Hey guys, hopefully you can read the dyno sheet as STM was running low on ink on their printer at the time. I'm still chasing an exhaust leak on the RRM Exhaust headers before I do another dyno tuning session but the car is definitely quite a bit faster and is starting to breathe. Once it hits 4000 RPM the car pulls stronger and stronger until 5500 and suits the CVT well. Still you can see that the CVT really saps the power out of the engine before reaching your wheels, the fact that it keeps it at the best torque range when going WOT is the only thing that saves it.

Mods:

• K&N Panel Airfilter (same part # that fits the Evo X airbox)
• 4" cold air intake tubing leading to stock airbox

Basic Tune as follows:

• 3-4* more timing advance with smoother progression
• Mivec map adjustments
• AFR's leaned out about 1 full point on average at WOT
• Stock was 12.5 AFR richening up to 10.8 AFR past 4500
• Tuned was 13.3 AFR richening up to 12.6 AFR past 4500

The peak numbers shown here are 109 whp vs 103 whp but the difference of power under the curve is what makes the car faster throughout the entire RPM range. You'll notice the largest difference is closer to 10 whp and on the STM Mustang dyno that is significant since it reads about 30% lower than crank HP figures when in AWD mode. The CVT is also eating up an extra 12-14% horsepower on top of that which is why the numbers are low, still we are looking at before & after changes to determine the gains, the dyno is just a tool.

For the tests I ran the car in 3rd gear from 2000 to 6000 RPM in 4wd lock mode with ASC off. In this mode it's going to be worst case scenario for driveline losses so acceleration on the street is indeed a bit better in 4WD auto or 2WD mode.

I'll report back as soon as I dyno the car with the RRM headers. As a side test I intend to detach the exhaust just before the muffler for a run to see how less back pressure effects the dyno numbers. If that looks promising I'll probably test detaching the exhaust after the cat and then before the cat to see where running too little exhaust pressure is counter-productive.

I still need to try and get rid of that slight lean spike at 4200-4300 RPM, seems no matter what I did to the tables changing 4000 rpm and 4500 rpm fuel values couldn't eliminate it. There is still some tuning to be done in the Mivec tables but I didn't want to get too crazy until the exhaust headers were installed. These NA engines are quite a bit trickier to extract horsepower compared to the Evo X that belted out 450 whp with a big turbo but it's a good challenge and learning experience.

About the STM Dyno:
Stock Evolution X MR (291 Crank HP) = 225 whp (~30% losses in AWD with SST transmission)
Stock Outlander Sport (148 Crank HP) = 103 whp (~44% losses in AWD with CVT transmission)

10 whp = 14 crank HP on the Outlander Sport due to driveline losses (ouch!)

 

Reserved for Dyno Run with RRM Headers/RRM pulley and exhaust backpressure testing with updated tune.

Mods:

• K&N Panel Airfilter (same part # that fits the Evo X airbox)
• 4" cold air intake tubing leading to stock airbox
• RRM Aluminum Crank Pully (saves 3.5 lbs off rotating mass)
• RRM Exhaust Headers (shifted powerband higher but 4000-6000 is quite a bit stronger)

 

Good comparison! If you can, I think itd be beneficial to all base lancer owners to see what the realistic power gains are with certain mods. Good work nonetheless!

 

Right now the car has improved from ~ 9.0 second 0-60 times to around 7.9 second 0-60 times according to EvoScan data logs before and after all the changes. Based on the dyno numbers and power:weight ratios that should put the engine at 175-180 crank HP compared to the 148 crank HP stock output. For sure the CVT is consuming quite a bit but there is not much that can be done. I would like to get the car to around 200 crank HP where it should yield around 7.0 sec 0-60 times beating out most Crossover SUV's in it's class. While not mind bending, it would be about the same speed as a 1995-1999 Eclipse GSX from the factory.

What I've done so far:

• K&N Panel Airfilter (same part # that fits the Evo X airbox)
• 4" cold air intake tubing (leading to stock airbox)
• RRM Aluminum Crank Pully (saves 3.5 lbs off rotating mass)
• RRM Exhaust Headers (shifted powerband higher but 4000-6000 is quite a bit stronger)

Possible future upgrades:

