Alaska
Mar 13, 2011, 01:06 PM
#2221
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Depends on his timing...this cold/dry air helps up here even on 90. Not saying its efficient, but our pump is what it is...I'm guessing the 25 psi is a boost spike and tapering off quite a bit on the top end.
Mar 13, 2011, 01:07 PM
#2222
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Anyone interested in a brand new RRE Stealth exhaust? Have one coming up but won't be needing it apparently. I'll let it go for 600 since thats what it cost to build it. I'll be taking the hit on shipping. Just let me know guys. Its stainless steel and powder coated black as well.
Mar 14, 2011, 01:01 AM
#2224
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yea, ill agree with qwik on this one, its not a boost spike, ive got my gizzmo set up to stop a boost spike a mile away man, no way itll happen and overboost if detected is well killed instantly as well. whole car if over boost might feel like its gonna die, idk yet not over boosting lol......timing is running anywhere between 3-9 (advanced timing though evo scan)
im just gonna say the hell with it honestly......if it has retard timing then ill live with it till i have some money for parts i want, install them and buy a tune from mellon, at least they know what there doing. untill then the evo is no longer in a running state and will remain so untill mods are complete and tuned, meets are out for me.........
im just gonna say the hell with it honestly......if it has retard timing then ill live with it till i have some money for parts i want, install them and buy a tune from mellon, at least they know what there doing. untill then the evo is no longer in a running state and will remain so untill mods are complete and tuned, meets are out for me.........
Mar 14, 2011, 09:33 AM
#2225
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yea, ill agree with qwik on this one, its not a boost spike, ive got my gizzmo set up to stop a boost spike a mile away man, no way itll happen and overboost if detected is well killed instantly as well. whole car if over boost might feel like its gonna die, idk yet not over boosting lol......timing is running anywhere between 3-9 (advanced timing though evo scan)
im just gonna say the hell with it honestly......if it has retard timing then ill live with it till i have some money for parts i want, install them and buy a tune from mellon, at least they know what there doing. untill then the evo is no longer in a running state and will remain so untill mods are complete and tuned, meets are out for me.........
im just gonna say the hell with it honestly......if it has retard timing then ill live with it till i have some money for parts i want, install them and buy a tune from mellon, at least they know what there doing. untill then the evo is no longer in a running state and will remain so untill mods are complete and tuned, meets are out for me.........
Mar 14, 2011, 03:44 PM
#2226
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I know what you mean man, and hit me up sometime, you and Qwik both, share the knowledge lol, but i really can't drive it......have a bad seal around the tranny (driver side) that is leaking fluid barely, (I can drive to Seward and back and be ok, didn't know I had it then) but when full it drains a good amount 1/4 a qt and don't wanna risk it.
Mar 14, 2011, 04:59 PM
#2227
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I know what you mean man, and hit me up sometime, you and Qwik both, share the knowledge lol, but i really can't drive it......have a bad seal around the tranny (driver side) that is leaking fluid barely, (I can drive to Seward and back and be ok, didn't know I had it then) but when full it drains a good amount 1/4 a qt and don't wanna risk it.
Mar 14, 2011, 05:35 PM
#2228
I'd figure out a way to get that thing down to stock boost levels until you can get a safe tune on that bad boy.
You need a wideband in order to really complete the tuning cycle. It's nice to know if you're knocking or not, but you need to see your AFR's too.
You need a wideband in order to really complete the tuning cycle. It's nice to know if you're knocking or not, but you need to see your AFR's too.
Mar 15, 2011, 01:11 PM
#2232
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AFR is in the high 14's 14.7-15.3, and depending what im doing obviously, thats normal driving, and ive got the AFR log cable and the USB converter to log just need to install them as well as the ALT map switch
Mar 15, 2011, 10:12 PM
#2234
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AEM, I'm deff thinking about switching to the LC-1 though, heard it's more reliable, easy to tune with and easier to log with then AEM
At the time I bought it i really just wanted something there to give me a heads up if something had been potentially wrong or needed retuned but now that I'm getting further into it and know alot more then what I did I'm starting to regret getting it, com ports won't work for it if it's not in 1-3, 4 is hit an miss others no luck (what I've heard) and LC-1 I've just heard amazing things about and AEM just doesn't seem like a good investment for me anymore,
At the time I bought it i really just wanted something there to give me a heads up if something had been potentially wrong or needed retuned but now that I'm getting further into it and know alot more then what I did I'm starting to regret getting it, com ports won't work for it if it's not in 1-3, 4 is hit an miss others no luck (what I've heard) and LC-1 I've just heard amazing things about and AEM just doesn't seem like a good investment for me anymore,
Last edited by blacksunset; Mar 15, 2011 at 10:16 PM.
Mar 15, 2011, 10:23 PM
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I just re read what you had said lol, but I've never taken my car to red line, I won't do it due to the taper, I don't have a DV yet and want to keep as much as possible (none as of right now) so instead of it tapering and having to build back I'll shift about 1000-1500 lower then redline so it doesn't have to build a whole lot all at once again. Rpms are set to 7600 and I'll shift between 6300-6500
Regardless I'll get taper, no way around it but I think it helps to an extent..