Pad and Rotor recomendations
May 30, 2008, 05:33 PM
#16
i say the stoptech stage two kit is a good choice as you get lines, rotors and pad for a good price talk with worldone about a good price on these, the girodisc is nice as well, thou i think im gonna get a set of the DBA rotors when i change mine out.
May 30, 2008, 11:33 PM
#17
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my god DBA is god!
but it soo expesive... damn.. if i have extra money then ill buy DBA slotted 2 piece rotors..
i belive Collin Red evo 8 have DBA gold on his evo
but it soo expesive... damn.. if i have extra money then ill buy DBA slotted 2 piece rotors..
i belive Collin Red evo 8 have DBA gold on his evo
May 31, 2008, 12:35 AM
#19
Well there are many different reasons. Just to list a few:
1. Most the time turning rotors doesn't do jack unless it small inperfections
2. Most the time its pad deposites not warped rotors
3. Can make the rotor too thin therefore not dissipating heat efficiently in turn it really does warp ruining the rotor.
I would reccomend running the stockers. They are fine for atleast 1-2 sets of pads if the outer lip isn't too pig. Maybe go around with some emry cloth and clean up the rotor before putting new pads on.
1. Most the time turning rotors doesn't do jack unless it small inperfections
2. Most the time its pad deposites not warped rotors
3. Can make the rotor too thin therefore not dissipating heat efficiently in turn it really does warp ruining the rotor.
I would reccomend running the stockers. They are fine for atleast 1-2 sets of pads if the outer lip isn't too pig. Maybe go around with some emry cloth and clean up the rotor before putting new pads on.
May 31, 2008, 12:18 PM
#20
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*NEVER TURN YOUR ROTORS* That is a very bad and common mistake. Centric blanks are good for cheap and can be placed quite often. If you really track I would go for Performance Friction 2pc or Girodisk but they cost alot.
Performance Friction Z rated pads are probably one of the best all around pads. Again they are more for autoX or light lapping. Running anything over street tires I would run PFC01 or something.
Hawks are mediocre pads. For the price you can get much much better.
Ferodo, Performance Friction, Project Mu would probably be the upper choices. If you are really serious about tracking you can get some Raybestos but they eat the rotors.
A good cheap setup would be PFZ pads all around then swap PFC01 for the front. Although different F&R pads isn't ideal buts Evo's braking distrubution can deal with it quite well.
Performance Friction Z rated pads are probably one of the best all around pads. Again they are more for autoX or light lapping. Running anything over street tires I would run PFC01 or something.
Hawks are mediocre pads. For the price you can get much much better.
Ferodo, Performance Friction, Project Mu would probably be the upper choices. If you are really serious about tracking you can get some Raybestos but they eat the rotors.
A good cheap setup would be PFZ pads all around then swap PFC01 for the front. Although different F&R pads isn't ideal buts Evo's braking distrubution can deal with it quite well.
good advice, so thanks for that.....
i did, however, allready turn my rotors in the front only, as i just got them done for free at the local tech school.....we took both the front and back apart and i got learn a bit more about my brakes that way......we then did find that the fronts were a little groovey, so we did those, and the rears seemed fine....
it used to shutter when comming down from tripple digits, but no more.....
i was just trying to get'er done for this monday, where i'm going to do a performance school with the porscha club in portland.....
after that, i think i'd like to get a matched kit (lines, rotors and pads all arround) and then some super blue for the lines
if my car is going to stop like *** now, anybody please free to tell me i'm going to die on monday now so i can at least be forewarned
.
May 31, 2008, 11:54 PM
#22
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I see 7-8 evos out of 10 at the track running very close to stock brakes with few updated components(fluid and pads) And they are quick and they rarely complain.(all DD evos too) Unless your rotors are shot, I really suggest sticking to stock.
I think what's most important is how to manage(or maintain) your brakes then what components you upgrade. I know 2 guys I saw at track running almost stock set up and 1 I heard ran a stock set up for like 7-8 track days and never complained.(only fluid change)
10secivic has a stock everything except HP+ with motul(same as mine) and he is EXTREMELY happy how it brakes.(Myself included)
So that's just my case. I'm sure others had bad experiences with other product and there's other variations that come to play. I'm just stating based on my experiences,and it has been a good one at that.
Good luck
I think what's most important is how to manage(or maintain) your brakes then what components you upgrade. I know 2 guys I saw at track running almost stock set up and 1 I heard ran a stock set up for like 7-8 track days and never complained.(only fluid change)
10secivic has a stock everything except HP+ with motul(same as mine) and he is EXTREMELY happy how it brakes.(Myself included)
So that's just my case. I'm sure others had bad experiences with other product and there's other variations that come to play. I'm just stating based on my experiences,and it has been a good one at that.
