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Clutch and flywheel opinions by locals.

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Old Apr 2, 2011, 10:29 AM
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I think ACT HD would be your choice given your budget. I had the 6 puck. Hated it. Pedal was really, and I mean really heavy. Oh, and it locks out when you shift over 7k, I was shifting at 8k or so drag racing. But man, if you're going to be building a DD street car, it's ok. How many times are you gonna be taking it out past 7k on the streets?
Old Apr 2, 2011, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by D Grade
I appreciate the help, Ryan. Is the step height similar to a DSM restep height? Isnt it about .610" if I recall right?
http://www.teamrip.com/flywheel_step_height_info.html

The ideal step height for most performance clutches that are available for the DSM is .608" to .610" Do not attempt to use a step height greater than .612" for this will cause the pressure plate's spring plate geometry to be less than ideal. Flywheel step height is critical and a couple thousandths can have a drastic affect on the spring plate geometry and how the clutch works. (More about spring plate geometry) If the flywheel step height is machined deeper than .612" the end result will be a clutch pedal that feels mushy & vague, as if there is air in the hydraulic circuit, and the pedal pressure will be heavy and not have that breakaway point where pedal pressure becomes less as the clutch pedal nears the floor.

Simply put, if the spring plate geometry is fuct up because the flywheel step height is not correct the clutch won't work as good as it should and you'll tear up your synchronizers, so get that flywheel machined correctly. Far too many times people are such a hurry that they end up not machining the flywheel, only too end up with a clutch that doesn't perform as good as it could have and end up tearing up the synchronizers in their transmission.

Rule of thumb: Any time that you replace the clutch disc and/or pressure plate you need to have your flywheel resurfaced. The clutch will hold more torque when the flywheel is flat and this will help eliminate chatter during engagement. Ask the machine shop questions and have them measure it right in front of you to make sure it's done correctly. If you are considering an aftermarket flywheel I highly recommend purchasing a Chromalloy flywheel, especially if the vehicle is AWD.... and make sure the flywheel step height is machined to the specifications listed above.
Old Apr 2, 2011, 10:49 AM
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For the money I like my Fidanza ceramic 6 puck and turned stock flywheel combo. No lock out issues like the ACT's. My only gripe is that it can be a bit jumpy on low speed engagement, but for half the price of a twin disc, I'll deal with it.
Old Apr 2, 2011, 11:43 AM
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Yeah, I was considering a Fidanza and Exedy single as well. I just want something slippable for drag racing that can hold up. I know the ACT can take slipping which is a plus, its just the lock out. I guess that may be the deciding factor since I dont plan on reving past 7500rpms.

Daniel, the Edexy twin is ideal for you since you're a straight line/high HP guy. Im more partial to tracking now so I can settle for a single.
Old Apr 2, 2011, 12:10 PM
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FWIW, Joey B hasnt had any lockout issues with his ACT HDSS.

Also, i'm running 352 whp/310 wtq and am going with the HDSS. The Twin is too loud, requires more revs and is too stiff for DD duties.

I saved a few $$$ from FORESAKEN's price breakdown by going with the Grouppe S flywheel which has the same weight/specs as the ACT streetlight, but was only $150 shipped.
Old Apr 2, 2011, 12:14 PM
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Wow, thats a steal! Chromoly I take it?
Old Apr 2, 2011, 12:23 PM
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Sorry for the newby question but what do u guys mean by lock out?
Old Apr 2, 2011, 12:24 PM
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I'm probably going to go for the hdss myself....
Old Apr 2, 2011, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by *.jdmevo8.*
Sorry for the newby question but what do u guys mean by lock out?
It means it won't let you shift gears, feels like there is something blocking you from putting the shifter in the next gear until the rpms drop.
Old Apr 2, 2011, 12:26 PM
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^this
Old Apr 2, 2011, 12:31 PM
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Is that bad for the clutch?
Old Apr 2, 2011, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by D Grade
Wow, thats a steal! Chromoly I take it?
Si senior. Generally you dont find aluminium flywheels in the 15lb range unless they tack on some lead for fun.


Originally Posted by *.jdmevo8.*
Sorry for the newby question but what do u guys mean by lock out?
"i've talked to Daryl Sampson the Sales & Marketing Manager at ACT and here are some of his thoughts about high rpm lock out...

"Now about lock out. Lock out occurs when there isn't enough air gap between the disc pressure plate and the flywheel to allow the clutch to disengage at high rpm. The reason the above occurs are as follows: bent disc (hanging the transmission off the input shaft - install error, warped pressure plate, or flywheel - excessive heat - driver error as a result of slipping the clutch too much and a mis-adjusted or not even adjusted clutch - user/installer error."

other thoughts from Daryl...

"For as long as I've been in this industry people seldom admit that they are beating the hell out of a part and caused it to fail, mechanics seldom admit that they have no clue about what they are doing but will instead hide behind ASE certifications etc. and their are two sides to every story. We've been in business for 15 years, making a clutch for a Evo is not that much different than making a clutch for a STI or a RX7 or a Honda in pricinple. In fact the unit in the STI is the same size and very similar in design to the Evo and we don't hear of these issues on those cars."

"The Evo is one of our most popular kits, that's not by accident. Neither is the fact that we are an industry leader in the market. That only happens by hard work, and the dedication to not only make and design the best parts but also the dedication to stand behind them. I'm sure if you ask most of the people in the thread if they took the time to send the parts in to ACT to have the parts looked at by us, called us or taken their car to a reputable Evo shop to have it adjusted most will tell you no."

"The front motor mount helps a great deal with helping with engine movement and mis shifts which people also confuse with lockout, but since the cause of lock out has nothing to do with engine movement that in itself will not correct the problem."

"So to avoid lock out:

Have a qualified (read Evo specialist) install your clutch.

Have it adjusted via the threaded rod if it it's required. There are write ups in the how to section.

Know how to launch your car. By doing that part right you will avoid heating up the parts and causing lock out."

I'm sure of all people this guy knows.... "

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-clutches.html
Old Apr 2, 2011, 03:15 PM
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I got ACT extreme kit. MB7-XTSS
Torque Capacity=567, Clamp Load Increase (%)=0.57
Gruppe-s flywheel 15lbs
Never had any problems. This I would recommend, plus the price is right. ($689.00) Just my $0.02

Last edited by idrink_v8; Apr 2, 2011 at 03:22 PM.
Old Aug 27, 2011, 07:21 AM
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Anyone use the 2600 on the Evo? I'm getting my tabby done by Jacks in Oct, and that's the one they recommended. No lockout issues they say, 4 puck unsprung.
Old Aug 27, 2011, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ravnos04
Anyone use the 2600 on the Evo? I'm getting my tabby done by Jacks in Oct, and that's the one they recommended. No lockout issues they say, 4 puck unsprung.
Tranny*


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