Peteypab2133

iTrader: (27)

haha thought it would be like anything else from the dealer. My 2 down pipe bolts with 2 nutts were $22.00 my fuse block on the positive terminal was $15 soo i kind of figured the wires would be like $60+ bucks for stock wires.

haha i almost just paid some dude $30 for used ones

travman

iTrader: (26)

That is why u dont buy from the "dealer" there are other places where you get oem parts at pretty much cost....

whoops - spoiled the party for him

dan l

iTrader: (3)

Make sure you buy evo 8 wires, they work great.......

Peteypab2133

iTrader: (27)

thought they were the same part # from 2002 till 2006

or was this a joke ?

Obviously the plugs on a 9 are like 26mm of thread depth vs the 19mm i believe for the 8's

travman

iTrader: (26)

not according to advanced auto parts.......they will try and sell VIII plugs 24/7.

Peteypab2133

iTrader: (27)

this is true. I am on my 3rd set of ix plugs and they attempt to sell me 8 plugs each time.

The iflrh7 plugs are what i run. laser iridium

dan l

iTrader: (3)

I got a champher bit to countersink my head. Then I chucked up an endmill in my hand drill to take out 7mm so that I can run BPR8ES plugs. That way I can run the same plugs in my DSM as my Ebo.

MondoBongo

iTrader: (10)

you're going to have the first evo built primarily with dsm parts.

dan l

iTrader: (3)

Actually I mix and match. Some of the evo engine parts are better than my DSM stuff. Some of the DSM stuff is better than the evo stuff (my DSM transmission is basically an evo transmission). Also some of the evo electronics leave a lot to be desired, so yeah I'm digging through my parts to find **** to bolt up to the evo.

killthelights14

iTrader: (2)

okay so i brought my car to get inspected today and they said that the ecu was not ready for inspection. I reset it 857 miles ago and 3 of 8 things that needed reset were not resetting. one of them being the 02 sensor...WTH i never have trouble getting cars to pass catless until now. No check engine lights, no nothing. Any ideas? Or can anyone point me in the right direction here...

Peteypab2133

iTrader: (27)

So let me ask you this, did you attempt to reset everything maybe a day before you went down there, or right before hand? If you did, actually will say pending, which means failed. You cannot trick the ECU that way. some say its easier to buy that plug in 02 simulator, i always used the spark plug fouler trick. just buy one, drill it with a 1/2 drill bit slide the 02 sensor in it, and wha la!

that my advice. Passed for me.

Edit: just noticed it was 857 miles ago. Thats a lot of miles, but honestly, my car when i would do that would take some time 50 miles or 2 months. never understood what made it decide when is when.

travman

iTrader: (26)

Well needless to say I have become quiet informed with this type of thing recently with my own car....

First what 3 things did not show as "ready"?

I'm guessing O2 was one from above post? That is your front O2, rear O2 is the cat efficiency "ready" monitor.

Next you can pass with (1) ready monitor "not ready" - as long as it isn't catalytic converter or evap. My front O2 will not set no matter what I do but I past because you are allowed to have it "not ready" as long as you have no others "not ready".

but again I can help more if I know what the other 2 are.....

travman

iTrader: (26)

There is now a patch for the stock ecu now that simulates the rear O2 signal so you can remove it, keep it in for "visual" inspection or whatever....You will never see a cel, and the ready monitor is always "ready". No more required hacks or anti-foulers.....just a reflash and done.

Second the test for OBD-II that shows O2 sensor is the front (not the rear) the rear is the catalytic converter.

Peteypab2133

iTrader: (27)

thats awesome!

Thegame

iTrader: (26)

Now if only someone can find the patch for the damn X TPMS! I can't believe you cannot disable it.