshafts had made a +28 whp on a before and after with the stock turbo.
The GT30R had gone 11.1's @ 125 mph. It has only seen up to 28psi.
The GT30R turbo is a very good street turbo, hitting 20psi @ 4100 rpm with much more topend pull. I think there is probably another 4-5 mph to be had out of this setup if it was tuned with C16
HKS 272 CAMSHAFTS
GT3076R TURBO KIT(OR TURBO ONLY)
FIC 850cc INJECTORS
SBR FMIC GARRETT CORE 24X12X3.5
The turbo kit consist's of HAFE Stainless Steel Cast manifold, Garrett ball bearing turbo with a .63 turbine housing, HAFE Stainless Steel Cast O2 housing, Tial 44mm wastegate with both dump and recirculation pipe, 4inch intake with pipe/filter/ and a 4inch maf adapter to allow use of the stock maf sensor. And stainless oil feed line with filter , and oil return line.
The nice thing about this kit is the fact that it will bolt to either the stock downpipe or any downpipe that bolts to factory location , which is almost every downpipe
The Camshafts had made a +28 whp on a before and after with the stock turbo.
The GT30R had gone 11.1's @ 125 mph. It has only seen up to 28psi.
The GT30R turbo is a very good street turbo, hitting 20psi @ 4100 rpm with much more topend pull. I think there is probably another 4-5 mph to be had out of this setup if it was tuned with C16
Last edited by steelcityevo8; Feb 13, 2008 at 03:02 PM.
Feb 13, 2008, 01:59 PM
#7759
That seems to be a somewhat common issue.....my 04 did it and mondo had a similar issue on his 05. One day it went away but traded it in for an 06 for other reasons. I have recently heard my 06 do it occasionally, I have 32k miles on it - I am waiting to see if its just cold weather related because I cant get it to do it at will and didn't do it until the cold weather hit, its just one day it makes a pop and then goes for days without anything.
You will have no problems getting that looked at and possibly warrantied with just a TBE
You will have no problems getting that looked at and possibly warrantied with just a TBE
Feb 13, 2008, 02:08 PM
#7760
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Front suspension is making a clunk/pop sound (intermittent) when rolling while making a turn on uneven surfaces. I've narrowed it down to the strut insulator / upper spring seat.
It has no suspension modifications, just a TBE.
I replaced mine with stainless bolts, FWIW.
It has no suspension modifications, just a TBE.
I replaced mine with stainless bolts, FWIW.
haha, oh boy. here we go with that damn popping again.
most likely it is the strut mount bearing. someway or other the grease seems to work it's way out of that assembly and most likely needs re greased or replaced. it is a fairly cheap piece to replace, under 20 bucks if i remember correctly.
give baierl a call to look at it, mention the strut mount bearing, i don't think they will bust your ***** about the TBE.
here is the picture from the manual, this is what was causing my problem. since there was little to no grease in there it was causing the spring to bind up until it built enough force to 'pop' back into place. kind of sounds like someone whacking your firewall with a ratchet.
the red arrow points to the offending part obviously. there is a real good chance this is your problem. if it's not, it may be a loose sway bar endlink.
Feb 13, 2008, 02:42 PM
#7761
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hey guys, i havnt been on here much lately so idk wats going on for the spring tuning trip at CBRD.....but i think we should work on getting Jester, i want his tune badly!
Feb 13, 2008, 02:48 PM
#7762
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WOOT clutch is on the way lol.....now all I need is 400 bucks for the install lol Mike here I come!!!!
Oh and I have a like new SAFC-II Apexi silver/blue, 200 bucks plus fees and Shipping comes with the ECU harness adapter.......
SJ
Oh and I have a like new SAFC-II Apexi silver/blue, 200 bucks plus fees and Shipping comes with the ECU harness adapter.......
SJ
Feb 13, 2008, 02:56 PM
#7763
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haha, oh boy. here we go with that damn popping again.
most likely it is the strut mount bearing. someway or other the grease seems to work it's way out of that assembly and most likely needs re greased or replaced. it is a fairly cheap piece to replace, under 20 bucks if i remember correctly.
give baierl a call to look at it, mention the strut mount bearing, i don't think they will bust your ***** about the TBE.
here is the picture from the manual, this is what was causing my problem. since there was little to no grease in there it was causing the spring to bind up until it built enough force to 'pop' back into place. kind of sounds like someone whacking your firewall with a ratchet.
the red arrow points to the offending part obviously. there is a real good chance this is your problem. if it's not, it may be a loose sway bar endlink.
most likely it is the strut mount bearing. someway or other the grease seems to work it's way out of that assembly and most likely needs re greased or replaced. it is a fairly cheap piece to replace, under 20 bucks if i remember correctly.
give baierl a call to look at it, mention the strut mount bearing, i don't think they will bust your ***** about the TBE.
here is the picture from the manual, this is what was causing my problem. since there was little to no grease in there it was causing the spring to bind up until it built enough force to 'pop' back into place. kind of sounds like someone whacking your firewall with a ratchet.
the red arrow points to the offending part obviously. there is a real good chance this is your problem. if it's not, it may be a loose sway bar endlink.