Good luck
Jun 1, 2008, 12:46 AM
#23
Basically it comes down to 4 major things:
1. Your driving style and how you modulate the brakes (probably the biggest key factor)
2. How much power you have
3. What type of tire and how wide (ie R compounds with higher friction and wider contact patch are harder on brakes)
4. What track you are running at
Given that can give you a good idea of what you need to do. If you run stockish size street tires you most likely dont need race pads. If you are under 350whp you might be able to get along with out them too if your strait away speed isn't too high. I assume you know how to drive but in an evo brake as hard as you can for the shortest possible time. Don't worry about rotors as they are the least important to upgrade. Pads, fluid, and proper cooling is the most important. Until you have brownbo's and are consistently getting brake fade dont worry about major changes. The braking system on an evo with decent pads is more than enough for 95% of the drivers that think they need bigger.
1. Your driving style and how you modulate the brakes (probably the biggest key factor)
2. How much power you have
3. What type of tire and how wide (ie R compounds with higher friction and wider contact patch are harder on brakes)
4. What track you are running at
Given that can give you a good idea of what you need to do. If you run stockish size street tires you most likely dont need race pads. If you are under 350whp you might be able to get along with out them too if your strait away speed isn't too high. I assume you know how to drive but in an evo brake as hard as you can for the shortest possible time. Don't worry about rotors as they are the least important to upgrade. Pads, fluid, and proper cooling is the most important. Until you have brownbo's and are consistently getting brake fade dont worry about major changes. The braking system on an evo with decent pads is more than enough for 95% of the drivers that think they need bigger.
Jun 3, 2008, 11:51 AM
#25
Not to turn the rotors is actually not good advice. When you change pads you need to resurface the face of the rotors at the very minimum especially if you change brands. When I had the Hawk HP+ pads, they also wore pretty large grooves around the stock rotors, going to a new pad without turning the rotors would give you about 1/2 of your normal surface area.
And a side note on Stock brake setups on the track.....................
BE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU CHANGE YOUR BRAKE FLUID THIS MINOR ISSUE HAS COST ME GREATLY $$$$$$$$$ THE STOCK FLUID IS CRAP, IT BOILS AT MILDLY HIGH TEMPERATURE.
And a side note on Stock brake setups on the track.....................
BE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU CHANGE YOUR BRAKE FLUID THIS MINOR ISSUE HAS COST ME GREATLY $$$$$$$$$ THE STOCK FLUID IS CRAP, IT BOILS AT MILDLY HIGH TEMPERATURE.
Jun 3, 2008, 03:46 PM
#26
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All brake rotors have a minimum thickness stamp on them. You can turn rotors as long as you don't cut them below this minimum thickness. Whenever I change my pads I do a skim cut on my rotors of .001-.003 to pull the deposits off, and to true the rotor. a thousanth or 2 is not going to affect the heat sink properties of the rotor enough to worry about it.
Having a set of rotors cut is CHEAP... like $8 a rotor. However I would not trust anyone to cut my rotors. It's easy to cut many thousanths off a rotor, but more time consuming to cut the minimum. Therefore I have a local parts shop that I throw a few bucks and they let me use their lathe
Read this article on the Stoptech website regarding warped brakes:
warped Rotor article
This was written by Carol Smith. He is a racing engineer that has forgotten more about engineering and automobiles than 99.9% of the people on this forum even know.
Now Carol makes the comment "In more than 40 years of racing, I have never seen a warped rotor" and I am sure that's true in racing, but I have seen them on the street. You can easily tell a warped rotor on a lathe, where the cutting tips alternate inside and ousidet. This is typically because a HOT rotor was unevenly hit with cold water. (common during AZ flood season)
ANYWAYS.. on to recomendations:
I personally am a HUGE fan of porterfield brakes. I've used nearly every combination of pads, and porterfield R4-S is by far my street/autocross/light track day pad of choice. Quick to heat up, very light dusting, rotor friendly, and as quiet as stock. They modulate very easy, and have less green-fade than stock. If I were to do track days, I would use their R4 compound, however they are more aggressive.
Properly bed your new brakes.
Motul 600 Brake Fluid (with regular bleeding, flushing)
Stainless Steel lines (brand of choice)
Slotted Rotors, I have had good results with slotted rotors, some armchair racers say they are a waste. The theory is that the edges give the pad a better bite, and remove the "fireband" boundry layer of gasses. So I like em, but that may be only mental for me.
There you go. Hope that all helps.
Having a set of rotors cut is CHEAP... like $8 a rotor. However I would not trust anyone to cut my rotors. It's easy to cut many thousanths off a rotor, but more time consuming to cut the minimum. Therefore I have a local parts shop that I throw a few bucks and they let me use their lathe
Read this article on the Stoptech website regarding warped brakes:
warped Rotor article
This was written by Carol Smith. He is a racing engineer that has forgotten more about engineering and automobiles than 99.9% of the people on this forum even know.
