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Not a suspension expert but I read that sway bar preload is highly undesirable that why want to be conservative.
Any Suspension experts in the care to weigh in?
you are probably right about the preload, which is why my 1st set of chopped adjustables started clunking after 1 week... I suspected heim joint binding, but my mechanic was still concerned about the control arm clearance. I've seen a 4" lift kit for the jeep patriot/1st gen compass (same platform as us) that includes a sway bar relocation kit, but I've never seen the parts offered individually. Subframe spacers would be ideal too, to get some cv angle back, but I haven't I haven't done outlander sport suspension research in awhile.
Just added a Steel Skid Plate / Engine\trans lower cover. I had to weld up some custom SS T Bolts as the hardware supplied was crap. Here is what I purchased. AliExpress I was asked for some actual pictures on the install on my outlander by gn02156668 so here they are! Not installed Under the Front End Photo Installed Under the Front End Photo. Covering the Engine and Transmission. You can see the front bolts (attaches by (2) in the back as well) in this picture. The Skid Plate is Aluminum. Its about 5-7 lbs and 3mm thick or 1/8". While its not as stout as steel it does offer protection.
Last edited by ASX_Billy; Mar 13, 2024 at 06:21 AM.
Just added a Steel Skid Plate / Engine\trans lower cover. I had to weld up some custom SS T Bolts as the hardware supplied was crap. Here is what I purchased. AliExpress
hello there ,
You have a very nice ASX. May i ask if you know the skid plate would fit a 2016 Outlander sport in Canada ?
Thank you for the quick response , really appreciate that.
In terms of the bolt , do i just go and replace then with stainless steel. Do the holes on the plate align with the subframe on the chassis ?
So far you like the quality of the skid plate ? Do you have any actual picture of the plate that you have please as the seller pictures look quite different from my subframe.
My apology for so many questions
Thanks
Last edited by gn02156668; Jun 10, 2023 at 07:52 PM.
First of all, thank you ASX_Billy for this entire thread. There is a ton of great information, as I may be going down a similar track with my 2020 OS.
Based on the information on the end links, and the fact that I will be doing the Anderson Design 1.5" spacer, in addition to the H&R lift springs... Looks like the KLC140-235 would be my best bet. I'm going to be looking at ~2.5 - 2.8" of lift, so will definitely need a better end link that can be adjusted to eliminate preload. I know Anderson Design includes an adapter to connect the end link to the factory location on the OS, but the adjustment on the Whiteline links looks like the best option as long as they are not adjusted all the way in... which appears to be the issue you had with the KLC163 making the clunking noise.
Worst case...I get them, they don't work, and I get a different size.
Last edited by drlloyd76; Nov 24, 2023 at 11:30 AM.
The clunking noise in first gear was with the factory end links. The white line ones are yet to be tested. I actually was going to swap them out this week but we had a rash of really cold weather. It's no fun working in the cold!
The clunking noise in first gear was with the factory end links. The white line ones are yet to be tested. I actually was going to swap them out this week but we had a rash of really cold weather. It's no fun working in the cold!
I understand that completely... If it gets below 50°F I'm probably in thermals
I just finished my lift, which consisted of the 1.5" Anderson kit and the H&R lift springs. I was able to use the Whiteline KLC140-235...and they were perfect. The Anderson kit includes a bracket to attach to the OEM sway bar mounting hole, and then extends up to allow you to connect the OEM sway bar link if you decide to use that. I did not have to use the bracket due to using the shorter sway bar link. From original measurements of the top or the tire to the bottom lip of the fender well I'm right at 3" of lift just for reference. On the links, I brought them in as far as they would go, and then installed the links with no tension. I then turned the turnbuckle 5 complete turns on both sides to get what looks to be perfect clearance for my setup. After setting it back on the ground and torqueing everything again, I have had no issues whatsoever. Time will tell, but so far so good.
As for the KLC140-255, I would have probably had to use the bracket that was included with the Anderson kit, or just had them adjusted all the way in to use them without the bracket. Right now with the KLC-235 I have about 4 threads showing on top and bottom, which still gives me a little room for adjustment in either direction.
Just looking at my rear sway bar link.... it definitely looks like it will need to be swapped out as well. I measured 3.25" (82.55 mm... could be an even 83 mm it was measured with a tape measure) center to center on the OEM link. Looks like it is stressed pretty good with the lift, so will look for a Whiteline replacement.. probably something just a hair longer will resolve this.
Left Rear (3.25") 82.55 mm - roughly measured... could be 83 mm
Right Rear (3.25") 82.55 mm - roughly measured... could be 83 mm
Just curious if you have run into this same issue. I really am going to have to do a build post ... there is always "just one more thing to buy"
Looks like they have a 90-115 mm (KLC140-090) which might work, and a 60 - 80 mm which would be too short. If they had an 80 - 100mm I would buy it right now, but will keep looking... or may call them to see if there are any other options. I'm trying to stay with Whiteline, as they are super easy to adjust, and I have had great luck with them on multiple vehicles.
Last edited by drlloyd76; Dec 15, 2023 at 01:02 PM.
@drlloyd76 looks like it turned out really nice. Let me know how your CV axles hold up. Any pictures of the car before and after indicating the lift amount?
Yeah I'm sure I will find the next weakest point, but will keep you posted for sure. Having wheels and tires put on today, so I'll post a picture after they are installed. Going from an 235/55-18 with a +38 mm offset to a 245/65-17 with a +35 mm offset. Should be a close fit with minimal... Hopefully no rubbing 🤞
This is before and after with the original rims and tires. Measurements were right at 3" of increased height from the top of the tire to the bottom lip of the fender front and back.
With 245/65-17... will need to do a minimal amount of trimming as it does rub on full lock in either direction (could probably let it resolve itself)...but for this look... I'll make it work. Normal driving, no issues whatsoever. These are Falken Wildpeak AT3 with Konig Hypergram wheels. I tried to keep the weight of the wheel/tire combination similar to stock due to the 2.0L in the OS. I am around 3 lbs heavier than stock which responds identical to the 235/55-18 that was on there before. Honestly, these tires are extremely quiet for how aggressive they are, and will be great once we get them on the trails. Can't wait to get it dirty.
Mar 17, 2022, 12:10 PM
) center to center on the OEM link. Looks like it is stressed pretty good with the lift, so will look for a Whiteline replacement.. probably something just a hair longer will resolve this.
... there is always "just one more thing to buy"