Anyway this could be a "going Bad" axle? I notice this in my 03 and was thinking it was my axle. Front right area.......oh and how did you norrow it down, when you only hear it when rolling? I hope you are right that its the mount, cause those are cheaper haha
SJ
Feb 13, 2008, 03:33 PM
#7764
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i had a hell of a time narrowing it down. i was dealing with south park mitsu at the time, who i do not like one bit.
i had the car in to them at least a dozen times and they couldn't figure it out. luckily about a year and a half ago some of us local owners met up with a guy from MMNA. he had a fiance in pittsburgh and wanted to stop out and show us the new IX and collect some opinions on what the X should be like while he was visiting with her parents.
well long story short, he ended up seeing my post about the problem, and being the good natured guy that he was, asked the suspension developer for the USDM evo about it. the guy said the only thing he could really think of was that bearing.
sure enough, i go back to south park and tell them to change that part, they did, and what do you know, no more problem.
apperently when they inspected the bearing assembly after removal they noticed that most if not all of the grease had worked it's way out of the assembly, thus causing the spring to bind.
so whenever this kind of noise crops up for people, i always suggest they check this first, because it is an easy thing to look into, and a cheap part to fix. like travis said, a bunch of us have had this problem, and it always seems to come back to that bearing. i believe EvoDan also had the exact same issue.
i always like when i can help people with this, because it is one of the few things on the evo that i have a very good understanding of, and lots of personal experience with.
it is a tricky noise to diagnose too, at first i thought the noise was coming from the rear of the car, because of the way it was echoing around. but after a couple months of driving around with it, it started to progressively get worse, and was easily identifiable as coming from the front end.
mine always happened when i was turning at low speed with the wheel at or near full lock, but i have seen cases of people getting it when going in a straight line or turning at higher speeds.
Feb 13, 2008, 04:30 PM
#7766
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you can regrease. there is just a plastic cover on top of it that you can pop off right from inside the engine bay without taking anything apart.
replacing it would require a spring compressor and dropping the whole strut assembly (5 bolts). then of course getting it re aligned after words.
depending if it is damaged or not, regreasing might fix the problem very quickly. i would at least give that a try, because if it doesn't work, you've only wasted a couple dollars worth of grease. haha.
what i did on my IX to make sure i didn't have the same problem as my VIII was just to put camber plates on it. they completely replace that part, and the works one i got seem to have a much better spherical bearing in them. so no problems thus far. or i am sure you could order the part through a dealer or one of the sites that sells stock parts. it's not really something that is intricate of complicated.
the biggest pain in the *** when replacing them is trying to hold a cresent wrench on the end of the strut to keep it from spinning while you tighten it down.
replacing it would require a spring compressor and dropping the whole strut assembly (5 bolts). then of course getting it re aligned after words.
depending if it is damaged or not, regreasing might fix the problem very quickly. i would at least give that a try, because if it doesn't work, you've only wasted a couple dollars worth of grease. haha.
what i did on my IX to make sure i didn't have the same problem as my VIII was just to put camber plates on it. they completely replace that part, and the works one i got seem to have a much better spherical bearing in them. so no problems thus far. or i am sure you could order the part through a dealer or one of the sites that sells stock parts. it's not really something that is intricate of complicated.
the biggest pain in the *** when replacing them is trying to hold a cresent wrench on the end of the strut to keep it from spinning while you tighten it down.
Feb 13, 2008, 04:40 PM
#7767
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so far....You,Justin and I. I'm not opposed to a Jester tune but for me it would have to be in person and on a mustang dyno.
Feb 13, 2008, 04:46 PM
#7768
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Actually the stock mitsu upper part is designed to flex. The bearing is only to allow the top of the strut to rotate when steering. The upper pillow mount as it is called just flexes when the suspension compresses and the shock takes on a new angle. The noise you hear is the ball bearing possibly popping in its races as it binds due to not having lubricant and possibly getting dirt in it.
Camber plates are a good fix
Camber plates are a good fix
Feb 13, 2008, 05:07 PM
#7770
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Hey guys still have a few things for sale
HKS 272 CAMSHAFTS
GT3076R TURBO KIT(OR TURBO ONLY)
FIC 850cc INJECTORS
SBR FMIC GARRETT CORE 24X12X3.5
The turbo kit consist's of HAFE Stainless Steel Cast manifold, Garrett ball bearing turbo with a .63 turbine housing, HAFE Stainless Steel Cast O2 housing, Tial 44mm wastegate with both dump and recirculation pipe, 4inch intake with pipe/filter/ and a 4inch maf adapter to allow use of the stock maf sensor. And stainless oil feed line with filter , and oil return line.
The nice thing about this kit is the fact that it will bolt to either the stock downpipe or any downpipe that bolts to factory location , which is almost every downpipe
The Camshafts had made a +28 whp on a before and after with the stock turbo.
The GT30R had gone 11.1's @ 125 mph. It has only seen up to 28psi.
The GT30R turbo is a very good street turbo, hitting 20psi @ 4100 rpm with much more topend pull. I think there is probably another 4-5 mph to be had out of this setup if it was tuned with C16
HKS 272 CAMSHAFTS
GT3076R TURBO KIT(OR TURBO ONLY)
FIC 850cc INJECTORS
SBR FMIC GARRETT CORE 24X12X3.5
The turbo kit consist's of HAFE Stainless Steel Cast manifold, Garrett ball bearing turbo with a .63 turbine housing, HAFE Stainless Steel Cast O2 housing, Tial 44mm wastegate with both dump and recirculation pipe, 4inch intake with pipe/filter/ and a 4inch maf adapter to allow use of the stock maf sensor. And stainless oil feed line with filter , and oil return line.
The nice thing about this kit is the fact that it will bolt to either the stock downpipe or any downpipe that bolts to factory location , which is almost every downpipe
The Camshafts had made a +28 whp on a before and after with the stock turbo.
The GT30R had gone 11.1's @ 125 mph. It has only seen up to 28psi.
The GT30R turbo is a very good street turbo, hitting 20psi @ 4100 rpm with much more topend pull. I think there is probably another 4-5 mph to be had out of this setup if it was tuned with C16