Mike01gsr

iTrader: (33)

How did the tie rod come out? Did you need a popper? Thats what I'm worried about most.

Thegame

iTrader: (26)

Guys I get discounts at Sears. You should have told me man, I could've at least gotten you a $30 discount on your $300 purchase. Probably even more.

Also, if you have a 220 V compressor, hook it up as 220. Much, much cheaper to operate. If you're not sure what kind of service you have, just peak inside your electrical panel. If you can't do that, check your dryer and water heater (if electric and not gas). Chances are if you only have 110 V service, you'll only have a 60 amp or so panel. If anyone needs any electrical assistance, I'm the man to call.

xsolowx

iTrader: (8)

The way mine is set up is weird....in the house at the main breaker it is setup as 220V. The wires run across the basement and is tied into a junction box at the far wall prior to going out to the underground line to the garage. Then there is a sub-panel in the garage. But I am only getting 115V at the subpanel. I only have one 20A breaker used in the garage since there is not much even connected to it out there yet. Im not sure what is going on but i guess i could figure out how to the 220 out to the garage.

Thegame

iTrader: (26)

Find me out the total amps of your main and sub panels. 300 and 80? Something like that? Especially if it's a newer house and it's a large house, you shouldn't have any issues making the sub panel 220. When you say you're only getting 120, what are you testing?

travman

iTrader: (26)

Good deal

xsolowx

iTrader: (8)

Ill look at it when i get home..the house is old, and kinda small but both boxes were new.the garage is a 30' X 30' detached building . they replaced some of the wiring and left some of the existing wiring. My guess is that they did that since the price of copper wire is so high right now. Something funky is going on in that junction box in the basement, i guess i just need to figure out where all of those wires are going.

Thegame

iTrader: (26)

Okay, I'll try to make it simple. If it's an older home, then I'm guessing you have a 200 amp main and a 40 or 60 amp sub. I have no idea what your electrical experience is, but I'll put it plainly. The easiest way to know for sure what the sub panel is, is to find the breaker in the main panel that controls the sub panel. It will be a 40, 50, 60, or around there, amp breaker. If it's a double poll breaker, then you have 240 in the sub. If it's a single pole breaker, then you have 110. (110, 120, 125 is all the same voltage for those who didn't know. Different electricians call it different numbers. Just like 220, 230, 240 or even 250. Alternating current will vary. Just don't confuse 277 with 240.) Anyhow, just to make sure, shut off that breaker that controls the sub-panel and take the sub-panel's cover off. Should be 4 screws. Check to see what color the main feeds into the sub panel are. By code, you should see One black, one red, one white, and one green (or bare) wire. Since it was just upgraded, I'm going to assume everything's grounded. Older homes didn't have grounds. If you don't see the red feed wire, look for a second black wire. If you don't see either, you don't have 220 in the sub. If you do see the extra hot wire, just do a quick test to verify. Be very careful, but power on the sub panel breaker. Then get your multimeter and turn it to "V." See what you have at each feeder wire (black and red) alone. Test it going to ground or to the neutral bus bar. Should be like 117. Then, measure the voltage going from one black to the red wire. There, you should read 220. Installing from there would be easy. That'll be tomorrow's lesson!

NEC codes for Wires - Phases aren't an issue in residential (I only do commercial)

Black - 120 V first phase
Red - 120 V second phase
Blue - 120 V third phase
White - Neutral
Green or bare - Ground

Brown - 277 first phase
Orange - 277 second phase
Yellow - 277 third phase
Grey - Neutral
Green - Ground

Peteypab2133

iTrader: (27)

Some old photos i found that i never posted...

Thegame

iTrader: (26)

Lastly, for copper wire (not aluminum)

14 gauge wire for 15 amp circuit
12 gauge for 20 amps
10 for 30 amps

When dealing with 220 for appliances, divide the amps on the double poll breaker
by 2 and match the appropriate wire gauge above.

Brining up another point. Not sure what the NEC code is, but you should never load a breaker by more than 80%. In other words, if your compressor is, let's say 4800 watts, then you'd want to use a 30 amp breaker rather than a 20.

Amps = Wattage / Voltage

Thegame

iTrader: (26)

Those ones in motion are sweet!

Canexican

iTrader: (7)

PeteyPab, were those blue guages difficult to install? Did it mess up your tach or speedo? I had something like that on my good 'ol 3000GT SL, but they were so ghetto and I messed up the install, so my speedo and tach were permanently off.

steelcityevo8

iTrader: (18)

All residentual electric service is a 220 vac service.

It would be very simple to add a 220 v.a.c. circuit to operate the compressor. Is the Main panel in the garage or basement???

Peteypab2133

iTrader: (27)

Thanks!


They took about 25 minutes to do without breaking anything.

And no, they dont interfere with any needles or tachs. They are color changing too.

Some people think they are rice. And not useful. BUT... Now my tach goes to over 180 mph.. sooo to me its worth it!

SpeedJunkyz

iTrader: (16)

$%&#@!$# $%#!@&66 ^&$#$#$^%$!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the offer lol



Im not sure my friend I will have to look lol. I live at Bethel Park Retirement. A Huge three story building, but Im running the compressor out in the garage...... Im not even sure how to check what I have in the garage. Im not electrical at all

SpeedJunkyz

iTrader: (16)

Can someone help me! I need the Sway bar extenderz that lower the swaybars to where my DP clears it. I seen one company that sells them with the DP they sell but I forget who that was.