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Originally Posted by ix_wagone
The IX has boost limit when the car is cold to around 10psi and it is gradually increasing until you get to normal operating temp. My IX is a Jap spec and gets to full boost 22-23psi (on a crap autoguage) at around 2700-3000RPM. The best way to see what the boost is doing is to go on the highway at 4th or 5th (in a 6spd car) and to put the foot down from 2000RPM and see how the boost builds up. as for the filter, I doubt anyone could feel the difference between a stock to high performance filter when driving the car, as it is at the most about 2-3HP. Usually the only difference is that the intake is louder and the car sounds faster. The weather will have a far more noticeable effect on the car's performance than an air filter.
You will also find that at around 5500RPM the boost starts to drop and it gets down to 13-14spi at 7500RPM this is built in to the ECU boost table so that the car does not pass the spec 289FWHP. I have installed a boost controller and set it to factory boost and the boost holds up longer at 23 and only goes down to 19psi at 7500RPM, now that is noticeable!!! Just a word of caution, if you want to do that stick to a reputable electronic boost controller (eg, GReddy PRofec B-spec 2) NB. Why did you oil a new K&N filter in the first place? You only need to do it after a clean which is at 50,000mi. I don't know too much about boost controllers, never used one. I always knew the boost dropped in the higher RPM's, but never knew it dropped that much, that's ridiculous. I would like to get a boost controller for the purpose that you are using it for. |
"You will also find that at around 5500RPM the boost starts to drop and it gets down to 13-14spi at 7500RPM this is built in to the ECU boost table so that the car does not pass the spec 289FWHP".....
just noticed how low that boost number is- shouldnt be that low--->13-14 psi is less than 1 bar... you sure it was that low before your ebc? where does it taper now with your ebc set on 23? you have a flash or ecu upgrade? |
Electronic Boost controller is a very simple device to install, it has 2 parts. First is the controller which has a manifold pressure line, ignition connector for power and a solenoid wiring harness with a long cable. The second part is the solenoid valve which has 2 pneumatic ports and the plug to the controller unit. The only tricky bit is to figure out the turbo and wastegate lines as these work slightly different to the stock setup. As long as you follow the diagram in the instructions you will be fine. In the factory setup the turbo is connected directly to the wastegate and the solenoid is used to release the boost pressure off the wastegate to the atmo (inlet after MAF). In the aftermarket the solenoid is between the turbo and the wastegate and it controls directly how much pressure goes to the wastegate. The biggest job in the installation is to get the cables from the cabin to the engine close to the turbo and then where to fit the solenoid.
As for the redline boost, I also did not believe it goes down that low and it did not really make sense that the turbo cannot pump more than just 13psi without being limited by the ECU. But after the boost controller installation the needle did not get below 19psi. |
I spoke with Oliver at Works yesterday about a brain p2 flash and he told me that the peak boost spike should be no later than 3700 rpm. He said that if mine isnt spiking until 4500 or 5000 that there is definately something wrong, even tho the dealership couldnt detect anything... He suggested having my spark plugs checked or replaced to see if that might be it... I might try that after I re-clean the MAF sensor.... my problems started by putting in the K&N filter without drying it out first, so it sounds like there might still be some residue on the sensor. If it is a delay in timing that would be corrected with the flash apparently. So, I'll try cleaning it and go from there.... Does 3700 sound right to all of you? I'm referring to the rpm where the boost initially spikes the highest point before it tapers... does that sound right to anybody else?
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Originally Posted by DJ Brett B
I spoke with Oliver at Works yesterday about a brain p2 flash and he told me that the peak boost spike should be no later than 3700 rpm. He said that if mine isnt spiking until 4500 or 5000 that there is definately something wrong, even tho the dealership couldnt detect anything... He suggested having my spark plugs checked or replaced to see if that might be it... I might try that after I re-clean the MAF sensor.... my problems started by putting in the K&N filter without drying it out first, so it sounds like there might still be some residue on the sensor. If it is a delay in timing that would be corrected with the flash apparently. So, I'll try cleaning it and go from there.... Does 3700 sound right to all of you? I'm referring to the rpm where the boost initially spikes the highest point before it tapers... does that sound right to anybody else?
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Not exactly sure how it effects boost, but from what I understand that if the MAF has K&N filter oil on it, it may not work properly. If it doesnt work properly it may cut power... dont know if it effects boost, but isnt boost to controlled thru the ECU? Anyways, after I cleaned it now its boosting normally again. I'm not really the person to answer your question properly, I've just read posts on here from people who have experienced similar problems after installing an oily K&N and the CRC cleaner worked for most of them, including myself. Now I'm curious how and if it can effect boost....
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boosts hits max @ 3700 on 2 gear pull
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just put on my drop in k&n filter last night and drove it for a while then my service engine light came on,any clue why?could it be the filter?
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Originally Posted by eponti
just put on my drop in k&n filter last night and drove it for a while then my service engine light came on,any clue why?could it be the filter?
DJ Brett B, Are you using the stock gauge? I had them in my old evo and they were not very accurate. Is that your source of checking you boost levels? |
i hit full boost at about 3200 rpm, mods in sig
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hitting full boost at what rpm is largely dependent on what gear u were in when u made the pull...so i think it' simportant to specify what gear u're in when u hit full boost.
my stock 5spd IX in 3rd is around 3300-3500rpm. then it tapes like a mofo around 5500rpm. this is done with around 65 degrees temp outside on the highway... |
found the answer
Sorry I never followed it up on here,and that was a long time ago, but after a couple weeks of being pissed off I finally figured out what was causing my boost to drop off...
apparently the snorkel that feeds into the intake box was missing the 2 snap-in screws holding it down... since it pulls air through it like a vacuum it is possible, especially at WOT for it to actually suction-cup itself to the bottom of the hood if those screws arent there holding it down- the second it suction cups itself boost drops off as a safety measure I guess-- |
I think it spools at around 3,500rpm. Thats where I feel like I am getting the first big push anyway... sorry if this doesn't help much :(
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Bro that is the EXACT thing I got from the K&N untuned. I noticed a longer spool time. I was told it doesn't need a tune for a drop-in so I just figured it was in my head. I am going to replace the stock filter today and see if it runs better until my TUrbotrix appointment this Wednesday.
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Originally Posted by DJ Brett B
apparently the snorkel that feeds into the intake box was missing the 2 snap-in screws holding it down... since it pulls air through it like a vacuum it is possible, especially at WOT for it to actually suction-cup itself to the bottom of the hood if those screws arent there holding it down- the second it suction cups itself boost drops off as a safety measure I guess--
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