For the electrically-smart people...Wiring gauges
#1
For the electrically-smart people...Wiring gauges
So right now I have the illumination for a mechanical boost gauge and electrical oil temp gauge with an add-a-fuse tapped into the gauge cluster fuse in the interior fuse panel (i believe it's fuse #2, whatever it is down there it's the correct one currently)
I just hooked up the electric gauge senders this weekend and would like to wire both electric gauges to power on with the gauge cluster (which fuse #2 will do, so i know that and i know that will work. they don't need constant power so this works well
what i'm trying to do is wire the illumination for the gauges off of the headlights. ideally this would be through a piggyback fuse, but that (as i read more and more) seems like it might not work, sadly. i know i can tap into the cigarette wire and accomplish this, but i'm trying to not have wires running everywhere in the car
so, if anyone here knows if there is a fuse i can tap into that only receives power when the running lights or head lights are on that would be awesome, otherwise i may unfortunately be tapping off the cigarette
I just hooked up the electric gauge senders this weekend and would like to wire both electric gauges to power on with the gauge cluster (which fuse #2 will do, so i know that and i know that will work. they don't need constant power so this works well
what i'm trying to do is wire the illumination for the gauges off of the headlights. ideally this would be through a piggyback fuse, but that (as i read more and more) seems like it might not work, sadly. i know i can tap into the cigarette wire and accomplish this, but i'm trying to not have wires running everywhere in the car
so, if anyone here knows if there is a fuse i can tap into that only receives power when the running lights or head lights are on that would be awesome, otherwise i may unfortunately be tapping off the cigarette
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#4
Evolving Member
Tap into the hot side of the dimmer switch between the switch and the lights in your cluster. That will work.
Probably best to put a small fuse in between just in case.
Probably best to put a small fuse in between just in case.
#6
Still trying to decide where I want to illuminate from.
The dimming, while nice to have, isn't a necessary thing for me. I just want the gauges to be illuminated when the running/headlights are on so I think I'll end up tapping off the cigarette lighter ring
Got all the power hooked up so they're working now, just need to do illumination sometime later
The dimming, while nice to have, isn't a necessary thing for me. I just want the gauges to be illuminated when the running/headlights are on so I think I'll end up tapping off the cigarette lighter ring
Got all the power hooked up so they're working now, just need to do illumination sometime later
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#8
Evolving Member
i would run it off the headlight fuse. You could draw it from the clock but the clock only has very little ampers going to it (milli amps) and may not be enough to power it. or it might casue an inconstancy, Use the head lights or you can wire one up your self... it's only 4 wires, but it would be easier to go through the head lights or even the illumination on the radio, the radio uses a 12V supply drawing from the car battery and is illumintaed through the wiring harness so just tap straight in to there. I would see how many milliamps the gauges require, and i would check how much power (Voltage they draw) so use Ohm's law to see how many ohms they require may need to step up or step down etc... so use ohms law to help you out, when you have limited info.
#9
i would run it off the headlight fuse. You could draw it from the clock but the clock only has very little ampers going to it (milli amps) and may not be enough to power it. or it might casue an inconstancy, Use the head lights or you can wire one up your self... it's only 4 wires, but it would be easier to go through the head lights or even the illumination on the radio, the radio uses a 12V supply drawing from the car battery and is illumintaed through the wiring harness so just tap straight in to there. I would see how many milliamps the gauges require, and i would check how much power (Voltage they draw) so use Ohm's law to see how many ohms they require may need to step up or step down etc... so use ohms law to help you out, when you have limited info.
#11
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If you hadn't already started, I'd say go the method I went with mine. Add-A-Circuits (fuse replacement with 2 fuse recepticle, one to power original circuit, other for the added circuit). I tapped one off of the cigarette lighter fuse (switched power) and the other off of the door lock fuse (constant power). Ground is pretty obvious, but there was a factory ground near the foot rest, if I remember correctly.
The beauty of my method is, it isn't permanent, no splices, no cuts. Easy to remove or change if I want.
The beauty of my method is, it isn't permanent, no splices, no cuts. Easy to remove or change if I want.
#12
I don't have programmable gauges so I don't need constant power, the only thing I'm looking for is switched power with ignition (which I have via one add-a-fuse) and switched power with headlights (for illuminating the gauges). right now it seems that tapping into the clock or cigarette lighter is where i'm going to end up for illumination
but i agree, add-a-fuse are awesome, as is that ground location (same one I'm using)
but i agree, add-a-fuse are awesome, as is that ground location (same one I'm using)
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