Now Carol makes the comment "In more than 40 years of racing, I have never seen a warped rotor" and I am sure that's true in racing, but I have seen them on the street. You can easily tell a warped rotor on a lathe, where the cutting tips alternate inside and ousidet. This is typically because a HOT rotor was unevenly hit with cold water. (common during AZ flood season)
ANYWAYS.. on to recomendations:
I personally am a HUGE fan of porterfield brakes. I've used nearly every combination of pads, and porterfield R4-S is by far my street/autocross/light track day pad of choice. Quick to heat up, very light dusting, rotor friendly, and as quiet as stock. They modulate very easy, and have less green-fade than stock. If I were to do track days, I would use their R4 compound, however they are more aggressive.
Properly bed your new brakes.
Motul 600 Brake Fluid (with regular bleeding, flushing)
Stainless Steel lines (brand of choice)
Slotted Rotors, I have had good results with slotted rotors, some armchair racers say they are a waste. The theory is that the edges give the pad a better bite, and remove the "fireband" boundry layer of gasses. So I like em, but that may be only mental for me.
There you go. Hope that all helps.
Jun 4, 2008, 01:11 PM
#27
All brake rotors have a minimum thickness stamp on them. You can turn rotors as long as you don't cut them below this minimum thickness. Whenever I change my pads I do a skim cut on my rotors of .001-.003 to pull the deposits off, and to true the rotor. a thousanth or 2 is not going to affect the heat sink properties of the rotor enough to worry about it.
Having a set of rotors cut is CHEAP... like $8 a rotor. However I would not trust anyone to cut my rotors. It's easy to cut many thousanths off a rotor, but more time consuming to cut the minimum. Therefore I have a local parts shop that I throw a few bucks and they let me use their lathe
Read this article on the Stoptech website regarding warped brakes:
warped Rotor article
This was written by Carol Smith. He is a racing engineer that has forgotten more about engineering and automobiles than 99.9% of the people on this forum even know.
Now Carol makes the comment "In more than 40 years of racing, I have never seen a warped rotor" and I am sure that's true in racing, but I have seen them on the street. You can easily tell a warped rotor on a lathe, where the cutting tips alternate inside and ousidet. This is typically because a HOT rotor was unevenly hit with cold water. (common during AZ flood season)
ANYWAYS.. on to recomendations:
I personally am a HUGE fan of porterfield brakes. I've used nearly every combination of pads, and porterfield R4-S is by far my street/autocross/light track day pad of choice. Quick to heat up, very light dusting, rotor friendly, and as quiet as stock. They modulate very easy, and have less green-fade than stock. If I were to do track days, I would use their R4 compound, however they are more aggressive.
Properly bed your new brakes.
Motul 600 Brake Fluid (with regular bleeding, flushing)
Stainless Steel lines (brand of choice)
Slotted Rotors, I have had good results with slotted rotors, some armchair racers say they are a waste. The theory is that the edges give the pad a better bite, and remove the "fireband" boundry layer of gasses. So I like em, but that may be only mental for me.
There you go. Hope that all helps.
Having a set of rotors cut is CHEAP... like $8 a rotor. However I would not trust anyone to cut my rotors. It's easy to cut many thousanths off a rotor, but more time consuming to cut the minimum. Therefore I have a local parts shop that I throw a few bucks and they let me use their lathe
Read this article on the Stoptech website regarding warped brakes:
warped Rotor article
This was written by Carol Smith. He is a racing engineer that has forgotten more about engineering and automobiles than 99.9% of the people on this forum even know.
Now Carol makes the comment "In more than 40 years of racing, I have never seen a warped rotor" and I am sure that's true in racing, but I have seen them on the street. You can easily tell a warped rotor on a lathe, where the cutting tips alternate inside and ousidet. This is typically because a HOT rotor was unevenly hit with cold water. (common during AZ flood season)
ANYWAYS.. on to recomendations:
I personally am a HUGE fan of porterfield brakes. I've used nearly every combination of pads, and porterfield R4-S is by far my street/autocross/light track day pad of choice. Quick to heat up, very light dusting, rotor friendly, and as quiet as stock. They modulate very easy, and have less green-fade than stock. If I were to do track days, I would use their R4 compound, however they are more aggressive.
Properly bed your new brakes.
Motul 600 Brake Fluid (with regular bleeding, flushing)
Stainless Steel lines (brand of choice)
Slotted Rotors, I have had good results with slotted rotors, some armchair racers say they are a waste. The theory is that the edges give the pad a better bite, and remove the "fireband" boundry layer of gasses. So I like em, but that may be only mental for me.
There you go. Hope that all helps.
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