• Larger Throttlebody (60-65mm diameter)
• Larger Diameter TB to Airbox piping (2.5"-2.75" will work, need to adjust tune for sure)
• Higher Flow Exhaust (increase flow throughout system but making sure backpressure is still enough to prevent loss of torque, tune for scavenging effect)
• High Flow Cat (I intend on testing if detaching the exhaust at various points shows where too little backpressure is counterproductive)
• Fuel Injectors (not sure of stock capacity, but Evo X injectors are readily available and would be plenty)
• Fuel Pump (not sure of stock capacity, will have to see if rewire is enough or if a higher flow unit from another model car could be swapped in)
• Cams (Not sure if 4b12 or 4b11t cams are worth testing or if there are any more aggressive NA cams suitable)
• Ported Head (May make sense if head is pulled for cams, otherwise cost is high per HP gained)

Weight Loss items:

• Spare Tire/tools (This removes about 50 lbs)
• Lightweight Battery (This can save 25 lbs, won't work with high powered stereos)
• Lightweight Wheels (Stock are 25 lbs each, can save 5 lbs rotating mass per corner with 20 lbs wheels)
• Lightweight Hood (Stock hood is very heavy, Carbon Fiber hood may shed 30-40 lbs)
• Aluminum Driveshaft (Drops ~15 lbs from rotating assembly, might not matter in 2WD or 4WD auto mode, costs are high as well)

As modding goes, costs are now going to increase to get more Horsepower out of a Normally aspirated setup and I need to keep this as daily driver friendly as possible. I think the basics that I've done so far were well worth the effort though.

RRM has already shown that you can reach the 250-300 crank HP level with a turbo kit on the 5 speed model, but the CVT is what is holding back the Outlander Sport SE. Still the 4wd is really nice on this car for slippery roads and until they come up with a way to upgrade it's capacity we are stuck with it's limitations. We will see how far I can get this car without a turbo and keeping costs reasonable for the amount of real world gains. The real solution is that Mitsubish releases a Ralliart version of the Outlander Sport with 4wd or AWD!

 

Awesome work, Thanks for the great information

 

Awesome write up: thanks for your r and d and keep us posted!

 

Hey guys I just picked up a 2011 outlander sport and I just noticed the rear cargo cover is missing so I call the dealer and tell them wth and they say it doesn't come with it. Is this true? Did your outlanders come with it?

 

this is a very nice write up. i hope to see more results because i own a SE. However, they(the tuners) need to put the cvt through its paces so that we can see how much power that it can really handle. i refuse to believe that those paddle shifters are sitting there for decoration....lol.

 

Cargo covers seem to be an extra add on, they like selling the accessories seperate.

As for testing, I've been hammering on my Outlander Sport with the intention of putting it through it's paces with what I would call "brisk" driving. Granted I don't datalog every time I drive it but I spot check once a week to verify all is well and that there is still zero knock. I'll be able to dial in the Cruise MPG tuning and then do the final dyno tune over the next few weeks.

 

not necessarily the right thread here bud, lol

Nice. Can't wait for the results. Hopefully tuning will be cheap for these cars seeing as they only pick up a small amount of horsepower, and also have such a limited market

 

I don't see how tuning will be cheaper than any other car considering it still takes the same amount of time to dial in the Mivec, AFR, timing and other values that will make the most safe horsepower. While there is no turbo boost to dial in, just getting consistant gains from the tuning alone is difficult to say the least on a small displacement normally aspirated engine without swapping internal parts.

When the car is stock there really isn't a ton of things to adjust as the factory already did a decent job of getting what power they could. Once you start modifying the engine to breathe better you will see better gains when the car is tuned for the modifications.

Considering a Timing Controller is usually $350 that bumps timing 3-4* when using higher octane fuel, you can't really expect anyone to do a full ECU tune for less than around $300 considering the time investment to get it all dialed in for maximum safe gains. Just trying to set realistic expectations out there.

 

yeah, i know, $300 is just a lot for such small gains :-(

I did install my K&N drop in yesterday, made a slight, but noticeable difference. Thinking of the pulley next. How is the "bang for your buck" on that one?

 

Also, can u post up some pics of the intake tubing? just curious what you really did there.

Thanks

 

Well if you look at the gains as a percentage it feels better, the problem is that the numbers start so low that it doesn't look like much.

Definitely the pulley helped but the exhaust headers are a big change. I still need to talk with RRM about the fitment and exhaust leak issues. Basically since the headers were made with the lancer in mind they didn't plan for the flange to interfere with the driveshaft leading to the rear wheels. The leaks seem to come from the factory style flex flange which always leaked a bit from the factory even, especially from a cold start. I may just have to put weld a flex section in there and be done with the leaks.

I'll take some pictures of the intake tubine, it's fairly basic.

 

I really appreciate the extra help. Any retuning reequired with the headers instalation? Like due to any O2 sensors or anything? Also, how difficult was the install. Maybe headers and a pulley will keep me happy for now.