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Old Jun 23, 2008, 06:01 AM
  #15106  
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Originally Posted by Marshall O
And Turco....We are totally not friends any more. Went to play a little GH3 this weekend...game freezes...then the red ring of death!
hahahaha thats what you get sucker!
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by IMR-TIM
yeah...I guess they are. jdm ix mr valve fixored the problem.

EDIT: car will feel awesome> after the struts and springs are done
good to hear you fixed it!!
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by crazymikie
I pick her up tomorrow or Tuesday....

SICK!!!!

Originally Posted by IMR-TIM
Mikie- Congrats on the V!!!

So, a big sigh of relief on my part....I has no more boost leak. Bad diaphram in the GReddy Type RS. gay. I better nowz.
Awesome!!!

while i'm still a newb i'm available for helping to own your new suspension. let me know!

EDIT:

anyone have suggestions for fixing the Audi? marshall whats that RTV stuff u mentioned. I haven't investigated the problem much yet... but i plan on make a good effort to fix it before dumping the car. i don't think she will pass inspection tho if she leaves oil on the ground...
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 06:43 AM
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Find out where it is leaking from, get a new gasket if there is one, if not shove some RTV (get it at any auto parts store) in there to at least slow it down...
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 06:53 AM
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Paul, I agree with Marshall that RTV would be a good interim solution but I don't think replacing the rear main seal would cost more than (or anywhere near) $1000. I would seriously consider getting some quotes on the repair. Otherwise the RTV should be fine.
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by crazymikie
I pick her up tomorrow or Tuesday....

HOT! Nice color choice, too. What's your preferred tire manufacturer? I think I'll buy stock in them .
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 06:59 AM
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Oh, I forgot it was the rear main seal...either way, get it clean, RTV it, let it sit for a day, drive it on. And it should definitely NOT cost $1000 to fix it! Why not do it yourself and get some good experience on it? You could take your time and everything...I did it on my GSX (timing belt, removed balance shafts, replaced all seals & gaskets, new water pump & pipes, new head, cam swap, etc) without 'knowing' what I was doing...
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Marshall O
Oh, I forgot it was the rear main seal...either way, get it clean, RTV it, let it sit for a day, drive it on. And it should definitely NOT cost $1000 to fix it! Why not do it yourself and get some good experience on it? You could take your time and everything...I did it on my GSX (timing belt, removed balance shafts, replaced all seals & gaskets, new water pump & pipes, new head, cam swap, etc) without 'knowing' what I was doing...
ever work on a car with 100k miles of NE winters where the car was not taken care of. That said, ever work on parts of a car heavily exposed to the road with 100k miles of NE winters that wasn't taken care of? Yeah I don't think it is worth $1k but i would gladly pay for someone to take care of that.
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 07:10 AM
  #15114  
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My car had 130,xxx on it...all NE winters, and I worked on my Talon which had 175,xxx miles on it. So yes, I have.
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 07:13 AM
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Doing a rear main seal sucks on just about every car. Seperating the trans from teh block to change the seal FTL!!! Paul, do exactly what Marshall said. Try that first. It is your cheapest way out at this piont. We get 10+/hrs labor to change a rear main seal here minus parts...

Pual, also check with Audi for a schematic of the PCV (crankcase ventalation) system. Excess crankcase pressure is what our #1 cause for the rear mains to leak on our Volvo's here. I bet if this vehicle has an external oil trap box and affiliated hoses, and has not been serviced, I bet it is all gunked and plugged up. Causing the oil to be pushed through the seal(s). If you plan to keep this car, check that PCV system. And you may relieve the excess pressure that is coming through from that area. You may not have to change the seal. But definitely worth looking into...
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 07:23 AM
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What it is Homeslices! (and homeslicettes!)

Mikie - sweet V!!!! can't wait to check it out. <3




Originally Posted by avengerhed
They should ALWAYS hook up your ECU and you should NEVER pass with a CEL. Paul: I am really really really shocked that they didn't hook up your OBDII. I didn't think the system would allow them to process a sticker with out a clean (No CEL) OBDII read.
they can enter in the pass/fail manually - so they definitely don't have to hook up the OBD2 scanner, especially if they're feeling lazy. (or in my case don't care)



Originally Posted by Marshall O
I didn't think there are any CEL's that do not affect either safety or emmisions? Never heard of this, so know of any of the top of your head? Most common are fuel related (sensor, trims, etc), emmisions related (something unplugged - whoops, where the hell did my charcoal canister, EGR, and every emissions line go?!?!), closed loop (excessive time to enter...), etc. But all of these would fail you!
I also did not think any cels were allowed to pass a safety inspection. I'm pretty sure they can pass you with certain incomplete readiness tests, but none of them can be o2 sensor related.


Originally Posted by IMR-TIM
Mikie- Congrats on the V!!!

So, a big sigh of relief on my part....I has no more boost leak. Bad diaphram in the GReddy Type RS. gay. I better nowz.
awesome!
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by avengerhed
Paul, I agree with Marshall that RTV would be a good interim solution but I don't think replacing the rear main seal would cost more than (or anywhere near) $1000. I would seriously consider getting some quotes on the repair. Otherwise the RTV should be fine.
well if it is the rear main seal... i couldn't get to it to seal it with RTV. replacing that seal means dropping the tranny which is gunna suck on a car that old...
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by IMR-TIM
Pual, also check with Audi for a schematic of the PCV (crankcase ventalation) system. Excess crankcase pressure is what our #1 cause for the rear mains to leak on our Volvo's here. I bet if this vehicle has an external oil trap box and affiliated hoses, and has not been serviced, I bet it is all gunked and plugged up. Causing the oil to be pushed through the seal(s). If you plan to keep this car, check that PCV system. And you may relieve the excess pressure that is coming through from that area. You may not have to change the seal. But definitely worth looking into...
im hoping this is the issue... thx for the advice...

i did notcie that when i changed the oil it appeared to be overfilled even though i know that i didn't put more oil in than the manual called for...
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 07:53 AM
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I deal with plugged/gunked/clogged crankcase issues daily here with Volvo's. Many times we can avoid changing the rear main when servicing the system...you could always get a bunch of non-clorinated brake cleaner and try to clean out the system. That may help, but will only be a temporary solution. But if your hoses are really hard, dry rotted and or plugged solid, you will have to change them out. Plus if teh oil trap box feels heavy, it is probably clogged solid. Not sure how the Audi is, but on all of our 5 cylinders, the box and related hoses are mounted under the intake manifold...shi-tty and tedious job to tackle. Good luck man....search the Audi forums
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 07:58 AM
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i wonder if seaform could help out at all... never used it... i know lots of ppl swear by it...

it might f up my compression tho if carbon deposits are keeping it in check
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