Worcester/Boston Social Thread
Jan 27, 2009, 04:24 PM
maybe lower rebuild cost but I've heard they are a lot worse for daily driveability which I need. I have had 3 surgerys on my left knee including an ACL replacement, so I need something I can handle in dead traffic on a day that my knee is killing me...know what I mean? This single disc is right below what I would consider my comfort threashold.
You're a much smarter man than I, after I broke my knee in highschool I'd rip off the leg brace to drive the 2g dsm with the act 2600. Needless to say I have a few surgeries lined up in the near future.
Jan 27, 2009, 05:15 PM
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I've read of issues related to what you're describing with the twin discs as well. It seems like they only happen in the cold but for now I'd probably try to raise the engagement a bit:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...e-nuetral.html
Personally I think $1500 is too much for a clutch so I'll prob stick with an ACT HDSS but if I was going twin disc I'd go with the Quartermaster twin due to the lower rebuild costs.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...e-nuetral.html
Personally I think $1500 is too much for a clutch so I'll prob stick with an ACT HDSS but if I was going twin disc I'd go with the Quartermaster twin due to the lower rebuild costs.
This is not the problem that Ajay is talking about. He is using confusing terms.
Your clutch is Engaged when the pedal is OUT. You disengage the clutch by pressing the pedal IN. Ajay seems to indicate that his clutch is disengaging- or, slipping- while he drives.
Jan 27, 2009, 05:46 PM
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Last edited by Smike; Jan 28, 2009 at 06:46 AM. Reason: inappropriate
Jan 27, 2009, 07:25 PM
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this has been happening to me for 4 years - stock clutch, most noticeable when it's cold.
This is not the problem that Ajay is talking about. He is using confusing terms.
Your clutch is Engaged when the pedal is OUT. You disengage the clutch by pressing the pedal IN. Ajay seems to indicate that his clutch is disengaging- or, slipping- while he drives.
This is not the problem that Ajay is talking about. He is using confusing terms.
Your clutch is Engaged when the pedal is OUT. You disengage the clutch by pressing the pedal IN. Ajay seems to indicate that his clutch is disengaging- or, slipping- while he drives.
We will have to see if it does it tomorrow.
Josh, did you use your screws for your mudflaps? I thought I remember you saying you used something else to attach them. I ask because one of my screws came out (the one that goes on the inside of the mud flap...closest to the inside of the wheel well. I didn't know if you had an extra kicking around or if anyone knew the size of that screw (I remember one long one, but not how long or where it went.
Eh, I'm rambling. Time to shut it down and turn in.
Jan 28, 2009, 04:36 AM
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So then your clutch is not fully disengaging? Have you bled your lines? Or it might need to be adjusted so it disengages earlier. On the Evo, the engagement point would change, but I could never figure out why it did. I got used to it though and drove on.
SFYL, DBAP.
SFYL, DBAP.
Jan 28, 2009, 05:21 AM
it isn't that it is hard more that it is hard to get to. Then again i am literally twice the size of you. Just remember, a little goes a LONG way when it comes to adjusting the clutch. It is annoying that you cant figure out how much you adjusted it until you drive it but i still recommend doing it in small 1 turn increments.
Jan 28, 2009, 05:36 AM
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I'm all set with that...smelling poo residue is not that cool...regardless the bum its frum 
Great!! When I replaced my clutch about 7k miles ago, it caught much higher then it did prior to clutch failure. And I have to adjust it. I will search it and tackle adjusting it one of these days.
it isn't that it is hard more that it is hard to get to. Then again i am literally twice the size of you. Just remember, a little goes a LONG way when it comes to adjusting the clutch. It is annoying that you cant figure out how much you adjusted it until you drive it but i still recommend doing it in small 1 turn increments.
Great!! When I replaced my clutch about 7k miles ago, it caught much higher then it did prior to clutch failure. And I have to adjust it. I will search it and tackle adjusting it one of these days.
Jan 28, 2009, 05:52 AM
morning all!
The gvr4's 16G has a couple studs snapped on the bolts.. My buddy dropped it off at boston dyno to have them remove the studs, I'm starting to think the guy doesn't know what he's doing cause he had to go out and "buy a set of bits for it" since he snapped his regular set... thus he's charging me 80 extra for it!?
The gvr4's 16G has a couple studs snapped on the bolts.. My buddy dropped it off at boston dyno to have them remove the studs, I'm starting to think the guy doesn't know what he's doing cause he had to go out and "buy a set of bits for it" since he snapped his regular set... thus he's charging me 80 extra for it!?
Jan 28, 2009, 06:16 AM
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Agreed, machine shop is definitely the way to go. The performance shop is just doing what you could do yourself with a drill...(which is a crappy job!) It was $90 to get two broken bolts/studs out of the hotside of the Evo turbo. For the price of a used 16g, you are way over paying. You could even get a brand new Evo III 16g for like $500...
Jan 28, 2009, 06:18 AM
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We went through 8 drill bits and 3 hours of BS drilling out a broken stud when I was installing my first ss exh manifold about 3 years ago. But that is what happens when you start on a friday night
If a bolt/stud in a turbo flange ever breaks on me again in any future repair, I will not attempt it myself. I will pay to have it done by a machine shop. It is a suck job.
Jan 28, 2009, 06:24 AM
The previous owner had the turbo at the shop already and assumed the shop could remove it. I'm starting to think otherwise.